• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Clutch slip on 165

Kyle Tarry said:
I'm not a huge believer in "spring fatigue", to be honest.
Click to expand...

I know springs will sack some, seen it on shock springs a few times. I can also see this maybe happening on 4 strokes where they are bathed in hot oil. thats said never had a clutch spring issue in 30 years and countless bikes so not something i worry about personally.
 
Right on guys. As always I say do what you believe in and what has been working for you. I have learned over the (more recent) years that my view of "correct" may not fit everyone's situation or use, that the same materials and designs produce different results for different people. We sure do use our machines in vastly different conditions and ways!!

I have personally proved the loss of clutchpack pressure myself. Back when I was one of the "top dogs" locally in 125A and 250A(that alone dates it, now 250A and 450A!!) , my 125 starting slipping bad in practice. I had fresh OEM springs (Honda CR125) but no plates. Threw the springs in and got through the raceday with no more slipping. Replaced the pack later and it was beat.

Some interesting info on the very real occurance of both spring fatigue and spring relaxation, both of which affect clutchpack pressure:

http://www.rockfordspring.com/relaxationofsprings.asp

http://www.rockfordspring.com/springfatigue.asp

I feel that in this bike IN PARTICULAR, it has very little wiggle-room for the springs, as they are just barely adequate when new, for the way I ride. Again, disregard if you never have the problem, but I mention all this because the OP IS having a problem! The springs are cheap compared to the clutchpack, so it makes economical sense to replace them.:thumbsup:
 
Marc, I agree with the "theory" of what you're talking about, and maybe if you're right on the edge it can happen. However, as shown in those links, the amount of relaxation we're talking about is only 1-5%. On the fatigue, it's impossible to say if we have an issue unless we have a bunch of engineering data about the springs. Also, note that the number of cycles to failure is on the order of 1 million; even at 1000 clutch actuations per ride (every 7 seconds of a 2-hour hare scramble!), it would take 1,000 rides (maybe 30,000 miles?) to get a spring to fail. Unlikely anybody here rides a 2-stroke this much! :cheers:
 
Marc, agree with everything you said it is just my experiance with this clutch (I've owned about 5 125 huskys now) and the lack of any posts but this one about it makes me think the clutches are strong on this bike. There is over 100 165 kits out there making big power and no stream of clutch related issues as you would assume might be the case. I ride nothing but tight technical steep stuff and abuse the clutch as part of my normal riding. No issues with springs ever. I think the OP might be dealing with a odd lever and issues. In the end you are 100% correct, they are cheap, replace them if you think it might be the issue. :thumbsup:
 
So there is no notching on the basket
I have nt really ever smelt burning and the plates aren't blue -would that be when hot?

I am not sure if the worn friction plates are really worn too much or if issue is related to the asv lever

Any thoughts on wear and pics?

As i said I will also do a flush and try best quality oil.
If springs are cheap enough will get new ones with plates if i need them
 
Good convo guys!

RD if your measurements were accurate and you are below min spec on the frictions then by all means replace the pack and springs, it is probably the problem. Remember, as the pack wears it gets thinner, which effectively is reducing preload on the springs also. I would definitely go back to a stock perch/lever with stock freeplay, at least until you establish a baseline to work with on the new clutch. That info, combined with all that people have shared here, will give you the knowledge to make an educated decision on wether the ASV is going to work for you properly. Kelly's tip on oil is huge, only use an oil without friction modifiers. If you are unsure what to use, ask here or only use a 2t gearbox-specific oil. If it says "energy conserving" it most certainly has friction modifiers and is the enemy of clutches. Even if it only got used once, it compromises the clutch for ever. Perhaps this happened in the distant past?
 
Yes I think my oil choice has been without that knowledge in the past
The wear would have been over the last few years as a 125 then 144 and I guess the torque of the 165 is showing the issue up
 
Spectro clutch saver is very good trans oil for these bikes. BTW your steel plates look fine from the pix.

805307.JPG
 
Cleaned up the plates with some emery cloth and put in some new quality gearbox oil
Changed clutch lever which allowed me to reduce middle cable barrel about 10mm
Clutch seems to work perfectly now
Message - dont use ASV. levers.
 
rockdancer said:
Cleaned up the plates with some emery cloth and put in some new quality gearbox oil
Changed clutch lever which allowed me to reduce middle cable barrel about 10mm
Clutch seems to work perfectly now
Message - dont use ASV. levers.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

These clutches are pretty indestructible if you ask me
I had with my last overhaul notches in the basket which I filed out
I have a new basket on the shelf now but still don't see the need to replace it

I do use the bike where it is made for and do respect the oil changes and so, but its amazing how much this little engine is taking the load

Robert-Jan
 
Yep.
Re measured the friction plates and they were all 2.9mm so only 1mm of wear in 100 hrs or so
Went on a big ride in the wet and she is going real well. Impressed a few people with its grunt
Mind you another guy on a new wr125 was there and rode his bike up hills better than most on 300s
 
rockdancer said:
Cleaned up the plates with some emery cloth and put in some new quality gearbox oil
Changed clutch lever which allowed me to reduce middle cable barrel about 10mm
Clutch seems to work perfectly now
Message - dont use ASV. levers.
Click to expand...


No issues on mine with ASV lever. I get full release and full engagement. No matter though as I have my hydro clutch on the bench waiting to be installed!
 
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