• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Carburetor help! TE410 2000

crispypancakes

crispypancakes

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys, so yesterday my bike stalled while riding a paddock, nothing too strenuous and i couldnt get it started on kick or bump. I assumed it was proper flooded after my numerous kick attempts and because it had shown no signs of any issues prior to the stall.

Returned to it today to give it a try, nothing. I put in a new sparkplug and tried again, still nothing. Had a poke around under the plastics and air filter to see if anything was obvious, thats when i noticed some hoses which look to have split and perhaps come off of something...

So my thoughs are that one or more of these pipes is essential to either fuel mix or fuel transfer to the appropriate place but not having am education in mechanics i'm left totally oblivious and the husky manual doesnt offer detailed pics to see where these pipes should go, if anywhere.

Does anyone have any info to share that might get my bike running again?

Heres a pic of the hoses coming from the Carb.
 

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Yeah.. I Had the 570 and the 610. These are the issues I had over the years. 1 the hoses on the carb should be clear and brought up under the tank . 2..Check valve clearance, 3.. Check stator for magnets spinning and windings shorting out.4..Go over all wiring, stop button. Check for broken wires, bad connects and shitty earths.5.. Check float height and condition of needle and seat.
 
So these three hoses should be unconnected? Two of them are split at the ends like they were connecting something. I'm not too mech savvy so i dont know there purpose or why one is much much longer than the other.

Any help on this would be great.
 
Those are breather and overflow tubes. The cuts on the ends are for freeing up blockage of dirt and mud. You should try to 're route then up out of the way to keep them dry. One of them that run into the side of the carb is prone to sucking in water and stalling the motor. Then it's a problem to start. If the bike doesn't want to go. Flick the choke on kick until it fires, no throttle. Turn choke off and it should go, no throttle.
 
Hey thank you so much for that, so thats eliminated one theory. Your suggestion about the choke is how i usually cold start the bike but thats not doing it anymore. I never need to give it any throttle on kick so i tend not to touch the throttle until im ready to cut the choke.

Tried a bump start yesterday from a fairly steep hill in second, the motor turned while the hill was steep enough but couldnt sustain it when it flattened out and subsequently died again.

I have reached the limits of my capabilities on the problem and probably will need to go to a guy. I also noticed that the kick now kicks from 2 oclock instead of 12 which is concerning me too. Could be just being paranoid. This bike ran fantastic and started on demand, its frustrating that now its not.
 
It sounds like it may be electrical. These bike don't have issue's starting. I would look at the stator winding resistances.
The Ducati ignitions are prone for problems... also check the cdi coil, plug cap screwed into the lead...
 
I had a 570 that just stopped for no reason. Checked every thing. Ended up sending bike to the shop. It ended up being a stator magnet had spun throwing out the timing. This is also a big issue with them. They pin them into position so they don't move.
 
Im gonna need to send it to the shop, the things you are mentioning are beyond my capabilities. I gotta say thanks for sticking with this thread and diagnosing possibilities.

Im thinking to clean the carb jets as a last option, you think that could be an issue?
 
The stuff you can do are easy things. New spark. Check the lead.. crank it over by hand and should crack a big blue spark. If not you either have short on the kill switch or faulty stator.. carb issue will mainly be, water or blocked needle and seat. Just undo the drain plug on the bowl.. like I said before. These bikes start super easy.
 
Ok so I removed the spark plug lead from the spark plug and when i kick it theres no spark to be seen inside the lead, much less a big blue arc. Also the bike sounds the same on the kick with the lead attached and with it not attached.

This means I have a short somewhere then? I will look into this now and check wiring etc. thanks for that advice man, wouldnt've thought to check the spark.
 
Stripped the bike down to review the wiring, I put another spark plug in the spark plug lead while it was not screwed into the cylinder, cranked it and nothing, no spark nothing.

Looking at the wiring after removing the tank and there seems to be nothing out of place, i even unplugged the left handlebar plugs to see if that made a difference, nothing.

The wires seem to go from the flywheel case to a small sealed box, i'm at a loss to work out how to test what component is faulty since theres no current until the bike is running.

All i know is there should be a spark when i kick the motor round, theres none, from there I dont know where to go. Once I have a spark, i'm sure the bike'll sing again.
 
The trick is to screw the plug cap back in... Make sure the end of the lead is in good condition. If not cut off a couple of mm off the end. Now screw the cap on nice and tight. Put spark plug into cap, place plug onto the engine head. The plug must be earthed to spark. Make sure your kill switch is not plugged in. Make sure it's a good boot you give it. I find it best to do it in low light so you can see the spark...
 
The coil and the cdi are one unit. Check all plugs for good connection, remove the stator cover. Try to see if the fly wheel.has crud behind it. It is quite common for corrion to set in. Most people don't let the moisture dry. And of coarse that starts the rift..
 
Don't be so hasty to sel it.... I still wish I had my 570. That thing did it all. One of the most stable bikes I have ever own. You could sit pinned the whole day and it would just keep going...
 
Ok so after your advice I ground the plug on the frame and it sparked beautifully. I opened the flywheel casing but since i dont have a puller i cant go any deeper, seems to be all dry rust free and the copper looks fine. If the magnets were loose the flywheel would spin in place without much force, am i right? It doesnt do that.

So now i have a spark, i can elliminate the electical issue. Should i step back to the carb?

There is no way in hell i'm selling this bike, she fits me perfectly and is just the right power level for my capabilities. This bitch is getting fixed whether i do it myself or send her to the shop.
 
So i just opened the carb bowl in place to check the jets, both jets are clear with no crud anywhere to be seen, the inside of the carb looks brand new. The bike is in more pieces than im comfortable with now and still am no further nearer the solution.
 
Ok further more i clipped the end of the lead as suggested and ensured i rescrewed it back on as tight as possible, i fixed it very tightly to the plug, rebuild the bikes tank, air filter and plastics then connected everything back up.

Kicked it and now i'm definitely getting a spark as i'm getting backfires and serious kickbacks from the bike, but no turnover. I think the lead was shady for sure, now it seems to be ok. But theres still the issue of it not starting.
 
I bet your woodruff key sheared when you stalled it. This times your flywheel to your crank. You will continue to get good spark but will be at the wrong time for the motor. This is a semi typical issue. When you do a hard pop and stall the crank stops quickly and even rotates backwards slightly, but real quick. If the flywheel nut is not torqued right the heavy flywheel keeps spinning when the crank stopped and the woodruff key that keeps them aligned sheers and throws your timing off. You can see spark but it is at the wrong time. Sounds exacly like whats going on here.

Remove the side cover, get the right puller and take the flywheel off and look at the woodruff key.

DSC05528.jpg


You can see the key here at the 10 o'clock position.

DSC05529.jpg


and here at 2 o'clock

DSC05571.jpg
 
Thanks very much for that info Motorsportz and the pictures, how can i replace/repair/reposition this? Is it a straightforward operation or should I have a professional mech look at it?

Do you know what size the woodruff key is on a te410? Can it be replaced by any key this size?
 
You just need the FW puller otherwise it is a simple job. Pop the cover, pull the FW, replace the key, put the FW back on, torque to spec. I think they are somewhat standardized but you want the right one or you will have this issue again. Also very important to torque it right to avoid this from happening again.
 
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