• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc brakes

N

nir

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just replaced my fluids and pads on my wr300 front brake and the wheel is not spinnig free. The pads touch the rotor. Is it normal??
Another thing, is dot 3 fit the bike or only dot 4? Thanks
 
did you push the pistons in all the way? was it hard to slip the caliper over the rotor? is it tight after trying the brakes?
DOT 4 is correct, it has the boiling point to match your equipment, you should always consult the brake system, it is usually listed on top of the master or in the owners manuall
 
Definatly not normal, Did you make sure the caliper was free to slide !! If you pop the front wheel out the caliper should slide left to right easily if not you will have to strip / clean lube it. If its not totaly siezed it can give a horrid lever pull like the brake need bleading and lacks bite.
 
It was hard to slip the rotor back in. The pistons was very hard to move. And like johnnyboy said, the lever do feel like the braks need bleeding. I did bleed them today because of that...should i check the caliper?
 
did you clean the caliper when you were swapping pads? this is most definitely not normal and suggests sticking pistons.
 
typically you only install the pad on the pistons side and use a clamp to push the pistons in then install the opposing pad install the caliper and pump the brakes at this point they should feel firm and after you release the lever they should free up the rotor to turn
if the rotor is still not free the pistons need attention
 
You need to remove the top off the master cylinder when pushing the pistons back into the caliper. This will keep pressure from building up inside the system...

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You can remove the pads and pump the pistons all the way out and spray some lube on them and then remove the cylinder cap and force the pistons back in place. Watch out for drip from the overflow. Brake fluid stains alot so wipe it off anything it get on.

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There is the case where the brake mounting bracket is frozen on the caliper housing ....This is a real problem and will ruin the disc or worst.
 
Few times on mtb and the moto do wheels roll completely free of the pads. That said a spray of half distilled water and alcohol can help clean pistons in the calipers after pads are removed and you carefully extend the pistons... Then wipe with a rag, swabs, etc.. I then will put a few drops of tri-flo on the piston for the seals and cycle pistons in and out holding one with a large flat bladed screwdriver so I can see how each piston is working. In the end slight touching is normal as long as the wheel is free. The light touching is annoying but many times a sticky seal or some dirt that loosens and remedies itself on use. As well, a sliding caliper may be more symptomatic.
 
Here is a pic of the grooved slot on the brake caliper that the disc rotates in. This small slot is where the sliding pins allow the 2-piece brake apparatus to center and ride at. If that disc is not riding pretty much in the center of that slot, you have an issue with the sliding pins most likely.

106_0230-jpg.33692
 
If the pins and all else seem OK, you may just have too full a master cyclinder and as Ray_Ray suggested above, maybe loosen the cover and remove a small amout of fluid. The piston may not be retracting as much as it could.
 
I think the problem is that the piston are not coming all the way back.. also, i remove the pads and push the lever and the pistons came out one at a time... i replaced the oil to dot 4, but do i need a special tool to do that or it just like bleeding air out? Thanks
 
nir said:
I think the problem is that the piston are not coming all the way back.. also, i remove the pads and push the lever and the pistons came out one at a time... i replaced the oil to dot 4, but do i need a special tool to do that or it just like bleeding air out? Thanks
Click to expand...

the pistons moving separately is not a surprise, it's the path of least resistance physics
to bleed them, yes like bleeding air out
 
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