• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Coolant Drain

mlorenzini

mlorenzini

Husqvarna
A Class
So I want to change the coolant on my TE511 to the XF from ZipTy. Is there a drain plug near the water pump? How do I drain as much of the stock coolant as possible? Thanks.
 
mlorenzini said:
So I want to change the coolant on my TE511 to the XF from ZipTy. Is there a drain plug near the water pump? How do I drain as much of the stock coolant as possible? Thanks.
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I just did my 449. Take off the rads and flush them, they are full of crap. On the motor stick a hose in one side and blow the old murky water/coolant out the other. Mine was brown and looked to have dirt or something in it... The drain is the lowest bolt on the pump cover.
 
ok, I thought that was the drain. My coolant is still clear (only 700 miles) with the stock coolant that is clear with a very light green color (barely visible). You flush it with regular tap water?
 
When I changed to XF I drained the unit, blew compressed air thru it, then added a small amount of the XF and ran it for just a couple of minutes. Drained it out and refilled to the top with XF
 
No need to flush, just blow out as much old coolant as possible. Add XF, 1/4" over top coils. May have to add additional after first ride if air pocket is filled. Will last the lifetime of the bike.
 
Tinken said:
No need to flush, just blow out as much old coolant as possible. Add XF, 1/4" over top coils. May have to add additional after first ride if air pocket is filled. Will last the lifetime of the bike.
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All depends on what your coolant looks like when you drain it. Mine looked like mud, brown with particles in it. It needed flushed bad.
 
Tinken said:
The brown mud is radiator sealant tabs Husky tosses in there. Ours are the same way.
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Thanks Tinken. None of that left in there now, know why they put it in there in the first place? It's all your race coolant now. The bike smells 'sweet' when it warms up now, that will probably go away in time. :)
 
JRW said:
Thanks Tinken. None of that left in there now, know why they put it in there in the first place?
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They use it as a block seal. Stock caps pressurize to 26.1psi and most people add a 30psi cap which puts a huge strain on the hoses and seals. The block seal fills any imperfections that would otherwise leak at the high pressure. XF runs at 1-2 psi, no block seal needed.
 
Tinken said:
They use it as a block seal. Stock caps pressurize to 26.1psi and most people add a 30psi cap which puts a huge strain on the hoses and seals. The block seal fills any imperfections that would otherwise leak at the high pressure. XF runs at 1-2 psi, no block seal needed.
Click to expand...

I've got a tiny pin hole in my right radiator but can't tell how or when it got there. Admittedly I haven't checked the coolant in sometime so there's no telling how long it's been there. I took it over to a buddy who is an auto mechanic to pressure test it. We topped it up with quite a bit of water (don't know how much but A LOT, like maybe 20oz??) While we could find the leak there is no obvious signs of damage or separation abd when I say find the leak I mean we could see where the leak started (i.e. was the first one wet) but again couldn't see why. He put about 18 PSI in it and it held for about 10 mins or more. It almost makes me wonder if it was there when I purchased it and only started leaking when I overheated the bike a few days ago.

My questions are this: 1) Is it possible that putting in the XF (just finally ordered it) and it running at such a low pressure it may not even leak?
2) Might it be possible that I could throw a sealant tab in to see if that helps? If so would I add it to the XF or to a water solution to get it to fill the tiny gap?
 
Thanks, now I just have to find the hole. It's literally that tiny but that sure beats the hell out of replacing it.
 
Those pinhole leaks are usually caused from high temperature corrosion. I'm not sure how to advise you to check for leaks. I know they add dye to regular antifreeze for leak detection. I hope you can find it. XF will work, probably take a very long time to leak out, but still better to fix it.
 
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