• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Carb help 86 wr400

Rhodeislander

Husqvarna
B Class
I pulled bowl off the carb today to see what crud I might find. It looked spotlessly clean. The float seemed to be working well, passages clean.
So, here are my questions
How do I tell if the float is working? Can I simply blow air into inlet and tio carb upsides own to shut off needle? No air means she is sealing?
Any common things that go bad here?
It's a imun I, but at a loss for model. I assume 38?
Getting motor ready to put back together, carb seemed to work ok the one time I ran the bike. Seemed to flood pretty quick, hence the reason for restoring with a second ride.

One last thing, what do I look for in the condition of the reeds?
I see they look unbroken, but anything in particular to look at?

Thanks again guys!
Bud
 
Carb would be VM38 Mikuni. You can find starting jetting within the 81-88 Tech Bulletins in the Vintage Tech section much valuable info contained in 212 pages. Get some good carb cleaner and someone posted a video on youtube about setting the float height on that carb. Also test your floats by pouring fuel into the bowl and seeing that the floats rise and stay up for a long time. If one or both doesn't float you need to seal the leak or replace. Float needle may need be replaced if sealing surface has decayed
 
I have found very little weight difference in a large selection of the floats that come in this type of carb. I think 5 g for grams is molded into them but might be wrong. It might be possible to have a sinking float, I sure have had that with the soldered brass hollow ones and closed cell foam of sorts on other carburetors over the years.

Blowing and moving the little lever is a good test that always for me says works good. Buying a new needle and seat for that fuel inlet spot and using an in line filter has cured the flooding for me when the blow test seemed to show good. The needle isn't neoprene tipped it is just metal on metal and improvements are achieved with a new needle and seat when the old ones look quite well. I do have a rubber or neoprene tipped one for a briggs and stratton engine in my four stroke 510 that I never changed back after I found the problem with that was a siphon was started if you fall over just right.

You look for frayed corners on the reeds and that they sit flat against the part they are in. They can be flipped around. I really don't know if the origional ones should be replaced just due to age or not. I once had a flooded lower end and a guy pulled me and it eventually started after making popping noises etc. The next time I went riding a whole pedal broke off and the bike would start and idle but nothing else. If a pedal does totally break off and you are alone walking will result at least in my situation.

fran
 
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