• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Countershaft Seal not fitting snug, NEED HELP

S

SnowMan90

Husqvarna
Recently the countershaft seal started to leak on my 09 SM 450R. I ordered the parts and began to replace the seal. When i removed the front sprocket i found that the countershaft seal cover was completely bent and banged out of its normal flat resting position. This was the first thing that concerned me. A few minutes later after removing the cover i found that there was infact no seal left at all. I replaced the o-ring, seal and spacer but in doing so it is very apparent that the seal does not sit flush to the case in only one spot. It is the upper right hand side of the case that seems to almost pull away from the seal. The section that is not flush is about 2mm in length so not a very larger portion at all. I put the front sprocket back on after straightening the seal cover from being bent to sitting very flush with the case. As i suspected, i fired her up on the stand and after about 20 seconds oil was speewing from the seal area. My question to anyone who may be able to help is, might the problem just be that the seal cover needs replacing, or am i looking at bigger problems with the case seeming to pull away from the seal in that small section? If it is the latter of the two, what am i looking at needing to do to fix it. I can post pictures up tomorrow if that helps.

Thank you!
 
Welcome! :cheers:

So you may get more responses, I will move this over to 4st..

General (Main) -> 4st
 
Thank you Coffee, and Mike i am not 100% sure. I have never had to replace anything at all with the countershaft on any bike i have owned so my knowledge is rather limited but i do have experience replacing almost everything else on bikes, just never the trans area. I basically just watched some videos on replacing the seal, and used the husqvarna manual to ensure i had everything in the right order and proceeded. The process was as simple as it looked. The biggest challenge was removing the circlip as it broke my original snap ring pliers but that was easily fixed with more durable ones. How can i tell if it blew the bearing?
 
I was just thinking that if the seal is not seating square it might because the shaft is no longer square to the case. Way beyond my skill level as well.
 
SnowMan90 said:
When i removed the front sprocket i found that the countershaft seal cover was completely bent and banged out of its normal flat resting position.
Click to expand...

Mike-AK said:
I was just thinking that if the seal is not seating square it might because the shaft is no longer square to the case. Way beyond my skill level as well.
Click to expand...

This may be caused by the chain being adjusted too tight and when hitting bumps, the too-tight chain pulls the countershaft and causes the damage you see now.
 
I did tighten the chain about 500 miles ago but have not touched it since. I will loosen the chain to be on the safe side. As far as fitting the seal, i have read that people have used RTV Black Silicone. Does anybody have any thoughts on using the silicone? and do you think that a small amount of silicone may make the seal fit snug enough? ALso when changing the seal, i did use grease on the inner and outter walls but the seal slid right into place. It seemed as if it was too easy how it just slid it, i am wondering now if maybe she is just not in far enough as i did not use any real effort to seat her since she seemed to literally just slide with ease into place? is that normal or can this be a sign that i just do not have her in far enough?

Thank you again to everyone for your help, i certainly do love that bike and until she is fixed, she is all i will be thinking about
 
I have some pictures here which may help, but to me she is not looking good, again any help would be appreciated as to what you think happened or is wrong, what ill need to do or get to fix, and what you think it will cost. Have in mind i do know there are some parts of the seal it just blew in there that i will have to fish out. as you can see in these three pics there looks to be some hanging metal on the inside just in front of where the seal sits and two small stress fractures in the case. I have no clue how this happened or what caused the seal to blow in the first place but i can only assume that new seal i put in blew because of whatever that hanging metal is. I included a picture with the seal in it to show how awkwardly it sits where the two small stress fractures are. Again any help, comments, concerns, or knowledge of what im looking at here in terms of what happened, what ill need to order, and what it may cost is greatly appreciated.
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The cracked out section is right in line with the chain tension so a too-tight chain and a big bump is most likely what caused this, and the only fix, that I can tell, is a left side case half, a complete teardown, and you may find the countershaft damaged as well when you get in there. The only other thing to do is clean it up real good with acetone, and sloppy seal it with high temp silicone, run the chain real loose and add oil when it needs some. JMHO
 
Thank you for your reply OlderHuskyRider, if you look at the first picture posted, you can see the metal i am referring to that is inside the case, it is on the bottom left portion of the inner side of the case, it is just hanging there, it looks to me as if it is part of the case, would you agree? and what in the world would cause that? and when you refer to using silicone i do have rtv black high temp silicone, i am hesitant to use it with the seal as a temporary fix until i have more funds just due to the metal i can see on the innards. The bike when i had her running, did not sound or ride differently other than spewing oil from the seal and i am sure some rtv silicone will do the trick to stop the oil leak, at least temporarily, but i am concerned about more internal damage. I guess a complete tear down is in my near future, just the question of whether to seal her up to try and ride or if that may be the absolute last thing i would want to do. My biggest problem is that i am a graduate student on a very fixed income which does not have the ability to change until my thesis is complete in a year so anything too pricey can really take me long lengths of time to accumulate the funds, this is also why i do all of the work myself even on new issues i have no experience with as it is just too expensive for me to pay labor. Thank you all for your help, and any more input on anything especially what that metal is from inside the case is always greatly greatly appreciated!
 
Also, is there anyone on here that lives in the central Illinois area that would be willing to assist me in tearing down the bottom end of the bike. It is obvious the case needs replacing, and im sure there are more surprises once inside, however i have limited knowledge when it comes to the crank and tearing apart the bottom end to rebuild/replace what is needed. I would be willing to pay someone to assist me in this process much rather than to take the bike in to the shop and not learn anything for future problems with any bikes. I would much rather pay to learn from someone who has done this before rather than attempting on my own or just to be lazy and drop the bike off to the local shop. Thanks again!
 
you could use some jb weld or marine tek to fill the cracks and and sand smooth for the time beeing
 
IMO the big question here is the condition of the shaft bearings. Does the shaft feel rough or have any radial (up and down, side to side) play? I'm Not sure of the end play spec for a 450, but the WR/CR 250-300 gear boxes are set up with .015-.025" end play. Another way to find out if there is bearing damage is to check your oil screens and cut the filter open to see if there are bearing flakes.
If there isn't any indication of bearing damage, I would have no problem repairing the the seal bore with a metal mender or JB product if it was my bike.
Good luck:)
 
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