CCT: 11 clicks out at 3k miles?

[restukey]

Bore was outstanding. Light hone and it is close to perfect. The valves didn't look like they were recessed so I left it at that. I got lazy and didn't want to disassemble or know. I would expect wear at 23k, but I can hold off looking for now. Piston had a lot of carbon buildup on top. I won't be running premium anymore. I took a dremel tool with some flexable soft bits to the top and cleaned it up. Carbon build up was bad, but caught in time. What happens is that the valves will eventually touch and rock the piston on contact with buildup and then bend valve. No issue now. Uptite says 30k miles plus on some he has without topend, believable. I almost have it back together, fingers crossed. I didn't feel any vertical play when tugging the conrod, but it sure has a lot of lateral. I've heard that isn't bad.

I have the new cam chain in as of yesterday. The tensioner has all the adjustment left this time with the bolt fairly extended and the chain taught. I can go to about 2 threads exposed on the tensioner when I am at minimum clearance on the chain vs. reed valve plate. Reed valve plate was loctited in 16k miles ago, but almost loose now. I thought the cam bearings had some play in them, so I changed them. The auto decomp spring on the cam was spent.

Radiator and the exhaust with new packing gets mounted tonight. I'll be back in action soon. This is the longest I have gone without riding this bike, waited for parts and sent cam out for bearings pressed.

 

[Rokon]

I have to admit I removed my ACCT wrong the first time and thought I would need a chain at 1700 miles. After much embarassment I rechecked it properly and came back at 6-7 clicks (depending on which ridge you start with).

I've now installed a manual CCT and sleep better at night.

 

[Xcuvator]

I made a extension for my ACCT, that makes putting the spring back in a breeze, when checking ACCT extended length, without pulling the exhaust out of the way.
The spring slides in, the push rod and then the original cap.
The pushrod makes compressing the confined spring much easier and eliminates any chance of kinking the spring.

 

[Fritzcoinc]

Bore was outstanding. Light hone and it is close to perfect. The valves didn't look like they were recessed so I left it at that. I got lazy and didn't want to disassemble or know. I would expect wear at 23k, but I can hold off looking for now. Piston had a lot of carbon buildup on top. I won't be running premium anymore. I took a dremel tool with some flexable soft bits to the top and cleaned it up. Carbon build up was bad, but caught in time. What happens is that the valves will eventually touch and rock the piston on contact with buildup and then bend valve. No issue now. Uptite says 30k miles plus on some he has without topend, believable. I almost have it back together, fingers crossed. I didn't feel any vertical play when tugging the conrod, but it sure has a lot of lateral. I've heard that isn't bad.

I have the new cam chain in as of yesterday. The tensioner has all the adjustment left this time with the bolt fairly extended and the chain taught. I can go to about 2 threads exposed on the tensioner when I am at minimum clearance on the chain vs. reed valve plate. Reed valve plate was loctited in 16k miles ago, but almost loose now. I thought the cam bearings had some play in them, so I changed them. The auto decomp spring on the cam was spent.

Radiator and the exhaust with new packing gets mounted tonight. I'll be back in action soon. This is the longest I have gone without riding this bike, waited for parts and sent cam out for bearings pressed.

What difference will the change to regular make?

 

[restukey]

Maybe less carbon buildup? My bike is jetted fine. Not sure why I had so much carbon buildup? It's possible that I need valves? Bike is back together and running and awaiting a new battery. Too cold for me to ride lately, high 20's on the east coast. Anyways, I don't think the bike has enough compression to warrant premium.

 

[sasrocks]

Resurrecting and old but useful thread. I finally located the removal instructions the service manual was lacking and wanted to thank MattR for the great writeup.

I will be checking the ACCT on my 08 w 3700 miles and a bit of racket from the left side to see what the situation is. Thanks again for a great, focused site full of information.

Cheers
Tim

 

[WoodsChick]

Resurrecting and old but useful thread. I finally located the removal instructions the service manual was lacking and wanted to thank MattR for the great writeup.

I will be checking the ACCT on my 08 w 3700 miles and a bit of racket from the left side to see what the situation is. Thanks again for a great, focused site full of information.

Cheers
Tim

You're welcome, Tim Good luck with the CCT.

Just for the record, after replacing the cam chain I've had no issues whatsoever. It is performing much better than the original one, much to my relief. And I did have to purchase a flywheel puller




WoodsChick

 

[jckid]

I checked mine at 3,850 miles. It was only 4 clicks out. I wonder why there's such a variance between bikes. Maybe this confirms that I really do ride like a granny.

 

[sasrocks]

just checked mine last night. 7 clicks at 3700 miles. them ridges are tiny! I took the mid pipe off to get it back on. Having tried once and the spring shot the bolt and washer across the garage. Yikes! don't wanna lose that sucker. I did lose the washer but replaced it figuring they are all the same thickness.

Its still apart waiting for an Uptite slipon and some other goodies, SO I will need to wait a day to see if the ting ting is still there.

 

[Rough Rider]

Having read a bit about the cam chain and the CCT I have a couple of thoughts that maybe worth pondering.

Has anybody considered whether the position of the piston in the cylinder has anything to do with the tension in the cam chain. My logic tells me that the cam chain will be tighter in certain positions than in others, for example when you set your drive chain you always measure it at its tightest position.

When I come to check my CCT I will check it with both inlet and exhaust valves closed, inlet open exhaust closed and exhaust open inlet closed and see if I get the same readings.

The other thing that I think needs to checked is the spring in the CCT, we all know that mass produced springs can vary a great deal in their tension, hense one of the reasons we replace our OEM fork and shock springs for better quality springs where we know exactly what the tension is. Having said that, does anybody have any idea what weight spring should be fitted to the CCT? Somebody should get a couple of springs from different bikes and have them measured for tension and see if all the readings are the same. When I changed and measured the OEM fork springs in my KXF the right hand side was a lot harder than than the left hand side, and niether was anywhere near where the manufacture said they should be. The possible difference in tension of the springs could explain why some bikes get more mileage out of the cam chains than others. It also may explain why the manual CCT's seem to do a better job.

 

[Rough Rider]

You're welcome, Tim Good luck with the CCT.

Just for the record, after replacing the cam chain I've had no issues whatsoever. It is performing much better than the original one, much to my relief. And I did have to purchase a flywheel puller




WoodsChick

I was wondering when you changed the chain did you compare the length of the old chain to the new chain? What I getting at is the chain really as badly streched as you thought?

 

[K7MDL]

I was wondering when you changed the chain did you compare the length of the old chain to the new chain? What I getting at is the chain really as badly streched as you thought?

Mine was quite stretched at 6K miles. I also shortened my CCT spring slightly to decrease the tension a bit under the theory it is too aggressive advancing the CCT an extra notch before its proper time.

Pictures here

This stretched chain on the left

Caused this reed valve cover damage.

I was able to file it off and reuse as the reed itself was just barely touched. Got it just in time. It was also noisy tipping me off that something was going wrong.

 

[Xcuvator]

Having read a bit about the cam chain and the CCT I have a couple of thoughts that maybe worth pondering.

Has anybody considered whether the position of the piston in the cylinder has anything to do with the tension in the cam chain. My logic tells me that the cam chain will be tighter in certain positions than in others, for example when you set your drive chain you always measure it at its tightest position.

When I come to check my CCT I will check it with both inlet and exhaust valves closed, inlet open exhaust closed and exhaust open inlet closed and see if I get the same readings.

The other thing that I think needs to checked is the spring in the CCT, we all know that mass produced springs can vary a great deal in their tension, hense one of the reasons we replace our OEM fork and shock springs for better quality springs where we know exactly what the tension is. Having said that, does anybody have any idea what weight spring should be fitted to the CCT? Somebody should get a couple of springs from different bikes and have them measured for tension and see if all the readings are the same. When I changed and measured the OEM fork springs in my KXF the right hand side was a lot harder than than the left hand side, and niether was anywhere near where the manufacture said they should be. The possible difference in tension of the springs could explain why some bikes get more mileage out of the cam chains than others. It also may explain why the manual CCT's seem to do a better job.

RR, the chain does have different loads as the engine rotates, but
after the ACCT adjusts the chain, it locks in that position. Any change in chain tension can only make it adjust tighter.
In other words: checking your tensioner in any engine postion will show the same thing.

As a side note,
I have had a MCCT installed for about 2000miles now and have had very little chain- stretch/wear.

 

[gasgaskid]

Hi guys, great info on the CCT, checked mine yesterday, at 6150 km, it was at 5 or 6 notches, actual width was 5.88 mm gap. Just wandering, what if you were to cut off 2 or 3 strands off the spring, or make a 2 or 3 mm longer washer up, and install it on the tensioner bolt. Thus putting less tension on the spring.
Also wandering how often would you have to check/adjust a MCCT?

 

[rockitdoc]

Cam Chain Tensioner Check

I just checked my new-to-me '09 TE610's cam chain tensioner. Here it is at the miles shown:

Looks to be about 6 'clicks' out from the end of the housing (0.225")? More from the pin. Reasonable, or too far out?

Thanks,

S

 

[MattR]

Looks to be about 6 'clicks' out from the end of the housing (0.225")? More from the pin. Reasonable, or too far out?

Mine was at 6 clicks for a long time. Here was my post earlier in this thread at 3800 miles. I'm currently at 8000 miles and mine is still at 6-7 clicks out depending how you count. Just check it at every oil change and reset it properly. You should be good to go.

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19740&postcount=7

 

[jellyrug]

Good tips in this old thread.

Just wondering about those with very low mileage who had to replace their cam chains? Did they perhaps lug the motor, riding at low rpm's?

I tend to keep the rpm's higher, don't go into 6th gear below 55mph.

It's deadly on the cam chain of a single cylinder motor if you lug, with a spark only every 2rpm's the motor experiences low frequency pulses.