• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Break-in for new motor

My dad used a to work @ a engine plant also, same thing dyno room full power in 5 seconds, if it's gonna go its gonna go. I saw a thing on ultimate factories on Ferrari & they beet the snot out new cars.
 
Slowpoke;82108 said:
Here's what works;
(don't waste your time with the dealer or manual suggestions)
When the bike is brand new, start it up & let it warm up fully before riding. Then hop on, pull out on the street and pretend the cops are chasing you for about 20 minutes or so. Accelerate hard thru each gear up to about 80-90% throttle, then downshift thru the gears, slowing down using lots of engine braking. Then back up thru the gears, and back down again. Repeat this a bunch of times for about 20 min or so.

When you get home, change the oil and go have a beer.

Use a good full syn oil and change at 10-15 hr intervals from there on.
Click to expand...

Thats about the break in method I used on my '05 TE510, I've got about 15000 miles with zero motor issues. I changed the oil when new after 20 miles, then around 50 miles more, then around 200 miles, then about every 300 miles give or take 100 miles, worked for me.
 
Well I have been in the German automotive dealer and industry for 44 years and everybody is an expert. I have droped oil at 50 miles, then 300, then 1000 and have had Audi say leave the same oil in for 5000 miles. What????? The machining of today is so much more precise. The best engines I have had are the ones I just drove normally sane, no abuse, no over heating and they never used oil and ran tops. There are break-in additives and try to find actual breakin oil? Now we even use 0w20 in some cars. Bmw Motorrad used 20w50 start to finish on $20K bikes. One thing is for sure, pistons and cylinders need to seat in and continual fresh oil hinders the process. Fact..I will agree on petrolium oil at first, but what did Husky put in it??? Remember it is owned by BMW..Ya, everybody wants to be an expert..many Mercedes have 300k miles on them? I had Hondas in the old days and did the pure oil baby break-int proceedure........not all this worked..not all engines run the same. Just enjoy your ride..anythin can be fixed....LIFE IS SHORT************************************************************************************************************************!!!
 
I agree with the faster break in. I did that on all my bikes and never have had an engine failure. I accelerate hard, and de accelerate hard. Never let it get hot(over heat) and never run it wide open or hold the revs. Just constant on and off. Itll pretty much be all done in the first hour or two. IMO

Im flabbergasted at the 600 mile break in periods. Riding single track thats........... many many tanks of gas. Just think, if you averaged 4000 RPM over 600 miles @ 40 MPH thats 3,600,000 complete revolutions. And thats what it takes for your engine to be broken in??? After a few of those my bike around the engine is wrecked and im looking for a new bike.(not quite)
 
what's funny about people comparing car w bikes, i don't know any cars running chrome bores, or with cyl walls as thin as a bikes. do show us the clearance comparisons on a car vs the bike.. plz... the guro recommends a long break in, and his success w reliable engines bodes well for following his advice. if you saw all the seized bikes zip-ty had with his style of break in, perhaps you might follow georges advice too !!
 
my breakin was 100 freeway miles from dealer.. oil changed 300 miles. 600 and 1500. ill change it again at another 1500 miles.. after that its every 2k miles.. oil filter with every other change..

my rpm was under 5.5k switching through gears etc.. at 600 miles i rode the bike normally.. meaning mashing through gears and rpm..

there is no real ryme or reason which way is better.. im sure the bike heat cycled enough.. i changed the oil mainly to get the particles of metal out.. shit happens no matter what or how we do things.. im sure 15 to 20k miles down the road. if my engine gives.. im not going to think.. "well shit maybe it was because how i broke in the bike"..

most people will crash or sell the bike before 10k miles anyway.. just enjoy the bike
 
Seating the rings properly is probably the most important thing on a new engine. You can't get that from idling and heat cycling. Break it in proper at your favorite riding spot!
 
Acidean said:
LMAO, was just about to paste that same link Freaky ;)
Click to expand...

Great minds think alike!! :cheers: I've had that link saved for years, it's an interesting read and it's how I run my bikes in with only good results. I have indeed had problems whilst taking it too easy on the break in, excessive oil consumption due to the rings not seating being the most common.
 
As just my 2 cents on break-in; Both my race engines were rebuilt, and then break in runs were conducted on a dyno for 15 minutes, then proceeded to carb set up and HP runs. The next time the engines ran, they were raced. I havent done any leakdown tests yet. Both engines have about 15hrs on them.
 
5-600 miles isn't a slow breakin.

I don't personally know the Mototune guy but I do know someone that built/builds Baja racers that survive (and win) the race and I think his advice is a bit more persuasive (wow, look at all the trophies) than a web page with pretty pictures.
 
Well, personally I haven't had a new motorcycles since I was 2 (true story) and back then I didn't really understand the "break-in" thing... lol In the end everyone has their own opinion, whether it is to nurse it into existence, or to ride the living daylights out of it... I'd say, everyone should use the process which gives them peace of mind and peace of heart... regardless of what that might be :)
 
if its used as a race engine you would spend half the piston life running it in!!!
advice from engine builders of race engines waswarm it up then 15 mins use with plenty of acceleration and deceleration to load both sides of the pistons (but not prolonged WOT use) then switch off and leave to cool stone cold. ie overnight. then repeat next day for 30 mins, eh viola its ready to race. its important to allow to cool stone cold as this will allow and tight spots on piston skirts to be scuffed off on next start up (not that there will be any with modern metals and machining tolerances. how else are you gonna do 500 miles on a mx bike to run it in!!) remember raceengines are stripped and rebuilt at least once a season and rings if not pistons and rings are replaced as a matter of good practice.
im sure all new engines will have had this sort of hard run in done on the dyno in the factory. the carbon seal on the top of the bore which prevents high oil consumption will only happen if mineral oil is used for the breakin as sythetic has too many additives to allow any carbon buildup.
 
I'll add one thing here my dealer mentioned and it's fairly specific to 4 strokes motorcycles. That oil in the engine circulates and services the clutch and transmission too. Very different from cars. He's come to conclude that you have to look at these engine/trans/clutch combinations as organic and thus break-in is modified slightly. Second piston that goes in just gets ring break-in, not the NEW ENGINE one.
 
Seen AMA superbike motors come off bench put in frame, frist start was on dyno.
Couple slow pulls then run and tuned for peak HP for at 10 to 15 hard pulls. Then oil drained and put in transporter to head out to races. And then run four five races and tuning dyno runs, before tear down and parts look new after apart on bench.
Was told heat cycle then run it drain oil. Race.
 
I am not an engineer or a mechanic.

I changed the oil at (kilometres) 150, 500, 1000, 2000 etc. When I "broke it in" I didnt flog it, nor did I labour it, just rode fairly normally. My motor has just under 5000km and is in tip top condition.

The frequent oil changes make sense. Even know it was clean it had some particles in it which aren't good for motors...
 
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