• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch problem.

I will put my comments close to your quoted text.

DaveM said:
Hi Nikel,



The fix for me was replace the seal on the clutch lever that comes out of the motor the one the clutch cable attaches to with a bearing, it is a common size and easy to get.

This is true and has been on here before. Acutally I was able to get the seal on top of the sealed bearing. I believe the main forces are down near the rod and that is where the parts sheets show modifications as this engine (sort of) continued in the next 10 years.




A standard clutch pack starts with a clutch plate and ends with a friction plate (Aluminum Disc).

It needs to start with a friction plate (Aluminum Disc) and end with a friction plate ( aluminum Disc).

I choose to count the basket insides and the pressure plate like an aluminum disc with splines pointing in so I think they got it right.




When you put the clutch cable back on the bike try to route it as smoothly as possible, my last bike had three cable ties

I agree my cables turn as gentle as possible coming off the engine and rub or come close to rubbing the fender.


Cheers, DaveM.
Click to expand...
 
Hi everyone.
Now I know what to look for.

I probably pull my clutch out tomorrow and have a check.

The Seal -> Bearing replacement was a good one.
I will look into that.

My cable is all loose with no cable ties so its slides good.


Anyway.
I get back to all of you tomorrow.

Thx for now.
 
Hi Guys,

By adding one more friction disc (aluminum Disc) first, this small change makes the clutch work properly.

Cheers, DaveM.,
 
i have tried doing the bearing instead of seal trick on two different cases...both times i had a binding problem..messed with it for quite awhile and both bikes i resorted to a fresh viton seal and no bearing..i really wanted that mod to work
 
I purchased a 83/430 once where the owner said the clutch was slipping. The rod that runs from the lever to the clutch plate cover was adjusted too long. When the clutch was assembled there was no play at the lever.
There was pressure there to release the clutch already. That set screw and 10mm hex nut needs to be adjusted till there is a little play at the lever on the block were the clutch cable attaches too.

You still have to adjust the length of this rod when we install a new clutch.
 
in my case it was binding with nothing else installed...it would bind in the case. the pushrod is a critical adjustment.
 
Now I have to adjust the rod inside real close to where it starts to push the clutch.
To much and it will slip and to little it will drag like hell.
But last trip it worked fine until the end where it started slipping alot, so I guess I wore it out.

Probably the lever damage made it so hard to adjust.
 
ive had this issue and poor adjustment saw it slip to the point I think I "shagged it" so I have backed it right off and changed to a 20 wt oil that seems to be more suitable and has helped a fair bit. a sharp bump in top gear under full throttle will set it slipping tho.

Over the summer break I will be giving the bike a new top end, new clutch (steel plates) and new chain and sprockets... saving saving saving......
 
suprize..a sharp bump in a high gear is usually weak spring pressure..had a streetbike or two with that one
 
Hi again.

Now I have pulled my clutch out and its a 6 spring.

First of all i did a test with my welded Actuation thingy.
Much better.
Before I had two levels where the clutch where off.
One where the clutch arm stopped by itself when I released the clutch and another one when I pulled it back with my hand.

So now I have more play in the clutch when pulled.
I did notice that the actuation thingy got dented by just about 20 pulls so I need a new one.

Should I buy the same one or the full moon one?

The clutch looks kinda worn.
At least the aluminium plates.
They are shiny and not straight when i put them in a stack.

And the pressure plate shows some wear and the bottom of the clutch basket is pretty scratched, but no edge to drill away.

The fiber plates is around 2.25mm thick.
I looked at my fiber plate and thought.

-This look very similar to the ones from my 1997 ZX6R.

And in fact, they are very similar.
The ZX6 ones are 2.8 mm thick and fits in the clutch basket just a little tight.
So i filed it down seven strokes with a file on one side of each ear and it fits like a charm.
The steel plates is a No match though.

I will try to change some fiber plates to the Zx6 ones to ad up the missing material.
But I need a new clutch so I will order a kit with steel plates.

DSC_0620.JPG
DSC_0624.JPG
DSC_0625.JPG
DSC_0627.JPG
 
the style you have is supposed to be an upgrade over the half moon style, which is older. new plate set and new cam with everything adjusted right and you should be good to go. youre probably being a little hard on it with all the street use. i think these are more made for dirt which has a bit of give
 
justintendo said:
the style you have is supposed to be an upgrade over the half moon style, which is older. new plate set and new cam with everything adjusted right and you should be good to go. youre probably being a little hard on it with all the street use. i think these are more made for dirt which has a bit of give
Click to expand...

Yeah, streetriding is not easy on the bike.

It would probably be better with some stronger springs in it.
The zx6r have only four springs but they are twice the size of the Husky.

New parts will be ordered.
 
Does anyone know how thick the clutch-pack should be when new.
I have only seen measurement for the 5 spring clutch.
 
I'm presenting you the First ever Zx6r 7 Disc CR500 Clutch.
19,6 mm thick instead of 18 mm.
Have just tried to push it around with 1:st gear in and at least that works real good.

DSC_0630.JPG
 
Nikel said:
And another thing.
I have the Steel chain guide and not the Aluminum one.
That cant be right?

Chain%20Guide%201.JPG

chain%20guide%20cpl.JPG
Click to expand...

Steel is original. Alloy one looks like a Husky Products aftermarket upgrade. Your bike looks fantastic!
 
Good to know PEZ and thank you.

Now I have done some Zink Soldering on the clutch cover and everything is put together again so hopefully I can do a road test tomorrow.
 
Back after a 100 km ride and it actually works awesome.

Absolutely no drag and no slipping.
 
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