• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Chain Lube

ray_ray

ray_ray

Mini-Sponsor
I'm usually not the one to recommend products other than to buy a Husqvarna, but I gotta say this is the ~best chain lube I have ever used ... Today I rode about 190 CLKs and the chain was still wet after the ride after I lubed the chain the night before... Some oil was tossed off the chain onto the bike but not alot and the cost of the bottle shown here was $12.00 ... It's gonna last quite a while because it takes very little to lube up the chain... It may not be best for sand riding as it might be too sticky but in most environments, this stuff should work great...

The chain pic is after the street ride ... I'm not even gonna lube it tonight before I ride tomorrow ...
 

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Moose now sells a light chain lube that sand and dirt won't stick to. Use only on Oring chains. Non Oring need a heavy lube.
 
I run Dumond Tech 4S motor oil in my Triumphs, the gear boxes love it! I haven't lubed an o/x-ring chain yet
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, just knock the chunks off every once in a while.
 
I'm running a non O ring DID and looked high and low for Duckhams Chain Lube grease. Did you guys get that? It was a big round tin and you put it on the stove with your chain in it and it 'cooked' the grease into the chain. It was awesome and re-useable over and over. Just can't find it anywhere...
 
Never heard of that stuff ... Sounds ok, maybe a little extra work, but I just hate removing and re-using master links ... I just had to run over to a riding buddy and get a master link clip from him so c an ride today..
 
There is no reason today not to run an Oring / Xring chain. A warmed up chain doesn't use a measureable amount of power to use. Lasts 10X longer and rarely needs adjustment. Your sprockets also last a lot longer which offsets the extra cost.
 
Vinduro said:
There is no reason today not to run an Oring / Xring chain. A warmed up chain doesn't use a measureable amount of power to use. Lasts 10X longer and rarely needs adjustment. Your sprockets also last a lot longer which offsets the extra cost.
Click to expand...

Agree, O rings are the best maintenance free option but I'm running with minimal clearance and the O rings run it that 2mm wider. Also I've run O rings for years and now I'm back on a 'smaller' bike love the split link and the fact I can pull the chain off and fully clean and lube it without all the hassle of breaking the chain. And they're cheaper and should last good with correct servicing.
 
Instead of buying chain lube, I just take the money I save and use it to buy replacement chains every 6000-10,000 km or so......
 
I colect the motor oil when I change the oil in my engine and after every ride when I wash down my bike I remove the chain and store it in the drum with used motor oil.

the day before I ride i install the chain and let it drip out for a while.

I use a non O ring chain and it holds OK this way.

in comparing with my friends bike that runs a O ring but that's a 250 I do have no complains about the durability of my chain/sprockets.

Robert-Jan
 
i pretty much stick to MX but i douse my chain with Kroil or WD40 every moto or practice moto. No exceptions. So figure my chain gets washed with solvent/light oil every 15-20 minutes of riding. Works really well in my opinion. Of course running a 125 helps too
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If running a O or X ring chain you can use a lighter chain lube. Moose now sells one as well as a heavier chain lube for non Oring chains. The lighter lube will condition Orings and protect the surface from rust and corosion. A Chain wax will work will for same purpose if you spray it on just after your ride when the chain is still warm and you give it time to dry overnight. Otherwise you will just collect dirt on the chain. You should always run the heavier lube and not a chain wax (chain wax is a good protectant but poor lubricant) on a non oring chain. I personally will not run a non oring chain on any of my bikes that I have clearance enough to run an oring chain on. There is absolutly no reason not to. You do not gain any measureable HP advantage. Oring chains are more reliable and last 10X longer. They are more reliable because they run truer on the sprockets and have less chain slap.
BTW, WD40 is a very bad lubricate for chains. No cushion value at all and I have heard of it deteriating Orings before. Never heard of using Kroil but I also doubt that is a good idea. Maxima MPPL and Belray 6n1 can be used as they don't attack rubber on Oring chains. Don't use them on Non Oring chains for anything but a water displacer.
 
I agree with your comment of WD40 being a bad lubricant for chains, in a long term sense. If you use it at the frequency i do it works quite well. It is more of a solvent than an oil in my opinion but it does have some lubrication properties. But that allows it to saturate quickly into the load bearing surfaces of the chain. I do not run oring chain so oring deteriation is not an issue with my application. http://www.wd40.com/faqs/ WD claims no adverse affects to rubber. I used to run motosport based chain lubes until i ran a two day race at fernley nevada sand track. Very long motos, two day format, 100% sand track. Not a patch of dirt to be seen. 2009 KX250F with the stock chain. I used the WD all weekend, after every practice and every moto. Never had to make an adjustment.
 
I spray my chain with WD40 after every bike wash to keep things from rusting. WD40 does not harm o-rings. I repeat, WD40 does not harm o-rings!!! If anything, it keeps them from drying out.
Somebody started that rumor many years ago, based on bad information. I wish people wouldn't spread it anymore.....
 
Lanolin Spray..penetrates really well cold, doesn't cost much but flings off a bit as it's rather wet.

Heavier chain lube's are crap unless you can heat the chain up so the lubricant can seep in which are more designed for roadbike's anyway or you follow the procedure of heating the chain up before spraying on...since most dirtbike riders spray their chain's cold i.e straight off the trailer, the heavier lube just coats the outside.
 
I try to let mine sit over night at the least one night and spin the wheel numerous times in each direction after adding the oil (I got nothing better to do) ...If I forget to lube up the night before ... I'll use some spray can stuff before I ride ...
 
If you could stuffed, the best way to lube the chain is to actually use an old pot, take the chain off and boil it with some diesel oil and then let it cool overnight....if you could be stuffed.
 
i have spectra/spectro? chainwax seems to work alright(only stuff ive used sofar) but the crap is a pain to get off the bike if you get it on there
 
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