• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutching at straws

Bartz

Husqvarna
B Class
Rightio I flushed and replaced clutch fluid with the expensive Motorex stuff and no change, still losing clutch when hot, lost it in less than an hour. Clutch lever goes limp and even when on tar at speed (so should cool) it doesn't return until the bike is off for a while. I'm over it!
Any ideas? Surely can't be hydraulics? Must be in the clutch but what and how to diagnose?
Any suggestions?
As an aside, after I washed it and lent it (way over) on dodgy stand to dry. When I went to move it there was a heap of bluish fluid on the ground and when I moved bike more came out of the air box I think. The fluid was an oily with some water. I replaced oil before my last ride to recommended volume and it's had a 5 hour ride so why so much oil coming out after an hour?
This bike is cursed (or I am)image.jpg
 
Water can get into the airbox very easily and then drain out the bottom, along with the vented crankcase oil.

The blueish color is a a little worrisome, what kind of coolant are you running, is it blue?

The loss of clutch without the loss of fluid is puzzling the hell out of me. Wish I could be there when it happened, get hands-on with it....
When the clutch goes away, does the lever feel totally soft like there is no fluid being moved at all?
When the clutch goes away, have you ever pulled the top of the master cylinder and looked at the reservoir as you pull the lever to see if there are bubbles coming out, or if the fluid level is in any way different than when it's cold??


Found these tips on another board:
Check your crank case ventilation tube for a kink or obstruction. An over pressurized crankcase can push on the slave cylinder thus driving the fluid back up to the reservoir; resulting in a clutch that must be pumped back up before it will disengage. I did not think it was possible till it happened to me. Hope this is your easy fix.
 
Hey Todd,
I dont' think the coolant is blue but will have to check. I bought some expensive oil last time, not sure if it is blue either.
I also have put a new Oberon slave cylinder on it and a mate has put his old master cylinder (he changed to a clutch/brake device).
Fluid when cold is full in the reservior and same after fault happens (only checked when cool) maybe i need to check when it fails.
Yes the clutch goes limp, pulls right to the grip with no pressure at all and no action on the clutch.
crank ventilation was loose so i loctite'd it and no change. Is some small indentation in the tube but it's 90% open and if that oil is coming from the crankcase....hang on - i cleaned my air filter and used new oil and it's blue DING!!! that's the oil mystery solved!
Is weird there is no hydraulic oil loss and full function regained when cools down completely, weird also that once lost it doesnt matter if you use the lever or not it still stays limp, even if let cool a little to regain some function it'll go limp again even when at speed without gear changing.
I really think it might be worn clutch plates or something but still questioning why it works perfectly when cold? I don't really want to pay for new clutch bits unnecessarily. I should have bought the second hand rekluse that was on ebay recently!
 
The only issue I ever had with my 08 TXC250 and the clutch was an o-Ring in the slave cylinder ... Can't remember the exact action but it was going limp in some manner ...

Good luck ..
 
Hey Todd,
Fluid when cold is full in the reservior and same after fault happens (only checked when cool) maybe i need to check when it fails.
........ still questioning why it works perfectly when cold?

I edited my post, Todd was the guy that posted about the crankcase ventilation, I aint Todd....:)



Get the bike hot and get the clutch to fail, then reach over and open the oil fill cap, see if there is a psssst sound, and see if the clutch starts working.

I think you need to get the bike hot and get the clutch to fail and then start looking at things, like the fluid level in the master cylinder, it should be rock solid the same all the time and not vary with heat. Checking stuff when the bike is cold is a waste of time in my book.
 
Yes I agree Older but not Todd Rider.
This makes sense to me too but I'm not sure what to look for hot or cold. If it's making pssst noise is it trying to tell me a secret?
 
. If it's making pssst noise is it trying to tell me a secret?

It would be a sign of crankcase pressure-build up, your crankcase ventilation system may be blocked and you can't see it. The pressure could be causing your clutch to go when the bike gets hot and builds up pressure.
 
Ah OHR, I don't think this is it as the overflow tube is actually loose in the case. I did loctite it to no avail. What should I be sealing this with?
I had another thought (they come slowly to me). When cold and clutch working and I pump the clutch lever many times it doesn't harden up like the brake lever, should it?

I'm thinking of ordering a master cylinder kit as they are cheap, have read that won't work if piston/cylinder is scored so will pull it apart and have a look/feel first.
 
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