• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

coil problems??

D

dirty_harry

Husqvarna
hi.
ive got a 2005 250 te, and ive just done a semi rebuild on the thing. it seized the big end bearing while i was out riding a few weeks ago, so i just wacked a new rod kit in it and away she went (i checked other bearings and they seemed fine to me). anyway that was on sunday night that i got it running again and i went for a small ride around my neighborhood, monday morning i started it up and rode about 30-40 minutes to uni on it and it was going great, onthe way home from uni i went to the hardware store and again it started fine leaving uni and the hardware store and it was going great. anway i was waiting to turn right at a set of lights and had to wait 2 cycles to get to the front of the que. i dont like leaving my bike idling at lights so i turned the thing off. i watched the sequence and turned the bike back on just fine and as the lights turned green it just died. and i couldnt restart it. no spluttering no funny noises just dead.

so i got my mate to pik me up with a trailer and i took it back to mine. and for the life of me i couldnt start the bastard. i shoved a metal pen in the plug lead and didnt seem to get any spark (possibly not the best way of checking but whatever) so i spent a while chasing a plug down for it today and eventually found one but still nothing, so i pulled every electrical connection apart and sprayed with silicon spray. i the pulled the plug lead out of the plug cap and arced that to the motor and it seemed frequent but not very strong, so i closed the plug gap and she finally went. albeit very rough. obviously the small plug gap aint ideal but itll get me round for now so i just wanna know WTF is wrong with the thing. im thinking a buggered coil now but im really not sure. so any ideas? also does anyone have any voltage/resistance figures i can check across things to try and narrow it down some more. ill look through the manual in a minute but just wanted to get a thread out there asap.

cheers harry
 
I just went through a similar problem.
Mine ended up being a bad ground to the frame on the coil. Make sure those are nice and clean.

Your best bet is to use the manual and start from the coil and work your way back. I dont know what the values are for your bike but testing is pretty easy though you need to pull the coil to do it.
If the coil is good, then I would check the stator. Thats easy as well just a couple checks on the plug with a multimeter.
The rotor may be dirty which could be causing a intermitent or weak spark. Pull the cover and just clean it up real well.
Otherwise you may be looking at the cdi, but thats about where my knowledge runs out. I just know the above advice is what I was given.

7point was a big help to me, you can see his advice in my thread
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wi...-getting-a-momentary-spark.23631/#post-211738

Hope some of this helps
 
ok.
so i checked the earths just then and they all seem good, cleaned them up and sprayed with silicon spray and still nothing, so i nipped down to uni with the coil to test it with a multi meter and its showing all the correct resistance figures, so i dont know where im going now, i guess ill borrow a multi meter off a friend and test the figures out of the stator. ill also add that i rode the bike up and down the street for about 10 or 15 minutes yesterday with the plug gap closed up a bit, it rode really spluttery but it was running. however when i was wheeling it into the shed while it was idling it stopped again the same as it did at the lights, so im not sure.
cheers harry
 
If you have to wait on a meter, try leaning the bike over on something and take the stator cover off. Your symptoms sound like your rotor and magnets might be dirty. Pull the cover, and clean up the rotor on the inside and out. There will probably be a good amount of silver sludge all over it. I have read some people use alcohol wipes to clean it. I just used some disposable shop towels. Clean all the metal surfaces on the windings too, and the pick up for the outside of the rotor.
I'd bet there is a good chance thats your problem. Either that or your exciter winding is on its way out.
Good luck.
 
well as i say the coil is fine, i spoke a bit soon. i took it to the bike shop to see what they said even though i tested it as fine and they threw it on a load tester and said they could only get a 6mm jump any more and it started breaking up, apparently this means its buggered so i bought a new coil. i bought a Yamaha coil that fits cause it was 40 bucks instead of 80. however it still doesn't work. so im not sure. ill try cleaning the flywheel now, i cleaned it fairly good when i had the motor apart though and i got a load of the white pasty stuff off that your talking about but i guess some more couldve built up on it
cheers
harry
 
so with the new coil your still not getting a strong consistent spark? Or you are, but there is still a issue.
Just ruling out the obvious but are you sure this isnt a fueling issue? Has the carb been cleaned/rebuilt lately?

If you borrow the meter be sure to go ahead and test the throttle position and the gear indicator(assuming you have both on the 250, I am not familiar with them). Its real easy and will rule them out.
 
another day and another waste of time. so ive been through absolutely everything, i decided to stop being a tight arse a buy a multi meter, so i did that and went round checking a few things, before i go deeper into that let me clarify a few things. it is definately not fuel, ive cleaned the carb out and the plug is getting suitably wet when it wont start. i had the old coil load tested and was told it was no good so i have bought a new coil and installed it. the spark is regular just really really really weak, i have to close the plug gap to nearly nothing before i even start to see a spark jumping the gap and by this point the gap is to small to efficiently run the bike. the bike will run and only seems slightly down on power however it is really stuttery especially at lower revs, and as soon as it reaches a reasonable temperature and you let the revs drop to idle it will stop. it has never stopped while i have actually been riding along only when i slow to do a u turn and let the revs drop. i have had the voltmeter on the gear position sensor and the throttle position sensor and have tried riding without the TPS but the same thing happens so im assuming these are fine. i checked the resistance through the different windings of the stator and there all how they should be. i cut open the wiring harness to look for broken wires and there are none. so the only thing obviously left in the line is the condensor can/capacitor, now the bike will run with this disconnected so i pulled the plugs on that and cranked it over to look at the spark and it looks exactely the same as when it is plugged in. so i am highly dubious about the functionality of the capacitor as this is meant to amplify the spark if im reading and researching correctly (correct me if im wrong). so i ran the multi meter over the capacitor and depending which way around i have the wires it either shows off limits or 16 kohm, from what i was reading it should show off limit one way and 0 ohm the other, so i took it down the bike shop and they didnt really seem to know much however i went out the back and thye had a 2004 husky sitting in the workshop so we checked the resistance with their multimeter of both my capacitor and the one on this other bike and both showed off limit one way and 0 the other. so im not really sure what to conclude from that either my multi meter is wrong or there multi meter is wrong or one of us wasnt using it properly. but i dunno if the capacitor would even give symptoms like a weak spark.
cheers again
 
I dont know bud, you got me stumped. The only other thing can think of is your CDI? From what I have read there is no real way to test it. I am hesitant to say that though because you are getting spark.
Wish I could be of more help. If you are sure your stator is testing good, Then I would go through and make sure your frame has a good ground to it off the battery, and where the coil mounts to the frame is is super clean. Cant hurt to put a little dielectric grease between it. that ended up being my issue.

Let us know if you find anything.
 
I had a bad kill switch that did the same thing.

Disconnect the kill switch and the IGN switch if you can.
 
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