• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Cooked Brakes!

Super5onic88

Super5onic88

Husqvarna
AA Class
I was on a quick ride to my local bike shop to pick up some goodies and while cruising at 90km/hr my bike started bogging down.
I then noticed the unmistakeable smell of brakes burning!
My rear brake had locked on after my last turn.

Has anyone had this happen on there 449/511?

What's the minimum I should do?
Replace brake fluid?
Replace rotor?

Luckily the bike shop had some tools so I could take the brake pedal stop off and ride home.
I have ridden with my brake pedal adjusted as low as it can go for 1200kms without an issue.
Multiple stomps on the pedal when it was locked on would not release it, it was rock solid.

Now that I have gotten home the pedal is very spongey instead of a nice solid feeling.

Here's the condition of the rotor.
56241F83-95B8-4992-B074-5CB660476A31-2317-00000396567F10D9_zps5ca4816e.jpg


And just after I got it to release brake fluid would squirt out from under the master cylinder cap when I pushed the pedal.
 
sounds like the whole thing is shot. If it was mine, I would replace master cylinder, brake assy, and rotor. never heard of that happening.
 
Bryce said:
sounds like the whole thing is shot. If it was mine, I would replace master cylinder, brake assy, and rotor. never heard of that happening.
Click to expand...

You must have money to burn!!!
Probably just crap round the piston or brake pad pins seized, strip it down, clean and lubricate, replace pads if they're wasted, if not put em back in and go ride.
 
I pulled the master cylinder off and gave it a good clean out and flushed some new Motul brake fluid through it. Seems to be working good now.
I have a feeling my pedal adjuster/plunger had some how wound itself out putting drag on the brakes.
 
You can use KTM brake pads if they are easier to get. If your rotor isn't warped, it can be resurfaced. Flush your fluid and add Dot 5.1. I use the Zipty reservoir extender/cooler.
 
I'd like one of those res extenders but it will hit my exhaust heat shield.
It's good to know KTM pads will fit.
I have a new set of Supermoto wheels coming with a new fancy rotor so I'm ok with that for now.
 
To get the pedal as low as I wanted on my 630, I replaced the top jamb nut on the MC clevis with a washer and shortened the threaded portion of the MC shaft a bit to clear the tail of the pedal itself. I also made an oversized pedal stop cam.

It can be tricky getting it adjusted just right so you've still got some dead travel (so your brakes release reliably) but not so much that the pedal is stopping on the clevis instead of the pedal stop.
 
Super5onic88 said:
I'd like one of those res extenders but it will hit my exhaust heat shield.
It's good to know KTM pads will fit.
I have a new set of Supermoto wheels coming with a new fancy rotor so I'm ok with that for now.
Click to expand...


Does that mean you have your old SMR wheels to sell?
 
I've fried many rear pads. Once heavily burned, they're not as progressive (can get grabby) and need to be replaced. Even if the rotor surface is a little rough, I've found they still work OK.
 
Stuff like this rarely happens if these brake systems are rigged properly, these systems are very bullet proof. T/S steps 1st choice mis adjustment, 2nd choice check all components, additional use good pads and fluid. Check Motul 660 if you really want to go for hi temp fluid and the reservoir extender gives more volume for heat dissipation. To me this sounds like it was dragging from the get go. Also Slavens has a caliper end heat sink tube for brembos (listed as a KTM part) if want to take it further.

http://www.motul.com/system/product...ts/2636/rbf_660_factory_line_8472_(gb)_1_.pdf
 
Bryce said:
Does that mean you have your old SMR wheels to sell?
Click to expand...

I will be keeping these wheels for the road. The new ones will be for the track.

Also yesterday when fixing all this malarky the tiny bolt for the brake stop cam snapped.
Looks like I'll have to add on to my ZipTyRacing shopping list.
 
I just had this happen on my streetbike. Too much fluid in the resevoir. Luckily I had an 8mm wrench in my bag to release the pressure and extra fluid.
 
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