• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Carb problems.

paddy.t

Husqvarna
B Class
Morning chaps,

Ive just completed a full re-build of my 07 WRE; powdercoating, re-con barrel all neew bearings and bushes and all the rest of it.

Ive also completed installing the full power kit (previous owner had fitted some bits)

Im now having some trouble with flat spots in the power. 1/4 throttle was more or less nothing, so spoke to husky sport and got the correct positions for needle and mixture screw.
This made a slight difference but not a lot, still a big dead spot 1/4 to just past half throttle.
Wide open throttle is fine.

What im running now:
165 main
D50 needle on 3rd clip
5 slide
Mixture screw at 1.5 turns
Throttle position sensor facing down (wires closest to cylinder not fuel tank)

If ive missed anything out ill add it in.

Any help you chaps could offer would be brilliant.

Thanks.
 
Wre is not a common type of bike on here. There my not be much advice . If you do some searching through old threads there are a few pommies on here with them you private message if you wish
 
There's probably a wagon load of used factory carbs that new Lectron owners would part with. You would still have to jet it correctly
 
1/4 to 1/2 throttle reaction is controlled by the needle jet to some degree ... Move the clip up or down a notch on the needle clip and see if you get any changes in the bikes behavior ..
 
Thanks chaps, ive gone from 2nd clip to 3rd clip (husky said this was the correct position)
Ill move it another place up to the 4th clip and see what happens.

Cheers
 
gurgle/burble = rich.
hard bog = too lean.
idle to 1/4 = AS and PJ.
1/4 - 3/4 = AS, PJ, Needle and main.

go back to #3 on the needle. Go up one size on the main and PJ. start with AS @ 1.25 turns.
if you drop the clip past #3, go to a richer needle and start over. them last two slots are for "emergencies" only. most needles have a ton of richer/leaner cousins in very fine steps.

start by verifying your PJ.
check for good snap/strong idle not runaway like ging-ging-GING-GING!. adjust the AS to get some off-idle snap. if you go out more than 1.75 turns the PJ is too big. if yer in 1 turn or less on the AS the PJ is too little.
then putt it around 1/2 throttle or less. read the plug. hows it feel? if you are rolling on the gas very slowy and the bike feels smooth and wanting to go, yer getting close. if doing same and you whack it open and it falls on its face its too lean.
after you have safe low speed circuits: make a short blast on the main WFO/chop method. maybe 1-2 gears. read the plug. make adjustments if nec. repeat for 3 or 4 gears.

once you get the plug the same approximate, safe, color on low and high speed circuits, yer done! but, you have to read the plug. dont take anyone's jetting spec as gospel. notice i never hardly offer jet sizes? they wont buy you a new engine, neithe will i. start rich, then trim to lean SLOWLY. sht happens fast.


CHECK YER PLUG.
 
Just to expand on the plug checking at each RPM range ... You need to hold the throttle at a precise position (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, WFO) and let the engine run at this RPM and then hit the kill switch and let the engine stop completely... Then pull the plug and check its color ..

--
As long as I get a good idle and good mid-range to WFO,... unless something is really noticeable bad, I'm just not too concerned with the RPMs in that small area between above idle to just under MID ... Thats just no-mans-riding-rpm-range for me on my 250s pretty much ...
 
i like to putt around going up and down the gears with it @ half throttle or so with various loads on it. then pull over with it in neutral and let it drop to idle. sound good? no run-away idle? gettin close. repeat then check the plug. if it's a teensy bit darker than the WOT reading im safe. cuz when i whack it closed after a bomb run and start working the rocks and stuff it wont be forced to run on lean slow speed circuits.
 
Thankyou for all the replies, verry helpfull.
Ive put the needle on the first clip and have the air screw at 1 3/4 turns out and its verry nearly spot on in position. Still getting the odd slight bogg low down.
Where should i go from here?

Thanks
 
Throttle intermediate position
Should it be necessary to modify mixture ratio, from the idle position at about
1/5 of throttle valve opening, fit a valve with a smaller front drain side to enrich
it, and with a bigger one to lean it.
From approx. 1/5 to 4/5 of throttle valve opening, mixture is mainly adjusted by
the taper needle fitted on the valve itself and anchored by a retainer inside an
intermediate groove. Should it be necessary to modify mixture ratio, lower the
taper needle to make lean it and raise it to enrich it, by adjusting the groove.
 

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Thankyou for all the replies, verry helpfull.
Ive put the needle on the first clip and have the air screw at 1 3/4 turns out and its verry nearly spot on in position. Still getting the odd slight bogg low down.
Where should i go from here?

Thanks

gurgle/burble = rich.
hard bog = too lean.
idle to 1/4 = AS and PJ.
1/4 - 3/4 = AS, PJ, Needle and main.

go back to #3 on the needle. Go up one size on the main and PJ. start with AS @ 1.25 turns.
if you drop the clip past #3, go to a richer needle and start over. them last two slots are for "emergencies" only. most needles have a ton of richer/leaner cousins in very fine steps.

start by verifying your PJ.
check for good snap/strong idle not runaway like ging-ging-GING-GING!. adjust the AS to get some off-idle snap. if you go out more than 1.75 turns the PJ is too big. if yer in 1 turn or less on the AS the PJ is too little.
then putt it around 1/2 throttle or less. read the plug. hows it feel? if you are rolling on the gas very slowy and the bike feels smooth and wanting to go, yer getting close. if doing same and you whack it open and it falls on its face its too lean.
after you have safe low speed circuits: make a short blast on the main WFO/chop method. maybe 1-2 gears. read the plug. make adjustments if nec. repeat for 3 or 4 gears.

once you get the plug the same approximate, safe, color on low and high speed circuits, yer done! but, you have to read the plug. dont take anyone's jetting spec as gospel. notice i never hardly offer jet sizes? they wont buy you a new engine, neither will i. start rich, then trim to lean SLOWLY. sht happens fast.

CHECK YER PLUG.
 
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