• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch fluid maintenance

H

henson802

Husqvarna
AA Class
Alright, I had my bike in the shop for awhile. Finally get it back, and the folks messed up my clutch so there is no resistance on the clutch handle. It can't even shift gears now because it's basically useless handle.

So instead of bringing it back and probably get it more messed up, I decided to do it myself.

I have the fluid for the clutch. I was told to bleed the hydraulic fluid by pumping the clutch a few times, hold it in, unscrew that hose half a turn until you see the fluid come out- then screw it back on tight (to keep air bubbles out).

Did that a few times and opened up the clutch handle/lever attachment (which btw, that plastic gasket thing absolutely sucks) and saw there was still fluid in there. No matter how many times I bled the clutch fluid, there was still fluid in the handle/lever attachment (wasn't draining in the plastic circle mechanism).

What am I doing wrong? Sorry I'm new to all this. The lever still has no resistance and won't shift because of it. I'm on a 2010 TE 250 for what it matters but I'm guessing most of it is the same on whatever model.
 
henson802 said:
Alright, I had my bike in the shop for awhile. Finally get it back, and the folks messed up my clutch so there is no resistance on the clutch handle. It can't even shift gears now because it's basically useless handle.

So instead of bringing it back and probably get it more messed up, I decided to do it myself.

I have the fluid for the clutch. I was told to bleed the hydraulic fluid by pumping the clutch a few times, hold it in, unscrew that hose half a turn until you see the fluid come out- then screw it back on tight (to keep air bubbles out).

Did that a few times and opened up the clutch handle/lever attachment (which btw, that plastic gasket thing absolutely sucks) and saw there was still fluid in there. No matter how many times I bled the clutch fluid, there was still fluid in the handle/lever attachment (wasn't draining in the plastic circle mechanism).

What am I doing wrong? Sorry I'm new to all this. The lever still has no resistance and won't shift because of it. I'm on a 2010 TE 250 for what it matters but I'm guessing most of it is the same on whatever model.
Click to expand...
Ok, I just went through this with my 09 TE 250, pumping the lever to bleed it didn't work. As far as I'm concerned there are 2 ways to bleed the clutch. One way i'm told is to use a syringe and reverse bleed it, I don't use this method. My method is to use a mytivac hand held vacuume pump. It works. I open the master cylinder and fill it, put a wrench on a slightly tight bleeder valve, hook up the mytivac and start pumping, open the bleeder valve a little and keep pumping, look in the master cyl and watch the fluid getting sucked down and out the pump, don't suck it dry, keep adding fluid, close the bleeder before you stop pumping, after a couple of times doing this you should have a clutch that works, pumping the clutch lever as you pump the mytivac speeds the process, make a final tightening of the bleeder and clean up the mess. I just did this a few days ago. Mytivac hand vacuume pumps can be had at auto stores. Ask for a hand held vacuume pump.
 
I have bled mine both ways (pumping the lever and pumping fluid in from the bottom with a syringe). I prefer the lever pump way; it doesn't require 3-4 hands.

Pumping the lever to bleed doesn't have that same "pump up and vent" feeling that brake bleeding does, but the results are the same.

I suppose the syringe would be easier if I had one that fit the bleeder correctly. It keeps falling off, leaking, etc.
 
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