• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Cause of bad clutch drag? wr125

Yellowfin

Yellowfin

Husqvarna
A Class
Mike bike sat for about a month as I was busy at work. Now that I have been able to ride my clutch is dragging really bad.

I have to give it throttle when I am stopped to keep clutch from stalling engine>

Any ideas? I tried to adjust it at the lever and its all the way out and still dragging.

Thanks in adavnced
 
If the clutch was working OK before you parked it, I can't see anything but the oil or plates being sticking together causing the issue... Simple attempt 1 change the oil ... Next go inside the clutch and clean the plates and fibers ... You can always sling $ at it and purchase something new.

Recently I had to work on a 3rd party clutching device on my bike and tore into a clutch for the first time ... If you have any mechanical skills, the work is pretty easy...So easy, I might go inside a standard clutch on my WR250 and see if the plates are dirty or the plates have notches cut on their top tabs that might need shaving off....

There are many here who have lots more experience on the subject matter than myself, so more clues should be on the way ...
 
As the aboves but beer first lol.
Had a bike do that once and although every thing looked good it was a broken friction plate, Couldnt see it upon inspection but on the second strip down I twisted the plates in my hands and low and behold one was broken, Not saying that is the problem but if the basket isnt grooved badly it maybe .
My huskys prefer ATF in the tranny/clutch and even start in gear easily compaired to the other types of oil I have tried.
 
I find that the first thing to go when oils due a change is my ability to select neutral.
Drain oil check plates, could of had the clutch over tensioned in the first place and streached the cable, wasnt resting on a wall with clutch in for a month?
 
IMG_0752.JPG
I ran out of adjustment on my 13 CR. I used an old aluminum cable adjuster thingey, by old I mean "70's" honda or yamaha,and slid it over the end of the clutch cable at the engine. I tried to send a picture from iPhone not sure it worked. Picture I mean. The other worked great.
 
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