• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Cluster gauge doesn't shut off when wet

Judgie

Judgie

Husqvarna
AA Class
So I'm a year into a 2011 TE310 and on my second electrical issue. When out in wet/rain the cluster doesn't seem to want to turn off right away, even with the key removed. It does goes out after a few minutes but its very concerning that I could run the battery dry and have to hike the bike.

Any thoughts on where I should look for a short? And what it may look like?

Thanks

Joe
 
well, first of all: betcha your battery could power that thing for months. so I wouldn't fret that too much. ...and dont'cha have a kickstarter? or are you thinking about a dead-dead battery (0 volts) and you have no capacitor, IIRC? should not be a problem either way.

spray your big connector behind the number plate with wd-40 (also: when you disconnect it, first look for water/moisture). Also, the clear silicon gasket might be suspect if somebody has had the display apart ever. torn rubber button anywhere?

BTW, the TrailTech Endurance II display is bolt-on; you will lose the LEDs though. but the ergos and functionality are way better and it's only $45-$80. Your speedo sensor will plug in, IIRC.

My keyless TE310R instrument "cluster" stays on for 7-10 seconds after the engine is stopped. Do keyed TEs have that feature?
 
Judgie said:
So I'm a year into a 2011 TE310 and on my second electrical issue. When out in wet/rain the cluster doesn't seem to want to turn off right away, even with the key removed. It does goes out after a few minutes but its very concerning that I could run the battery dry and have to hike the bike.

Any thoughts on where I should look for a short? And what it may look like?

Thanks

Joe
Click to expand...

My 2011 TE250 does the same thing after I wash i, I push the red butter on the RHS and the dash turns off.
 
I do have a kick but I didn't think that would work if the battery was dead? Let me rephrase, I had previous issues with a loose fuse and it was draining the battery down to the 'I have to push the bike home' levels. The kick did nothing in this scenarios I just assumed if my battery was dead, so was my bike. I would love to learn that this is incorrect because I kind of feel that it's design is lacking to be dependant on a battery. There are just too many things that can happen out on a ride and it would be nice to have some reassurance.

I'll try your WD40 trick when the weather warms up a bit TrenchCoat, appreciate the tip. This definitely is not a feature of the bike like on your R, it non consistent and usually jibberish.
 
loose fuse problem: sounds like you had an open or maybe a short? either one might cause a major starting problem.

depending on what you're calling a dead battery- the kickstarter should work. hell, just try it next time. Someone around here claims that the EFI systems needs a minimum of 9v to operate, which could very well be true. That level of voltage will barely make the headlight glow yellow/orange for a short while; and it might be the fuel pump that is the most voltage sensitive. The bike should kick or bump start still, though.

btw, the Endurance works with the engine/key off too (internal battery). My cluster didn't work until the bike was making electricity which is a minor drag if you coast downhill but want to keep track of mileage.
 
I'm not sure if your 310 is the same, but my 08' needs the 9v minimum to operate the computer. If it falls below that, your SOL even with the kickstart. Really bad design feature. I wish it was like the Japanese motocross bikes that use a capacitor instead of a battery sometimes. There's requires one kick to energize the capacitor and the second kick is supposed to fire the bike up. But then again, those are motocross bikes that don't require lights and a dash to work.
 
268fords said:
I'm not sure if your 310 is the same, but my 08' needs the 9v minimum to operate the computer. If it falls below that, your SOL even with the kickstart...
Click to expand...

yeah, a 5 volt minimum would be better; Though I'm wondering however if the pump or coil would have enough energy at that voltage because, upon kicking, maybe the battery would absorb too much- rather than powering. So, yeah, a capacitor would be the way to go. My TE310R has a (D-cell sized) capacitor which I would *guess* is about 1000 or 2000uF. Maybe you guys could add one.

Judgie- if you're at 9volts your battery is pretty dead (but will still power the cluster for another month or two). Try kicking it when the battery drops below 12.5volts or so.

let us know how you do on the moisture hunt.
 
I'd really like to explore the option of adding a capacitor, especially if it will overcome the design flaw. Earlier this past summer before I found the loose fuse and burned out wires (off the stator) I would have been stranded without my riding buddies. The KLX450 I borrowed the battery from when mine went dead ran just fine on the donor. I wonder why Husky didn't account for this in the build.

TrenchCoat, did you add the capacitor or is it stock?
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
yeah, a 5 volt minimum would be better; Though I'm wondering however if the pump or coil would have enough energy at that voltage because, upon kicking, maybe the battery would absorb too much- rather than powering. So, yeah, a capacitor would be the way to go. My TE310R has a (D-cell sized) capacitor which I would *guess* is about 1000 or 2000uF. Maybe you guys could add one.

Judgie- if you're at 9volts your battery is pretty dead (but will still power the cluster for another month or two). Try kicking it when the battery drops below 12.5volts or so.

let us know how you do on the moisture hunt.
Click to expand...
 
Judgie said:
I'd really like to explore the option of adding a capacitor, especially if it will overcome the design flaw. Earlier this past summer before I found the loose fuse and burned out wires (off the stator) I would have been stranded without my riding buddies. The KLX450 I borrowed the battery from when mine went dead ran just fine on the donor. I wonder why Husky didn't account for this in the build.

TrenchCoat, did you add the capacitor or is it stock?
Click to expand...

my cap came stock (mounted on the bottom of the throttle body).

I'd like to point out, though, that nothing is going to help a bike that isn't producing electricity. You probably were riding on the battery all day... and it finally died, because it wasn't receiving a charge.
 
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