• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Correct Jetting For Standard 2011 Wr300

300twoSmoker

Husqvarna
any help would be great. thank you. the bike is 3days old, dealer jetted the bike too rich.... someone with the right jetting specs would be real helpful so i get it right the first time. Thank you.
 
Check the Jetting Database and then post your questions in the Jetting Chat threads.

Sorry l can't be more helpful cos ever rider is different so there is no one right jetting specs, it's all down to the feel of the rider and understanding the carby stroke range (plenty of info on this site).
 
I'm at sea level running a 35 and 440....second clip on th eneedle. Bike runs great pulls clean all the way through. Bike came with a 40 and 460 (too rich)
 
I might be the odd man on this topic because i have tryed the Keihin so called air stricker with even a JD
kit in it on both a Wr 250 and 300 and for me it did not work as well as the Mikuni.I have a 2006 WR 250
all stock motor and electronics and a 2010 WR 300 with also stock motor but with the older like 2002 CR
electronics in it .Here in what i run and i have raced the bikes from sea level to up around 6,000 feet,with temps from just under freezing to up a little over 100.For me both bikes seem to run great and i never feel the need to change anything
Both bikes run a 2006 year Mikuni carb
35 pilot
370 main
3.0 slide
6DGY04-59 needle set clip second clip from the top very wierd looking tappered needel but it works
stock plug either stock or uridium did not make a difference
RACE GAS either stright or now around 3gallons of 110 leaded to 2 gallon 91 pump then mixed 40 t0 1
air screw set around 1 1/2 turns out
both bikes run FMF narley pipes with turbin core spark arrestor
i race just about everything desert,enduros,gran prixs and even some motocross
for me this set up works set it once and then race it all year no changes
i do not know if the 2006 carb is the same as the 2010 but i do know a guy who has a 2010 and he set up his 2010 wr 250 with this setting on his 250 and he reported the bike runs great.
might be the needel that makes the difference it sure looks wierd
 
I have fitted the airstryker to a 2010 300 and found it easier to jet to my liking, I do agree about the JD needles and infact found the Kehein CEL needle much better that either JD red or Blue.
Fitting the race head is a very worthwhile mod also. Gives much more bottom end and mid range. I don't think it makes much difference either way to top end but here in the forest/mountains of Queensland it is a great improvement.
 
Back
Top