• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Built a chain guide for the 511 today

sailah

sailah

Husqvarna
A Class
Was waiting on parts to put the bike back together and needed a chain guide as the stock plastic thing had destructed long ago. I was ordering parts from Halls and ZipTy today and thought about the TM Design Works but thought I could do better. So I mocked up a model basically duplicating the Husky chain guide but made for 3/16" 6061 aluminum.



I cut the parts out on the waterjet and they lined up perfect the first time. I won't lie and say I didn't print out a couple full size parts on the laser printer to check alignment though haha





You can see where I added a plate and TIG welded it to the bottom. I'm redoing that. So I extended the bottom of the guide the thickness of the plate in the Inventor model so the welds will be on the bottom. But the trial version did bolt right up to the swingarm just like factory and holds the stock plastic guide just like the original.

I will probably end up powdercoating it to match the swingarm although I might anodize it as I have a run of axle wrenches I need to get hardcoated. But I like powdercoating, it's easy.
 
Bloody good job there mate. Well done. Please show the finished product. I do not think powder coating is the way to go.
 
danny318 said:
Now everyone is going to want you to make them one
Click to expand...



Haha well, I could be convinced to make a couple, doesn't take but a few minutes of waterjet time. I'm trying to figure out if it's better to weld the bottom plate on or possibly bolt it in case it needs to come apart or needs some wiggle room on the install.

Regarding the powdercoating, I have been making some custom axle wrenches for my local riding buddies, mostly 32/27mm type and I even made a custom Husky version with 27mm on one end and a 12mm hex pressed in on the other. I sandblasted the wrenches and had the anodizing shop do a sample. I'm convinced that unless your part was a machined surface, anodizing looks like crap. And I have no intention of machining the surfaces on this. anodizing over a sandblasted surface looks pretty cool, you can see the wrench I did. Makes it non-slip. But for something like this, the powdercoating is easier (I have access to a booth and already have the stuff, anodizer is a $75 minimum). Plus it will match the textured finish I did on the swingarm. I might even do it white if I'm feeling frisky.

 
Very nice work. I prefer the plastic ones like TM Design and BRP make. Take a hit and dont bend. Also all plastic so dont wear through to the aluminum part.

As for the wrenches if you powdercoat you'll need to tape off the insides of the bolt area as powdercoating is thick. If you have them R5 "Brightdipped" before anodizing they should come out very nice. Thats what I would do. Ano is much more durable as well.
 
I hear you on the plastic, makes sense. I guess I could make another one out of plastic but I'm over this project took way too long just to make one haha

I redid the model and extended the sides down an extra 3/8" so I could drill and tap a spreader instead of welding it. Came out just like I wanted.

Mine broke because it fell off the stand when I had the rear wheel off and slammed down on the guard, snapped the outer half off. I don't think that will happen with this one. If it does break off the tabs I have a TIG welder.



 
Motosportz said:
Very nice work. I prefer the plastic ones like TM Design and BRP make. Take a hit and dont bend. Also all plastic so dont wear through to the aluminum part.

As for the wrenches if you powdercoat you'll need to tape off the insides of the bolt area as powdercoating is thick. If you have them R5 "Brightdipped" before anodizing they should come out very nice. Thats what I would do. Ano is much more durable as well.
Click to expand...

I'm just getting them hardcoated, dropped them off today. I tried powdercoating the prototype but the thickness is too hard to control and forget taping off the insides. I do like powdercoating stuff as I have access to a large booth and a huge oven anytime I want.

I have a big raytheon power supply and was looking to start doing my own anodizing but I don't have the space to store all the buckets.
 
Husky actually makes that aluminum part for about 20 dollars, it is a little thinner. It is from the earlier motocross models. Same problem though as all aluminum ones it bends when hit by rocks and logs, that is why they went to the plastic frame, but it is to brittle. I know a few guys that actually just run the inside plastic insert.
 
TM Designworks is ZipTy unit of choice. I actually prefer the BRP Racing guide which is new and updated. A couple to look over if you decide later on to change.

subcat-rear-guide-RCG-HUQ.jpg


BRP__Pro_Line__C_5167562c8f446.jpg
 
umm if youve got a waterjet cutter then if you were inclueded you could cut it out of any material, hdpe included, have it bolted on to a fat wedge of the stuff on the bottom and there you have it.

very nice work btw :thumbsup:
 
I don't personally have a waterjet, but I have access to one any time I want. Cost is $2/minute when the pump is running. Those side plates took about 2:30 each but I slowed the cut speed way down to get a nice finish. I probably could have cut them twice as fast. Also cutting all the little cutouts and the holes takes time as the waterjet needs to pierce the plate for each hole and that eats up time. Since I have the model I might do one out of HDPE. The only other operation is there is a little milling on the side plate so a tab can clear but that's fast.

Speaking of waterjetting...anyone think of a cool Husky project for the waterjet? I might do a skidplate but open for ideas or ??
 
I've cut 1/2" plate. It's not even sweating. Like was said the tolerances start going away and/or it slows way down. It's a pretty big table and I think the z travel is around 6". I I saw someone cutting 1" stainless and it was painful slow.
 
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