crank gear removal

[disonny]

Hi all, I have to get the crank out of the cases on my 84 wr400 lc. On the clutch side, how do you get the crank gear off? I got the nut off but it looks like the gear is held on by the stub that drives the water pump. How do I get the stub off? And is it left or right thread?

 

[fran...k.]

It is a taper fit. enough force with a puller and it will pop off. The threads and the slot in them to drive the water pump is part of the stub of the crankshaft assembly, they are significantly smaller than the taper of the gear and will not interfere. You just need some things to grab the under side of the gear that attach to whatever puller you choose to use. I usually use the cupped option on my puller and a soft coin, a nickel against the crank end. It (the nut you already have off) is right hand thread, the timing side is left hand. I think that is the only left hand thread on the bike unless you get old enough to have taper fit sprocket for the chain.

 

[justintendo]

husky made a dealer tool that looks like this

http://www.hva-factory.com/bottom-e...ar-removal-tool-puller-151980501-15-19-805-01

i got one from andy that works great or one can make a homemade unit

 

[Kartwheel68]

You dont need to make one or buy a special tool, any two jaw puller of the correct size works fine and they can be bought almost anywhere (in the US anyway) for $15-20.

 

[fran...k.]

It looks like I have found a real puller in this picture. I have cut strips of angle Iron perhaps 2"x2"X1/8" trimmed one side down to 3/4 inch or so and weld the other to a 5/16 or 8mm headless bolt and use the 3 and two slot type puller. The nut in the picture is so it pops off not free. The space is limited behind the gear not every generic puller will fit at least not without some modification.

 

[Kartwheel68]

True. I made a puller for my Sachs 100/125s out of a Pitman arm puller. I had to grind some material off the arms for it to fit the space between the gear and the cases, but it works great.

 

[justintendo]

sometimes they are very very tight from being overtightened, and the 500 often has a very large gear that leaves very little room compared to a 250. often a normal puller that is modified will work. if it slips, bad things can happen. im sure there are those here that never make mistakes but sometimes the right tool is nice, especially if you split lots of husky cases. something like frans puller or the pitman unit kartwheel posted would be good as their jaws couldnt open which would minimize the chance of damaging the cases.

 

[disonny]

Thanks guys, I have a 3 finger puller that I tried. It's on pretty tight but I'll give it another go this week. I didn't think it would be tapered.

 

[ajcmbrown]

If it's still stubborn with the three jaw puller, try a little heat on the gear while the puller is in place.
Tony.

 

[justintendo]

Thanks guys, I have a 3 finger puller that I tried. It's on pretty tight but I'll give it another go this week. I didn't think it would be tapered.

pretty much attached like a flywheel/magneto. the only reason they have a key is for timing reference, the key isnt for any strength purpose at all. the crank gear has no key as the position doesnt matter.

 

[disonny]

ok, I got the gear off tonight. Now to split the cases. I have a puller on it and they won't come apart. The bottom of the cases are about a 1/16 apart and the top is together. By the front motor mounts they are apart about 1/32. The top behind the cylinder aren't apart. I have 6 screws out that hold the cases together. Am I missing a screw someplace? Or do I need to heat the crank bearing to get these to pop?

 

[justintendo]

you have all the screws...sometimes you have to tap with a soft dead blow hammer all around the case half mating areas to get them to start splitting. they get hung up on the dowels too...resist the urge to pry on the soft magnesium, they likely havent been apart before.