• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Brake pedal height to foot peg

lankydoug

lankydoug

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have stock foot pegs and can't adjust the brake pedal low enough because the inside radius of the pedal hits the frame way before the pedal is where it needs to be. I would like to buy lower and offset pegs but lowering the pegs would only make things worse. Currently I can't get my foot on the brake pedal without lifting my entire boot off the peg and then it's a stomp of the brake with no feel. I will admit my feet are big at a size 14 but still wonder if anyone else has had this problem and how did they solve it? The only sure fix I have heard so far is cutting and re-welding the pedal pad or buying a Recluse clutch and putting a rear hand brake where the clutch lever is.
 
I think you're going to have to move the pad or grind in some releif in the area where the arm contacts the peg, or both. You are a rather extreme case with that size flipper.
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MOTORHEAD said:
I think you're going to have to move the pad or grind in some releif in the area where the arm contacts the peg, or both. You are a rather extreme case with that size flipper. :eek:
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What gets me is that the pad is the same height if not higher than the peg so when the instep of my boot is on the peg the brake pedal pad is 1/2" higher at the least. This is after I have ground the inside radius of the pedal and have it adjusted as low as it can go. If I adjusted it in the middle of the travel it would be off by at least an inch... Forget how tall I am, who would want it that high? Now add lower offset pegs and it would be 1 1/2". Actually if I was going down a near vertical hill where my butt would be over the rear fender the pedal would be in the perfect position for a situation where I would use little to no rear brakes. lol
 
I have a similar issue with my 630. I'd like my brake pedal about another 1/2" lower or more. So far, I've just dealt with it. Now I'm starting to get used to it.
 
Try laying a folded up towel on the seat , sit on it and see if the pedal height feels better. It may be your legs are long putting your lower legs on more angled forward position and making the brake pedal awkward for you. You may just need a taller seat. I never run the brake pedal bellow level with the peg really don't want my toes pointing down.
 
I've had this issue with Huskys for years and since I do not use my front brake and ride hard iI MUST ALWAYS run semi-mettalic brake pads so I do not boil the brakes over. I adjust it as low as it will go. And live with it (not bad) One thing I may suggest and it may sound crazy but a different set of boots could possibly help. Some boots are big and clunky and some compact. Just a suggestion. I am so rider sensitive I must use OURY pyamid grips or am slower! Serious. I would also think you could bring your bike to a smart fab guy and he could think of how to fix the issue pretty easy.
 
I'm only 5' 10", I don't think long legs are an issue. :D

A while back, I had a little back & forth with George Erl about him making me a brake lever platform (not the whole lever, just the part your foot pushes on) that was lowered a little. I think he forgot about me, because the communications stopped. I have since gotten used to my pedal where it is (adjusted as low as it will go) and I think I can live with it.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I think there might be something to a taller seat since my knee angle is more extreme due to a 38" inseam. My boots are Garne G-10s and are almost new so this weekend before riding I wore them for 3 hours while using a chainsaw to make some new singletrack on my newly purchased property in MO. After the workathon and getting the boots soaked I noticed the next day I was a little easier to get to the brake pedal. Still it seems that if the average guy had the adjustment in the middle there would be plenty of adjustment left to please everyone on the extremes. (think where the pedal would be if you adjusted it all the way up)
 
Mine is as low as it will go and still just above the foot peg height. I am running Pivot Pegz which help a lot.
 
The 610 rear brake lever is arched, what I did to lower the pedal height was to cut back the tip of the lever, and I drilled a hole further down on the arc of the lever. I used a furniture nutsert as a brake pedal. The nutsert looks like this...
Insert%20Nut%20Type%20B.png

You can get the nutsert from Home Depot/Lowes/any hardware store.
 
I second the suggestion of looking into a taller seat- especially for a fella with a 38" inseam.....

Must be nice to sit on these bikes with your feet flat on the ground
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Slowpoke said:
I second the suggestion of looking into a taller seat- especially for a fella with a 38" inseam.....

Must be nice to sit on these bikes with your feet flat on the ground:)
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Ha Ha.. It does have it's advantages but it's a long way to stand up and sit down (kind of like a deep knee bend every time) and nothing ever ever fits out of the box. For example my arm reach is 6'9" so sleeves are always too short by at least 2" and if you buy an XL in anything the makers assume you weigh 300 lbs.
 
Don't forget if you go to a taller seat you may want to raise your handle bar height also. risers or taller bars.
 
Another member here had the same problem on his 610. He ended up drilling, grinding and re-fabing the connection between the pad and arm and dropping it down low enough so that he could ride with his foot over the brake pad/pedal without dragging the brakes.
 
Camstyn said:
Glad I'm not the only one! I'm somewhere between 6'6 and 6'7 and have tried the tall seat method on other bikes with limited success. I actually like the Husky ergos without a tall seat foam so far. Being tall/big feeling bikes is one of the main reasons I switched to Huskys. I haven't put lowboy pegs on the 300 yet, but did on the 125. I find the stock bar position comfortable with the stock seat height, with Renthal RC-Hi bend being my favorite so far with Pro Taper KX-Hi's a close second.

Did you have the brake pedal height issue with the stock pegs or was it not until after you installed the lower ones? I haven't had an issue with mine and I wear a size 15 Tech 8, but I'm only a 34" inseam.
I think maybe once your boots break in some more the issue will alleviate itself some, if not completely. I remember breaking in a pair of Tech 6's a few years ago and had big problems with both shifter and brake pedal feel but after the second ride it seemed to suddenly go away.
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I have the stock pegs on now and would like to go to the lower pegs but not until I resolve the brake pedal problem. I agree that the Husky is a taller feeling bike and I like just about everything about it. I have a GasGas EC200 that has lower pegs and was still able to adjust the brake pedal on it with no problems. I set the GasGas up for my 15 year old son but now he has passed me in height. I think it will take a combination of low pegs, high seat, Aero taper high bars, (which I already have) and modifying the brake pedal to get things perfect. The new boots amplified the problem but three more hours of trailblazing with a chainsaw should have them broken in.
 
I tell you what, if someone were to fab up an aftermarket brake pedal that was lower, or more adjustable, or whatever, I'd buy it up!

It seems silly to me that even with the brake pedal adjusted as low as it will go, it's still higher than the footpeg.
 
jtemple said:
I tell you what, if someone were to fab up an aftermarket brake pedal that was lower, or more adjustable, or whatever, I'd buy it up!

It seems silly to me that even with the brake pedal adjusted as low as it will go, it's still higher than the footpeg.
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Amen and +1
 
Have you guys looked at replacing the stock clevis? There is a lot of play in the clevis before it actually pushes the plunger. I had a 8mm rod end on my old WR that worked real well. It may help you to get some brake action before the pedal hits the foot peg.
 
All it would really take is a lever that's basically straight, instead of arching back upward at the halfway point. Here's mine:

IMG_0324.JPG
 
Apparently there is some guy that is over 7ft tall (I think he's an ex-NBA player?), riding a KTM in some events in the southwest. He must look like a bear in a circus on that bike.......
 
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