• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clear coat advice

J

jo360

Husqvarna
AA Class
Got myself one cracked subframe and summer heat is on its way so going to take time out and do another rebuild.
The frame will be cut and rewelded, seems to be a stress fracture from the po not putting the exhaust on properly and vibrating against the frame.
Looking at various frame mods might go with a black frame leaving powder coat white as primer also will be painting and clear coating the engine.
Anybody used kbs diamond clear or can recommend a clear coat highly resistant to petrol etc.
The iron ore dust seems to stick to everything and trying to get the engine and frame clean and is a real pita at one stage was even contemplating the frame being chromed or zp but decided against it.
 
SprayMax 2k clear #368 0061 ...... Have had good results using on both motors and tanks.
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I haven't used this product but people I've talked to who have say its good stuff. Even though its gasoline resistant I can't find any info about its temperature limitation. Will it hold up on a 1,000 deg. F header or even a 350 deg. F cylinder? I do think it would be great for the frame and tank.
 
I am partial to PPG Deltron paint & clear as it is flexible for plastic and resistant to fuel. I like PPG Omni epoxy for frames.
 
Local shop has a small can of the kbs diamond clear its single pack can be thinned with xylene when wet and is poured into a smaller container for use then resealed.
It carries a warning that once dry no solvent will have any cleaning effect on the product so all clean up must be done when wet.
Probably will yellow once expised to uv but wouldn,t matter so much on a black frame.
Will try it and report back.thanks.
 
Automotive paints hold up well to gasoline. The rattle cans don't do so well. I don't have the setup or the know how to use automotive paint.
 
Crashaholic said:
I haven't used this product but people I've talked to who have say its good stuff. Even though its gasoline resistant I can't find any info about its temperature limitation. Will it hold up on a 1,000 deg. F header or even a 350 deg. F cylinder? I do think it would be great for the frame and tank.
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The SpayMax suits fine on motor cases, and head,, doubt though it'll hold up on an exhaust.
 
Did a 80 km ride in dusty gravel conditions after painting the frame and engine using vht gloss black then clear coated using kbs diamond clear.
One of my neighbours races vmx but is in the middle of building three bikes and was itching for a ride so with my son upfront and my neighbour second we set off ,got pelted with gravel and dust so thought it would be a good test for the paint job.verdict: very impressed only chipping is around the kick starter where the lever has grazed the frame but this wore through the original powder coat as well, also spilled petrol and brake fluid on the engine cases which wiped off easily and had no effect on the finnish, i clear coated some of the fins on the cylinder and no effect from the heat, rims and hubs used white vinegar/sanding to etch then black etch primer then clear coat no signs of chipping and so much easier to clean as i said very happy and can fix any damage sustained down the road with a paint brush.
The bike is going to spend the rest of its life as my regular ride with some vinduro rides as well.
 
I also recommend ppg products ,if they are not available in Australia then Akzo Sikkens would be the way to go ,There autoclear is one of the best anywhere
 
+1 on the 2k Spray Max if you can get it. Very durable coating. Just be REAL careful shooting it and use a respirator.
 
Did a 80 km ride in dusty gravel conditions after painting the frame and engine using vht gloss black
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I've used VHT semi gloss on aluminum cases a few times and it always chips when the case screws where torqued with an impact screw driver and on the head fins when using a plug wrench. I used to use plasti-coat semi gloss and it did the same thing. I've looked into automotive paints but haven't found anything that states its resistant to chemicals and heat. I blast my stuff before an aluminum wash so I know its clean. Still looking for something that will work although maybe it doesn't exist now that we're more ecofriendly. I say this because the original HVA case paints where tougher.
 
original hva paints were powdercoat wernt they?
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I don't think so because all the cases and hubs I've blasted from the 60's and 70's came clean much easier than todays powders, but theres no doubt that original vintage hva paint is far tougher than todays rattle cans.
 
ppg 2021 is good shat, but its pricey. I have used the cheap shop line clear over spray cans on the grill on my dump truck and its holding up great even tho we have bugs here all year long that like to embed into the grills.
 
Baked on epoxy? Almost like a coating of jb weld judging by the paint on the inside of the clutch cover may have been fired with the cases fully assembled c/w clutch cover ...dunno.
Hva may have the answer.
 
As for clears I use a good urethane with a catalyst.As for case paint I've been using KG industries gun coat.It needs good surface prep(150 alum oxide) and their surface prep liquid.It is then baked cured.Works great for the hubs too.I use the satin,but may shades available.
 
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