Cannot get stem out of triple clamps (TE511)

[huskylove]

Trying to press the stem from my triple clamps so I can powder coat the clamps black (I am doing other things to the bike also) I set it up on the press, flat on a block of metal. Press directly on the stem with the press, I get some creaking but nothing. I am seriously worried that I will break something, and out of 10 times I have done this they always "budge" about 5-10mm then you can slide it out quite easily.

This is a 2014 te511. I have really put the pressure to it and it does not budge?!

Any tips? The oven will clearly bake the seal and bearing so I need to press the stem out to get the bearing loose. I "Know" better, as in I have done this enough times to feel something is wrong. If you lay the clamp flat bracing directly under the stem, press on the stem, there is about 5-10mm that the stem can go before it bottoms out. Usually this is enough for it to come "loose" I have pumped the press quite a bit and it does not freaking budge!

Any quick tips on this?

I have time so I walked away for a bit and will come back to it maybe tomorrow.

 

[reveille]

Freezer?

 

[tonskiguy]

I think heat on the brace

 

[Big Timmy]

Bottom of the triple tree should be solid and beefy around the boss that the stem presses into. First find a large socket or piece of tube just larger than the stems circumference and set it under the stem and then press it into the socket or piece of tube.

I wouldn't set the entire bottom of the triple clamp down on anything but something supporting the area just under the stem or you may bend something. Then apply a little heat and it should come right off.

It has probably been secured with something like No.690 Loctite sleeve retainer, a little heat on the aluminum part of the triple clamp and it should expand it enough to let the steel stem press itself loose. Try wrapping a freezing cold shop rag around the stem just after applying heat to the aluminum part, then get it to the press quickly to press it out.

 

[huskylove]

Thanks for the tips. I tried the socket trick and it still would not budge, actually dented the triple clamp a bit with the outline of the socket!

I am going to shove the entire clamp/stem in the freezer then heat the clamp with a torch.

I bet it is in with some Loctite, that's a good point! All my other bikes have been older so maybe they had been "broken" before.

 

[Xcuvator]

I'm sure you are on the right track using heat. I never try to push a stem out without it.
Using heat when you put it back together is a good idea too. Saves some shaving of the triple.

 

[Big Timmy]

That sucker must be really in there! Is the bearing off?
Let me ask? How hot does the powdercoating baking process have to get to adhere the paint on? If it gets anywhere close to 400 or so degrees fahrenheit, I wouldn't subject the clamps to the powder coating process or you will anneal them dead soft when you get done. They are heat treated.
Thats something to be aware of.
Also if you go forward to do this, how will you keep the paint out of the forkleg bores? If you can mask them off, you could do the same to the stem being left in place can't you? Just a thought

 

[huskylove]

Good thinking, unfortunately I will be baking them at around 350 degrees. And that is surface temp mainly. also they do not bake for long, once the surface reaches temp, they can be removed usually.

The problem is that the seal under the bearing will begin to melt at a very low temp, and the gasses from this will bubble the powdercoat, also any grease will cause bad imperfections.

I have done many many sets of clamps, and aluminum parts, also have taken bicycle frames and swingarms etc to other powdercoaters (my oven is only 20x20x20) and have NEVER had anything break.

In my exp. it would take more than 400 degrees to cause the cast aluminum to truly anneal and cause a proble,.

I am 99% sure that the seal under the bearing will melt before the powdercoat does. I always just shove the stem out and do the clamps alone.

I use this special silicone (maybe) tape to tape the inside parts, and you have these sillycone plugs that you insert in threads and pull through, they stretch and shrink down then expand and block the threads

If you see below I did the triple clamps, swingarm, muffler, and FORK TUBES! AND BOTTOMS! and had 0 issues until I sold it. That stem on that husky pressed out in about 5 seconds. Gave it a little 5mm bump then it pushed out with a rubber mallet.

reassembly I remember I froze the stem and everything went right together.

 

[Big Timmy]

Nice job, Thats a bad ass bike there in the pic too. Were those the stock Zokes you're running on that thing? They look massive.
Hey my Dad and Stepmom taught school in Oakland for 35 years. He taught shop, but retired in 95'. I grew up in Castro Valley myself. My Mom still lives in Danville.

You're right it takes about 430 degrees to anneal aluminum and thicker castings are easy to keep from overheating if you're using an oven.

I can't figure out why the stem hasn't popped out. Especially if it has already dented or displaced the surface of the bottom of the tree. So apparently the bearing isn't off yet? It shouldn't be holding it on or making it harder to press off you would think.

 

[Tinken]

BRP makes a really nice billet upper triple clamp for the 449/511. Fits up to the oem stem. Shown here with Scott's sub mount which is separate.

 

[huskylove]

Nice job, Thats a bad ass bike there in the pic too. Were those the stock Zokes you're running on that thing? They look massive.
Hey my Dad and Stepmom taught school in Oakland for 35 years. He taught shop, but retired in 95'. I grew up in Castro Valley myself. My Mom still lives in Danville.

You're right it takes about 430 degrees to anneal aluminum and thicker castings are easy to keep from overheating if you're using an oven.

I can't figure out why the stem hasn't popped out. Especially if it has already dented or displaced the surface of the bottom of the tree. So apparently the bearing isn't off yet? It shouldn't be holding it on or making it harder to press off you would think.

I have lived in the east bay for 5 years now. I like it, love riding up in the hills every chance I get (hence supermoto!)

My daily commute is from Emeryville to Lafayette/Orinda. So I can take the freeway and split lanes the whole way in nearly stopped traffic, OR I can go through the hills and cruise in without any traffic takes about 55 minutes. Takes about 30 on the freeway, but I have much more fun sliding around the wet roads!

I am not sure either, I really think maybe they use Loctite on them, but I am sure freezing it + head on the clamp will knock it loose.

That BRP top triple is nice, but unfortunately not really in my budget, also would rather get XTRIG triple clamps, and find some SMR marzocchi forks, and old style offset rotor + brembo radial caliper. That would put me in proper supermoto geometry in the clamp offset and fork bottoms.

All that is not in the budget atm. I pulled it all apart to mainly regrease the bearings with something other than the light coating of Crisco that comes stock! I also was fitting the SMR fender and fixing my loose gauge from the day it came home. Figured since im coating the swinger might as well do the clamps.....and here we are

My "mod" fund is still trying to recover from the warp 9 wheels, but I am doing as many little things to improve the bike as I can.

 

[huskylove]

Hey guys, left it in the freezer since like last night. Tried to press it and it did not budge.

I then applied heat to the clamp around the stem area, got it quite hot, was worried about screwing up the seal. DID NOT BUDGE. I gave it a full 2.5 pumps on the press which if you saw the press you would be astounded that I went that high. DID NOT BUDGE!

Now I am superbly pissed off and out of ideas. I am not comfortable putting more pressure on the clamp...

 

[huskylove]

Do the XTRIG triple clamps come with a new bearing and stem?

 

[Big Timmy]

They come with the stem as it is specific to their clamps and can be rotated 180 degrees and re-indexed to change the offset. I don't think you get the bearings though with them. You can't get the bearing off with out damaging it?

 

[Xcuvator]

Hey guys, left it in the freezer since like last night. Tried to press it and it did not budge.

I then applied heat to the clamp around the stem area, got it quite hot, was worried about screwing up the seal. DID NOT BUDGE. I gave it a full 2.5 pumps on the press which if you saw the press you would be astounded that I went that high. DID NOT BUDGE!

Now I am superbly pissed off and out of ideas. I am not comfortable putting more pressure on the clamp...

If you aren't comfortable, I would suggest taking it to a shop.
There just wasn't enough heat/pressure.
What were you heating with?
Does the press have a pressure gauge?

 

[huskylove]

I was heating it with a heat gun, then swapped to a propane torch. I am worried I am deforming the stem if I push any harder. First tried a block of wood with 2 nuts on the stem to help take the load off the end, well it just destroyed the wood block, as expected. Then pushed directly on 2 nuts flush with the stem.

 

[Kawagumby]

The lower bearing is still on, right? Try soaking the bearing contact area with liquid wrench over night. I've separated a bunch of stems and it always seems that the bearing is really where it gets stuck (steel to steel) - you can then heat the bearing inner race with a torch (the bearing will need to be replaced) to separate. I've yet to be able to save a lower bearing when removing a stem from the triple.

Edit: I've never pulled apart Husky triple, but a lot of jap units. On those, the bearing sits right against the triple...if your's doesn't...then disregard the above.

The other thing is that I've had the best luck with pressing out the stems when I can setup a socket and steel backing plates so there is no wood involved.

 

[Xcuvator]

I was heating it with a heat gun, then swapped to a propane torch. I am worried I am deforming the stem if I push any harder. First tried a block of wood with 2 nuts on the stem to help take the load off the end, well it just destroyed the wood block, as expected. Then pushed directly on 2 nuts flush with the stem.

Good idea using the nuts to push on. I have some pieces of brass and aluminum around the press to help protect things.
I use MAPP gas or acetylene/oxygen for heat. The idea is to heat fast before the stem heats and expands. Aluminum expands roughly at twice the rate of steel when heated so the odds are in your favor.
I still think you need to get a little more aggressive. Just make sure you are pushing straight and the clamp is well supported.

 

[huskylove]

I think I also need more pressure, but unfortunately it is starting to mar the end of the stem with the nuts. The aluminum factory top nut wont start threads now.

I am not going to say I know what I am doing. I will say I have seriously tried everything short of just maxxing out the press over and over again. I even checked the fluid, if the gauge worked that would help, but at this point im lost. I think maybe a larger press and more heat application would do better?

Also I realize the old husky special parts triple clamps are 15mm adjustable which would put my TE511 with 17" wheels right near a SMR wheelbase/geometry. Short of the fork bottoms I think it will really put me in the ballpark! So I may just max out a credit card and get those if anyone can find me a set! That and the beringer 6 piston setup will make this bike "right" as far as a real supermoto.

 

[hammer]

Put the stock nut back on flush with the top of the stem and then drop a long bolt down the centre hole of the stem to keep if from bending and push away.