• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Case paint removal Primary gear engines

dmcoz

Husqvarna
AA Class
Anyone have an efficient way of removing the original paint/powder coat ? from 81/82/83 etc primary gear engine crankcases ? the OEM stuff is on solid !!
 
If you blast with something coarser than beads be careful to not use to much air pressure. I've seen parts come out of the blast cabinet with pits especially on the early aluminum parts. Seems that some of those castings had tiny air pockets. I don't think the later magnesium parts had the same problem. Lower pressure with coarse medium takes more time but I think its less hassle than paint stripper. IMO glass beads are less effective on OEM coatings and at higher blast pressure they wear out quickly.

If you're dealing with powdercoat then paint stripper and a power washer is most effective unless its a part that can stand up to 500-600 degrees F then you can cook it on the bbq.
 
I would not use Black Max or glass bead on magnesium or aluminum. I learned the usual way after glass beading the clutch cover on one of my TT500 clutch cover It really tore up the magnesium even at a pressure of 60 psi, Shells are much better and softer.
 
I would not use Black Max or glass bead on magnesium or aluminum. I learned the usual way after glass beading the clutch cover on one of my TT500 clutch cover It really tore up the magnesium even at a pressure of 60 psi, Shells are much better and softer.

I use it all time on magnesium and aluminum 100 psi
 
I never had a problem on aluminum or mag castings with #8 glass bead other than it taking a while. Medium recycled crushed glass at low pressure and at a low impact angle works best for me. I'll admit when used at a high pressure and pointed straight at the work it can do damage. I tried walnut shells years ago, it was to wimpy.
 
spray on gasket remover works a treat too on any paint and some powder coatings.

super agro. wear gloves and glasses. i usually spray some in the cap and dab on with a small brush then neutralize in hot soap n water.

20180129_100724.jpg
 
spray on gasket remover works a treat too on any paint and some powder coatings.

super agro. wear gloves and glasses. i usually spray some in the cap and dab on with a small brush then neutralize in hot soap n water.

View attachment 86409
have you tried this on the swede black coating? that stuff laughs at some strippers..
 
nope i havent. just kinda tossing it out there. i normally use it for gaskets but it is great at taking paint off all the stuff i've tried it on.

McKay Carb Dip/Cold Tank cleaner is another that just kills any kinda paint in seconds. at my uncles machine shop i had a 100 gallon cold dip tank with that in there for VW cases and alum 4-banger blocks and heads and that stuff ate every spray on coating ive ever seen right off it. stinks too! yuk!
 
I surrendered for fret of damaging the cases trying to get the original coating off...... Ended up glass bead blasting, etch washed, and repainting.
Finished off with a 2-pack clear...... It turned out fine and is holding up other than where my boot constantly rubs on the clutch cover.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1070.JPG
    IMG_1070.JPG
    199.2 KB · Views: 20
Why remove the orginal black paint.? I’d rough it up with steelwool then put it out in the hot sun. Shoot it with a epoxy spray paint.

Try JEGS or brownells alumimum Hyde II
 
Why remove the orginal black paint.? I’d rough it up with steelwool then put it out in the hot sun. Shoot it with a epoxy spray paint.

Try JEGS or brownells alumimum Hyde II
it looks like crap that way. its very hard to break the edges of where the coating is chipped. the factory coating is super hard, have you tried doing it?
 
Not yet but you guys got me thinking about it now. I have a #2066 case that’s been ridden or dragged behind a truck that needs paint bad. Now it’s either gloss of flat black? What you say?

With epoxy spray paint I heat the part to be painted then it calls for a single coat of paint don’t put on heavy coats. Better to do multiple coats.
 
Back
Top