CR500 1985 impressions

[Old Geezer]

Well I finally got her out for a 'proper' run on hard-packed dirt and rock....well dampened from some rain a few days prior. A few mud holes, good stuff like that, but great surface conditions for maximum traction.

This is only the second time I've had this bike in the dirt, and the first time I've let go of the reigns. All I can say is HOLY CRAP, BATMAN! this thing really hooks 'em up! Although I'm still not familiar enough with it yet so I held back some (well, my brother accuses me otherwise) it's got enough poop to kill me.

The suspension actually felt great - very solid, tractable, and predictable. The power band is awesome, quite broad and torquey with a great kick at the higher rpms (the thing damn near threw me with a surprise vertical wheel stand that came 'out of the blue'...my fault, not paying attention). The gear spacing matches the power almost perfectly. 4 gears with this power plant make for great fun. A 5th gear would be nice, but there really isn't a good reason to be going any faster.

My only complaints: Difficult to put into neutral at a stand still, but no problem if rolling. The clutch is properly adjusted; from my previous thread on this topic this just seems to be a characteristic of the 500's.
And a bit of a bear to start....sometimes only 2 or 3 kicks, other times 6 or 7 or not at all. It's getting too much much fuel in the starter/pilot circuits so if you don't get her to light up after half a dozen kicks, you risk a wet plug. Simply pull the plug, kick it through a few times and let it 'dry out', and she'll start right up.

Overall a great machine for aging weekend MX'ers like me.

 

[ruwfo]

I had my 84 500CR this weekend too, though i've had it for a couple years, it's always remained at the back of the garage, for a bunch of reasons. Mostly too many projects & too many Huskys, but i finally started too thin the herd & was determined to ride it more then just around on a grass track this year.

Mine is a low mileage one & sits way too much, sometimes because it was a pain to start too. Well here's my starting technique: Kick it thru a few times (5-6 times) with gas & choke, take choke off, then i put the bike it 2nd gear & roll it back til stops. This get piston to the top of the stroke, i then move the kicker with my hand about a 1/4 stroke, you'll feel the compression slightly lessen, let the kicker go back to the top. With boots on, kick it like you mean it, & mine been starting on the 1st kick. If for some reason it doesn't start, it's back into 2nd & to the top of the stroke and try again.. Only way my 510 & now seems like this 500 will start.

Anyway like you , i dragged it out on a practice MX track & was grinning the whole time, i've got other big bore Huskys a pair of 430's,& a 390 , but they don't pull like the 500..i couldn't agree more.

Now i'm sorry i haven't ridden it more, in fact i may drag it out for Unadilla Vintage races in a few weeks...

Husky John

 

[Old Geezer]

Way cool John, thanks for sharing your impressions. There's just something addictive about the big bores. Probably more poop than most people need, but loads of fun. Something about more is better.

Anyone else out there (we've had 100 views so far) want to share their impressions?

 

[Matt Cummings]

Being hard to get into neutral seems common for race bikes new and old. I was told its to keep you from hitting neutral while killing it.

My trick has always been to rev it up a bit and it always slips right in.

Seems like every big bore has its own start up procedure.
My Yamaha 490 will start first kick every time if you bring the piston to the very top of the down stroke and give her everything you got for a kick. Give her a lazy kick and your over the bar.

 

[everfree]

My only complaints:
... And a bit of a bear to start....sometimes only 2 or 3 kicks, other times 6 or 7 or not at all. It's getting too much much fuel in the starter/pilot circuits so if you don't get her to light up after half a dozen kicks, you risk a wet plug. Simply pull the plug, kick it through a few times and let it 'dry out', and she'll start right up.

Overall a great machine for aging weekend MX'ers like me.

O.G.,
I see the same starting issue with my 500 and 430. I learned the hard way, with plenty of compression kickbacks banging my foot.
You're right. If she doesn't start right away, I have to pull the plug and kick it through, put plug back in and try again.

I guess the bigger bore's create a big vacuum when starting that really sucks in the fuel, so flooding is easy. Also do not let the bike sit with the petcock open. Before I knew what I was doing, somehow even the exhaust pipe got filled with fuel, after pulling the pipe, it took a week of kicking it through to dry it out.
Now, I disconnect my fuel line or pull the tank off after every ride.

I would love to get the piston into the right start position every time. I'm always guessing.
I'll try Ruwfo's starting method and see how it works.

Thanks for posting this. Reliable starting makes these bike fun, otherwise they're a pain.
Dave

 

[Old Geezer]

O.G.,
I see the same starting issue with my 500 and 430. I learned the hard way, with plenty of compression kickbacks banging my foot.
You're right. If she doesn't start right away, I have to pull the plug and kick it through, put plug back in and try again.

I guess the bigger bore's create a big vacuum when starting that really sucks in the fuel, so flooding is easy. Also do not let the bike sit with the petcock open. Before I knew what I was doing, somehow even the exhaust pipe got filled with fuel, after pulling the pipe, it took a week of kicking it through to dry it out.
Now, I disconnect my fuel line or pull the tank off after every ride.

I would love to get the piston into the right start position every time. I'm always guessing.
I'll try Ruwfo's starting method and see how it works.

Thanks for posting this. Reliable starting makes these bike fun, otherwise they're a pain.
Dave

Dave, your comments echo mine exactly!! I no longer leave the fuel line connected, even though we put a brand new float needle valve in (I still don't trust it from earlier experiences). These things flood really really easy, but I did find that it starts much better with about 1/8 or so throttle held open when kicking. It will not start without the throttle opened a bit. I too will be trying out Ruwfo's method of backing up in 2nd to reach a backwards TDC, then relieving it just a bit with the kicker to start the down stroke. At least that method puts the piston in the same location every time.

 

[everfree]

Dave, your comments echo mine exactly!! I no longer leave the fuel line connected, even though we put a brand new float needle valve in (I still don't trust it from earlier experiences). These things flood really really easy, but I did find that it starts much better with about 1/8 or so throttle held open when kicking. It will not start without the throttle opened a bit. I too will be trying out Ruwfo's method of backing up in 2nd to reach a backwards TDC, then relieving it just a bit with the kicker to start the down stroke. At least that method puts the piston in the same location every time.

Ah, the fun of owning a big bore 2-stroke! The more I ride it, the more I learn.

I don't open the throttle at all. I do choke it though. I figure if the pilot circuit is right, it should start without any throttle. It doesn't take but a drop to fire it up. But, maybe I could throttle it some, I just hate to flood it.

I did notice it is sensitive to spark plug gap. Last time it wouldn't start it was because of the gap was too open. Manual said .020 inch, after I set it correctly, it fired up first kick. I keep a plug wrench and spare plugs with me when I ride.

I'm tempted to try one of those Lectron carbs at some point. I ride at different elevations, so I'd like a carb you don't have to fuss with.
Dave

 

[Old Geezer]

Also do not let the bike sit with the petcock open. Before I knew what I was doing, somehow even the exhaust pipe got filled with fuel, after pulling the pipe, it took a week of kicking it through to dry it out.

The first time that happened to me, I hastened the drying out by running a small diameter hose down through the intake side and between the crankshaft 'halves' to the bottom of the crank, and took a suction bulb to suck out as much fuel as I could. Then hooked said hose up to my air compressor and let her blow for an hour or so. Evaporates all the gas quickly, vs. waiting a week for it to dry out.

As for my starting technique of cracking the throttle open slightly, I don't think there's enough vacuum to pull fuel up through the main jet so in affect I'm adding just a little bit more air to the starting circuit mixture. The first time I tried to start this thing with no throttle it would not light. Then for kicks I opened the throttle and shazammm....

 

[Martint93]

I got my LC wr 500 a newer TE 610 kickstarter gear to get more crank ratation per kick rotation, start easy now!

 

[everfree]

I got my LC wr 500 a newer TE 610 kickstarter gear to get more crank ratation per kick rotation, start easy now!

Hmm, interesting. I didn't know that was possible. I'll have to check that out. I assume a late 90's 610, as the newer models have no kick start.

I just bought a MZB ignition from Penton Racing for my 430. Penton said a stock Motoplat ignition fires at 350 to 400 rpm if and only if it's in good condition. Out of every 10 they test, a good number require a higher rpm to fire. Your kick technique has to be good. The MZB fires at lower 300 rpm and supplies more wattage (70 watts) for better lighting.

Dave

 

[Martint93]

the kickstarter gear was from an 1995 TE 610.
I use the SEM ignition. but I once tried the internal motoplat ignition it and fired up with that one too..
the reason I went with the TE 610 gear is because I figured out that the only way the bike would start was when I had the piston at TDC and the kick lever almost straight upp. this was when I rode my 430 wr, but when I rebuild my 500cc I needed a new kickstarter gear as the original was pretty worn and for some reason I bought this TE 610 gear and idle gear. apperently I had counted wrong on the ebay picture, because when I got the gear it had a tooth more than the stock 2 stroke husky gear. this would give me more crank rot per kick rot, but I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to kick it all the way down due to one cylinder 500cc with fresh bore and good compression. to my surprice, it was actualy quit easy to kick start it!
btw I'm 182cm tall and 82kg heavy.. only a little 20 year old boy from norway bought my first 87 wr 400 when I was 15

maybe I have learned a usable technique over the years? I can sit start a friends yz 490 and my ktm 380, but have only made this twice on the husky 500..

 

[smadams68]

Husky John,
Like others, starting big bores for me is tough. Clearly it takes time and experience to get to know your bike, jetting, throttle position, throttle stop screw setting, etc.. I don't question that your method works, but I want to understand it. Most people would say bring the piston to TDC and give it all you got. Your method by reversing the stroke in my experience causes the tire to skid (even in higher gears) when approaching TDC and by going backwards it would seem to me that you would be past TDC in the running direction. then by moving the kicker in the running direction you are even further forward of TDC. I look forward to hearing what I'm missing. Thanks, Scott

 

[Motosportz]

Semi off topic but... I had some friends in town and we went to several MX tracks and then off road. One guy on a nice YZ250 and one on a modern KTM 450. I am admittedly slightly better rider than both but Jason on the YZ250 is right there. His eyes lit up when he saw me roll my semi vintage KX500 out as he thought this was the day he got to beat the old F-er. I let them roll around a half lap in front of me for a few laps while I sorted out how to ride the beast and then the fun began. Second practice i let them roll out first and let them gain some ground on me then went to work. They could see me gaining as I got closer I could see the mistakes starting to happen as they rode over their heads trying like hell to not let the old man on the vintage bike pass them. How sweet it was to roll by and then slowly leave them. Those big old monsters need you to ride them a certain way but it is surprising how good a pace you can keep on them it you exploit that huge torque. Fun times.

I even worked up some custom graphics for the meeting...

...complete with their names in the target, such a fun weekend.

 

[everfree]

the kickstarter gear was from an 1995 TE 610.
I use the SEM ignition. but I once tried the internal motoplat ignition it and fired up with that one too..
the reason I went with the TE 610 gear is because I figured out that the only way the bike would start was when I had the piston at TDC and the kick lever almost straight upp. this was when I rode my 430 wr, but when I rebuild my 500cc I needed a new kickstarter gear as the original was pretty worn and for some reason I bought this TE 610 gear and idle gear. apperently I had counted wrong on the ebay picture, because when I got the gear it had a tooth more than the stock 2 stroke husky gear. this would give me more crank rot per kick rot, but I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to kick it all the way down due to one cylinder 500cc with fresh bore and good compression. to my surprice, it was actualy quit easy to kick start it!
btw I'm 182cm tall and 82kg heavy.. only a little 20 year old boy from norway bought my first 87 wr 400 when I was 15

maybe I have learned a usable technique over the years? I can sit start a friends yz 490 and my ktm 380, but have only made this twice on the husky 500..

M-93,
Godt arbeid.
Yes, you have good technique. Practice makes perfect.

I think each kick, if done from piston at TDC kick lever straight up, will cause 3 ignition firings? At least 2 I think. Does anyone know? I have not had a motor apart to measure it. A extra tooth would help.

 

[ruwfo]

Husky John,
Like others, starting big bores for me is tough. Clearly it takes time and experience to get to know your bike, jetting, throttle position, throttle stop screw setting, etc.. I don't question that your method works, but I want to understand it. Most people would say bring the piston to TDC and give it all you got. Your method by reversing the stroke in my experience causes the tire to skid (even in higher gears) when approaching TDC and by going backwards it would seem to me that you would be past TDC in the running direction. then by moving the kicker in the running direction you are even further forward of TDC. I look forward to hearing what I'm missing. Thanks, Scott

Scott,
It's a 2 stroke, so whether the crank is spinning forwards or backwards it will get to TDC or to a compression stroke. The technic is to get it slightly
past the compression stroke, so you get the most out of intake stroke (which draws in the most fuel).

Any 2 stroke will run backwards if the ignition is set a little too retarded, my 86 400 use to do it from time to time.

The reason most big bore are hard to start is the piston is so large it draws alot of fuel on the intake stroke, so the ignition must fire quickly to light all that fuel, but if it's not spinning fast enough the spark comes a tiny bit to late , which can cause kick back. That's why many put a compression release
on there big bore, if the compression is lessened at just the right time, the motor will spin faster. By bring the piston to TDC , either foward or backwards,
then going a hair past, your releasing the compression too.

Husky John

 

[suprize]

Well my 400 lc just starts with a few kicks and the choke. if it hasn't fired by 4 kicks, choke off and a bit throttle and she fires. All very nice and Japanese. I can generally start it sitting on it if I get a good kick at it.

That 100 cc can make a difference...

 

[Old Geezer]

Well my 400 lc just starts with a few kicks and the choke. if it hasn't fired by 4 kicks, choke off and a bit throttle and she fires. All very nice and Japanese. I can generally start it sitting on it if I get a good kick at it.

That 100 cc can make a difference...

My Yamahammer 360MX lights up first kick every time (after about 3 or 4 slow kick-thru's to prime the thing). Of course, it won't stand a ghost of a chance against my big-lung Husky's, so maybe that's the price we pay.

 

[everfree]

My Yamahammer 360MX lights up first kick every time (after about 3 or 4 slow kick-thru's to prime the thing). Of course, it won't stand a ghost of a chance against my big-lung Husky's, so maybe that's the price we pay.

I've riding my 87 430 WR every weekend. Starting to get a feel for finding TDC and starting it on first or second kick.
Feeling a lot more confident starting and riding the bike.

It will still stall on some long steep downhills, in spite of feathering throttle, still working on that technique.
Yesterday, it stalled going downhill, I got it into 3rd and popped the clutch and she started back up on the way down... it has to be in 3rd, 1st or 2nd are too low.

Really liking the 430. Can't wait to ride it next weekend.
Dave

 

[Old Geezer]

It will still stall on some long steep downhills, in spite of feathering throttle, still working on that technique.
Yesterday, it stalled going downhill, I got it into 3rd and popped the clutch and she started back up on the way down... it has to be in 3rd, 1st or 2nd are too low.

Something not quite right there Dave. Idle set way too low? Or are you leaning out (dangerously, I might add)?

 

[everfree]

Something not quite right there Dave. Idle set way too low? Or are you leaning out (dangerously, I might add)?

I agree. Idle is probably too low. I'm not leaning it out. It will idle when warm, but seems low.
I'll play with the idle screw setting. Is the pilot circuit a possible issue here as well?
Thanks.