• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Broke a screw while changing oil...

Trdollarhyde

Husqvarna
B Class
How much am I about to hate my life? Here are some photos of what I'm looking at.
1.jpg

2.jpg

Honestly I am such a freaking idiot. The worst was that moment you hear that snap, and everything just goes loose, and your heart STOPS. F me right about now.

Also, this sticker on my fridge seemed relevant.
3.jpg

Pretty much, how do I get it out.

EDIT: Something wrong with photos, one second.
 
Call "the guy". He will have it out in seconds. I tried to do it myself to the same bolt on my bike and made a mess of it and made it harder for "the guy" to fix it. It is quiet cheap. Just do a search for mobile bolt removal or mobile thread repair in your area.
 
SMR570;131027 said:
Call "the guy". He will have it out in seconds. I tried to do it myself to the same bolt on my bike and made a mess of it and made it harder for "the guy" to fix it. It is quiet cheap. Just do a search for mobile bolt removal or mobile thread repair in your area.

I find it funny that we broke the same bolt. Thanks man, this was the last thing I was expecting to happen while doing a routine oil change.
 
SMR570;131027 said:
Call "the guy". He will have it out in seconds. I tried to do it myself to the same bolt on my bike and made a mess of it and made it harder for "the guy" to fix it. It is quiet cheap. Just do a search for mobile bolt removal or mobile thread repair in your area.

I searched google for 'the guy' and I'm certainly not clicking on those links!


Is 'the guy' an Australian company?
 
I broke one of the front fork pinch bolts, PITA to get it out. Here is how I did it:

lots of penetrating fluid

small dia drill bit into centre of bolt

pushed an "easy-out" (a reverse threaded bit) into the hole

Easy%20Out.jpg


backed out the bolt

This worked for me, I was real worried when I did it but it turned out OK.

Last, after you get it out: install the 7602 oil drain kit and never take that bolt out again.
 
Mr Sleazy;131050 said:
Last, after you get it out: install the 7602 oil drain kit and never take that bolt out again.
$75.00 for some aluminum and some bolts? God I had specialty parts.

Also, how much is a new radiator? My left radiator is all twisted and skewed to hell.
 
Trdollarhyde;131051 said:
$75.00 for some aluminum and some bolts? God I had specialty parts.

Also, how much is a new radiator? My left radiator is all twisted and skewed to hell.

The kit for the drain plugs is very nice. Everything is 14mm. I replaced all of mine after I stripped the allen head on the front screen cover. All better now.

Radiators go for about 130/140 bucks for the good ones (Toyo) and around 100 for the stinky ones (Alexon).
 
Colo moto;131096 said:
Take it off, pack it up, and send it to Mylers radiator repair. $35-$45 bucks and it will look like new. Very fast turnaround also. http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/

Another vote for Mylers. the radiator will come back looking like new. I have used them 3 times over the last 10 years and it is the same thing every time! Good service and fair price.
 
If you are going to attempt this yourself, pony up a few $$ and buy one of these:

http://www.skygeek.com/ats-1341s.html

It's designed to drill out bad rivets, but it's a great thing to have even if you don't work on aircraft. The way it works is the various inserts center the tool on a hole, counter sink r rivet head. Then the drill goes exactly down the center of the rivet or screw or whatever. AFte you have a hole in the center of the bolt, you can use an easy-oout to extract the broken screw.

I've drilled out a of of rivets with mine, but I also use it for centering screw holes in door hinges.

Left hand twist bits are another handy thing to have.

A torque wrench is also a good investment. There are torque screwdrivers for the small stuff.
 
If you are feeling confident you could probably get this out with a fine centre punch ,just put a pop in the outer edge of bolt then tap the punch at an angle to the bolt so that it produces a turning force if the bolt is not rusted in or seized it will start to turn (make sure you hit it in anti clockwise direction ie undo the bolt).may save you a few dollars.I have done this many times on all soughts of applications especially when high tensile bolts are used.
 
easy outs are crap! they can cause alot of headaches if they snap. Google Bolt Removal or Thread Repair. Trust me, get a professional. Cost me 110 bucks to get it out and he had to repair the thread, IF I called him from the get go, it would have cost me $40 with no thread repair and straight back in with the same sized bolt. I'm no backyard boy either, I am a stainless steel fabiractor by trade and use taps to thread stainless every day, Alimunium is soft, one slip and you will be calling the professional anyway.
 
If you are really worried about these bolts coming out ...just use some that thread tape on them ... It will not lock the bolt in place for next removal and it will prevent the bolt from backing out all the way .... IF it was too get loose, the ~worst that will happen is a small leak because the bolt should be held in place by the thread tape ...
 
I did a bit of googling and oddly enough many Australian shops showed up. :)

Yet another idea would be to call auto repair places and auto parts stores, they are everywhere.
 
There's always more than one way to skin a cat , so dont get too worried the worst case senario would be to drill out and fit a helicoil insert again cheap and effective.Being an aluminium casing it would be unlikely to bind like stainless does,easy outs do work if used in the right application .Just ensure you centre punch the bolt in the centre so that your drill is centralised and use the correct size drill for the easy out.
 
I agree with Rusty Nuts. Been there, done that many times on the job. Try the small sharp punch to back it out. Don't mutilate it so bad that you can't drill it in the center if needed. You'll know pretty quick with the first few licks if the punch gig will work.
 
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