• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Changing rear sprockets? How hard?

montanaman

montanaman

Husqvarna
A Class
I want to put the 40t back on my 2011 TE 250 as I am going to be doing more high speed trail riding and some pavement. ( the 50t is just to short ) How difficult ( or not) is it to make the change? I am about a 6 on a 10 scale of mechanical ability. Obviously the other chain goes on as well. Wondering what tools and any pitfalls to know about. Thanks
 
You'll need a high quality socket-style allen key that will fit your torque wrench, and the sprocket bolt heads. Use a good quality box-end wrench for the nut side, otherwise you'll be rounding those off in no time.

Use Locktite 243 on sprocket bolts. Finger-tighten sprocket on. Then torque bolts to 25.3 lbs/ft. in a criss-cross pattern.

Don't use a crescent wrench on your axle nut. Get either a closed end 27mm axle wrench or 27mm socket.

You may need a new master-link for your chain.
 
Just look at how things come apart and reinstall the same way. Check and recheck everything you do. They say you shouldn't re-use a master-link!! Sometimes I put chains on with a press to do away with the link. Can't say I have ever had a problem with a properly installed master link. Have fun.
 
Aaron8 said:
You'll need a high quality socket-style allen key that will fit your torque wrench, and the sprocket bolt heads. Use a good quality box-end wrench for the nut side, otherwise you'll be rounding those off in no time.

Use Locktite 243 on sprocket bolts. Finger-tighten sprocket on. Then torque bolts to 25.3 lbs/ft. in a criss-cross pattern.

Don't use a crescent wrench on your axle nut. Get either a closed end 27mm axle wrench or 27mm socket.

You may need a new master-link for your chain.
Click to expand...

thanks man.. I have everything but a torque wrench and an allen key that fits a torque wrench. Time to shop
 
That's a 20% change in gearing, and that is a BIG difference. Why not try going to a 14T CSS? You should be able to do that without a chain change. It's also 1/4 the price. You may even be able to squeeze a 15 up front. In any case, a CSS swap is WAY easier than changing the rear cog.
 
Hey Aaron8 you got more torque specs?
I'm putting together a list of torque specs for my 2011 310. I have been using my KTM specs in the mean time.
Thanx
Roger
 
MorrisBetter said:
That's a 20% change in gearing, and that is a BIG difference. Why not try going to a 14T CSS? You should be able to do that without a chain change. It's also 1/4 the price. You may even be able to squeeze a 15 up front. In any case, a CSS swap is WAY easier than changing the rear cog.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. I just did about 120 miles today in a lot of deep sand and fairly technical desert riding and I think I am going to keep the 50t on and take your advice and go up a tooth or two in the front. The motor feels like it is opening up as it now has 300 miles on it and I hammered er pretty hard today. I am kind of new to this type of bike and I get why the 50t is better for sand, uphill and slower technical riding. It just not good at hitting speeds over 60 mph for any length of time.

Is it pretty easy to change the front? Hate to ask but what does CSS" stand for..

Thanks again..
 
Quick calculation: Going from a 13T to a 14T will give: (Final - Initial)/(Initial)*100% or (1)/(13)*100 = +7.7% taller. That will give you a little more top end without sacrificing too much torque.

Also double-check your rear sprocket, you may discover that you have a 52 tooth rear. If you find that the 14T CSS doesn't give you enough top end, you can go to a 14/50 setup which puts you around 12.5% taller.
 
I'd also suggest using the CSS as a means of changing your gearing for different ride conditions. 13, 14 and 15 CSSs can really change the bike while hopefully still allow using the stock chain. With my TE510 it was a very easy swap.
 
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