• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

cylinder liner change

mudmonkey

mudmonkey

Husqvarna
AA Class
has anyone experience of changing cylinder liners please ?

stand in the oven, heat up gradually & wait for the outer ally casting to drop down ?

while the outer is still hot drop the frozen liner in place ?

bikes are 400 lc & 430 a/c
 
I would freeze the liner and heat the casting to 300 degrees. But first put a scribed line on the casting and liner exactly where you need the liner to line up in the casting. I would put a scribed line in the middle of the intake port. The scribed line goes on top of the casting and sleeve. Be prepared to clamp the liner into the casting. I seen sweated parts move as they cool down.
 
You going to tackle the porting yourself?.be careful not to scratch/damage the top of the sleeve thats your seal surface for the head.if youve got a ported cylinder have the shop install the sleeve as some shops install the sleeve shadow mark the ports and remove the sleeve to carry out the majority of the porting then re install and finnish off transitions.
 
A pencil line would be better. Once the sleeve is in and room temps you need to clean up the ports in the sleeve to the casting.
 
Here's my process,

First remove the old sleeve.
Clean and deburr the cylinder casing.
Clean and deburr the new sleeve.
You need a guide line to go by as the sleeve drops into the casing. Pencil mark the outside of the sleeve and the top of the casing.
Heat the casing to 300 degrees.
Dry ice the sleeve over night.
Start the assembly going by the line on the sleeve to the mark on the casing. Start it and assemble it quick.
Check the line up mark and the line up on the ports. Move quickly.
I would have two clamps and two 2x4 to clamp the liner inplace. I seen sweated parts move out as they cool.
 
I recently did this for the 1st time. I left it in the 250 deg oven for 45 minutes. Taped it out with a wood block. Same for install. No freezing or ice.
 
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