• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Can you break the clutch or anything inside the motor kickstarting the wr300

apariah

apariah

Husqvarna
A Class
This bike seems to be driving me crazy. The most current issue is unrelated from how it started. I was rejetting the bike following a friend's instructions and found out I had the wrong pilot jet. And the starting jet was damaged. I had to remove it with an easy out, and even Halls couldn't get the factory one.

I put the old one back in until the replacement arrives and found the bike wouldn't start. I thought it would be hard based on reading that's what the starting jet did, but I eventually noticed the clutch wasn't disenging. I tried to bump start it. Thinking maybe it was draging I tried one of the adjustments suggeted by removing the cover and adjusting the center screw. Now it feels like the clutch isn't there even without the clutch pulled in.

I don't drink, but this bike is making me think maybe I should start. Is there any chance I broke something while kicking it. I heard a weird sound like a cluck, but I've heard that before when trying to start the bike.

It's confusing be cause I didn't touch anything realted to the clutch. And on a side note I rode the bike at red river and it was starting in gear for the first time. I regret even considering the rejet. But at this point I'm confused. Is this kind of thing normal or am I just having bad luck.

The previous owner did tell me once it got stuck in 2nd. But when i got the bike I just worked the shifter while rocking the bike and everytning freed up.

Also there is one section of trail where the bike sometimes locks up in a turn. It's fairly consistent of I keep the same speed and lean. But besides that I just don't get it.
 
It looks like this might be an issue too.
 

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Update I replaced the nut and righted it down all the way and the clutch is at least engaging again.
 
I removed all the slack from the lever again when in gear their is drag as normal. But when I pull the clutch lever in nothing changes its just like I didn't pull the lever. At the lever there is resistance, and I can see the pressure plate move as I pull the lever. But it doesn't disengage at all.
 
The clutch on this bike is notorious for dragging. Correct adjustment of the clutch hub screw is crucial. Start by backing off all tension on the clutch cable. Then adjust the clutch hub screw by bottoming it out and then turning it back about 1/4 turn. Lock the nut. Then adjust the cable. Also, use a Motion Pro Terminator cable instead of the flimsy stock one. The Terminator has a housing that resists collapsing when clutch pressure is applied through the lever. It will help, but will not eliminate the drag. Also, you may have a problem with the water pump seal, since the transmission oil looks contaminated.
You should be able to use a #32 or #35 pilot jet and a #80 starter jet. I am running JD jetting kit also. The bike stock , is very unsorted, but once you get it dialed in, it's a very nice runner.
 
You don't know this, but you're my idol for all things riding related. I'm already using that cable based on your esrlier post. I will try this after dinner.

Dirtdame said:
The clutch on this bike is notorious for dragging. Correct adjustment of the clutch hub screw is crucial. Start by backing off all tension on the clutch cable. Then adjust the clutch hub screw by bottoming it out and then turning it back about 1/4 turn. Lock the nut. Then adjust the cable. Also, use a Motion Pro Terminator cable instead of the flimsy stock one. The Terminator has a housing that resists collapsing when clutch pressure is applied through the lever. It will help, but will not eliminate the drag. Also, you may have a problem with the water pump seal, since the transmission oil looks contaminated.
You should be able to use a #32 or #35 pilot jet and a #80 starter jet. I am running JD jetting kit also. The bike stock , is very unsorted, but once you get it dialed in, it's a very nice runner.
Click to expand...
 
Is there anlternative water pump seal? I'm not seeing one for the WR. From what I've read the TE engine is completely different.
 
apariah said:
Is there anlternative water pump seal? I'm not seeing one for the WR. From what I've read the TE engine is completely different.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is not like a four stroke model. It i s an o-ring. The part number is discontinued. I guess you would have to hunt for an o-ring of the same dimensions.
 
I made some progress, no coolant lost, its still full. I was also able to get the bike started. It kicks like ive wronged it somehow. But the clutch acts like it's not even there. Although once I put it in gear and it took off slowly. But the clutch lever did so anything.
 
apariah said:
I made some progress, no coolant lost, its still full. I was also able to get the bike started. It kicks like ive wronged it somehow. But the clutch acts like it's not even there. Although once I put it in gear and it took off slowly. But the clutch lever did so anything.
Click to expand...

Pull the plates out, separate them, clean them, put fresh transmission oil on them before reinstalling them. Pull the clutch lever in and operate the clutch with the cover off, so that you can see movement.
 
misunderstood the adjustment instructions. I thought about what it was doing removed the clutch cover and readjust the screw and the lock nut. I flushed it with fluild several times. And now its better than when it was delivered. The fluid was also clear of coolant. I'm hoping to take it out for a ride tomorrow. Thank you again for everything.
Dirtdame said:
Pull the plates out, separate them, clean them, put fresh transmission oil on them before reinstalling them. Pull the clutch lever in and operate the clutch with the cover off, so that you can see movement.
Click to expand...
 
I'm excited to be riding the bike again. It's bogging a bit around 1/4 throttle, but overall its great. I'm thinking the carb is going to need a rebuild due to it leaking fuel when just sitting on the kick stand, but at least it starts and rides.
 
apariah said:
I'm excited to be riding the bike again. It's bogging a bit around 1/4 throttle, but overall its great. I'm thinking the carb is going to need a rebuild due to it leaking fuel when just sitting on the kick stand, but at least it starts and rides.
Click to expand...

1/4 throttle bog is about the least likely characteristic for that bike to display!:eek:
 
Could I have a couple of separate issues.

One of the videos I watched gave the impression that its actually lean through 1/4 throttle. I'm using a 30 pilot jet with a 450 main, and on the second clip from the top on the needle.

And then I saw post about an issue with the fuel block and or float needle that can cause the fuel over flow. The needle felt fine, but I didn't know to check the fuel block gasket. I was going to wait until the rebuild and gaskets to come in before pulling the carb back out.

Dirtdame said:
1/4 throttle bog is about the least likely characteristic for that bike to display!:eek:
Click to expand...
 
All of the parts came in, and now the bike runs well. I'm using the 80 starter jet, 450 main, and 35 pilot. The needle is on the third clip, but it doesn't look stock, it has a smooth taper all the way down, no steps. Overall Its seems to be working really well.
 
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