• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Connecting rod possible damage

fhantson

fhantson

Husqvarna
A Class
Hey Guys,
Please have a look at these pic of my '69 250 cross. Do you think these lines (no physical cracks just lines) could indicate a future falure of the connecting rod? The engine builder has some concerns about it. Will drop if off at McGuire tomorrow for testing, but wanted your specialist's eye's opinion too.
Thanks,
FilipDSC_0076_5081.JPGDSC_0076_5081.JPG
 
You mean the scoring that goes around on either edges. That usually indicates that the pins have worn enough for the cage to rub on the inside of the rod. I personally wouldn't want to reuse the rod if another can be found. It might last for a while, but certainly not as long as it could last if the tolerances were nice and tight.
 
I thought the rule of thumb is to replace the main bearing if there is more than 0.07mm to 0.10mm of end play.
 
How much are you going to use this bike/motor? Every weekend,five times a year, once a year,how much? That's question you have to answer.
 
auto said:
How much are you going to use this bike/motor? Every weekend,five times a year, once a year,how much? That's question you have to answer.
Click to expand...
That's the question indeed, do not have plans to ride it every week, but you know how that goes: you ride it once, you have a blast, you start training again to ride more and harder... And end up riding every week like your life depends on it :)
 
Since you have the crank split and the rod out, replace it now rather than after a premature bearing failure
 
Most of what I see is staining from sitting a long time. Any stains like that is very shallow corrosion. As long as the new bearing needles wont try to catch on it I would reuse it. Corrosion is taking surface material away but we call it "lube retention" in the engine trade. Any attempt to polish it out will remove material from the OD increasing that dimension which would be more of a problem. If parts availiblity is good and concern would be to replace it. I'd run it in a resto.
 
its a husky rod!..it will be fine..just make sure all the rest is correct....air/fuel carb mix... air filter.. two stroke oil...only ever changed one con rod on all my huskys and that was because the oem big end kit came with crankpin,con rod and big end bearing... 78 390cr after a long hard season !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top