• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Crank thread to make puller?

stormer254

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi ,I have finally got round to making a a crank puller for reassembling an engine, I am trying ti find out the thread of the drive side crank nut, my bikes are autos, can anyone enlighten me please?
 
Steve, the drive side is M14x1.00 std right hand thread.
The flywheel side is M12x1.00 left hand thread.

You are welcome to borrow my crankcase tool if you need it.
 
I use PVC pipe, cut at lengths, with a washer.

1. It flexes if something is wrong or miss aligned.

2. Pvc pipe will break before threads strip or threaded end of crank snaps off.
Also, if cases get mis aligned as your pulling them together. PVC pipe flexes or will crack if something isn't correct.
3. Easy to make and cheap.
4. Not sure but I have done heck of a lot of motorcycle engines this way.
5. Also make good seal drivers for forks/bushings. Even use PVC pipe in my press, to press the lower steering stem bearings on the triple clamp.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/06-wr125-redo-done.15016/page-8
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    131.1 KB · Views: 67
I use PVC pipe, cut at lengths, with a washer.

1. It flexes if something is wrong or miss aligned.

2. Pvc pipe will break before threads strip or threaded end of crank snaps off.
Also, if cases get mis aligned as your pulling them together. PVC pipe flexes or will crack if something isn't correct.
3. Easy to make and cheap.
4. Not sure but I have done heck of a lot of motorcycle engines this way.
5. Also make good seal drivers for forks/bushings. Even use PVC pipe in my press, to press the lower steering stem bearings on the triple clamp.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/06-wr125-redo-done.15016/page-8
:notworthy: The simplest ideas are always the best. Looks like I dont't need to make a puller, I have made the splitter so I am rapidly running out of excuses not to start re building, I will get a few nuts for the pulling part though as I might damage the
special nut.
 
Rewind the 'I will get a few nuts' they seem to be unobtainable, I can't even find a tap let alone nuts!!
 
I looked at buying taps to make my own Steve. The cost of the taps alone nearly outweighed buying one already done.
The hardest part is finding the 12x1.00 left hand tap. Not even Tracey Tools had one.

I am sure you must have some genuine crank nuts in the workshop. Why not use those.
 
On any puller / assembly tool remember to apply anti seeze to the tools threads. if we don't the threads can gall.

I had extra crankshaft nuts that I welded to a piece of threaded rod I bored out for the stud clearance. I used a TIG welder. then I turned down the hex to the size of the weld so the puller threaded rod could fit inside the pipe spacer.

Using PVC as a spacer is a good idea. I never thought of that.
 
Just looked at that link Steve. I didn't see a 12x1.00 left hand tap. Or have you just bought the last one ?
 
I found a picture of what I made. I believe it is set up for the nut on the ignition side and the aluminum blocks in the picture would be used on the drive side. The auto nut is the same best as I recall.
 

Attachments

  • P3040400.JPG
    P3040400.JPG
    58.9 KB · Views: 51
Back
Top