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Brake jerks low speed/ 630/ front

hellrider

hellrider

Husqvarna
C Class
Hi guys

Since I've bought my 630 last autumn, the front brake jerks on low speed with low pressur.
I know it has a swimming brake disc and a fix brake caliper (or more precise: pads). Does someone ever had the same issue? Or simply a solution?

What I try on my own first, put on new pads. And then we'll see what happens...

Greez hellrider
 
I don't know a solution, but I suggest that you don't dispose your current pads immediately, because I have a hunch that they are not the cause of the problem.
Maybe the disc is slightly crooked/bent? On the manual of the 610 they state:
"The disc distortion must not exceed 0.15 mm/0.006 in. (this measure is to be taken with a comparator and with the disc mounted on the rim)."
I guess that it holds true for the 630.
You are supposed to measure it like this:
07610000action.jpg

Or, if you don't have that gauge, you could just use a plastic part as reference point and then measure the distorsion using a feeler gauge.
 
I had kinda an odd grabby front, swapped for EBC HH sintered pads and it went away.
It felt more like runout than warpage, but either way it's gone now and hasn't come back in ~8k miles.
 
My brake pulses at low speed aswell.
Still using OEM pads.
It feels like the rotor is warped, but im not sure if that is whats wrong.
 
Brake lever after some time riding becomes more soft?
If brake disk is warped than you should fill it by your brake lever...
P.S. on my previous bike (GSF 400) one disk was warped, some friends said that it can be fixed by one master, I give him bike for 2 day and he fixed it (only for 300 UAH ~ 30$, new was cost more than 100$)
 
I know a workshop here where they fix warped rotors grinding them a little, if they are not too warped and too worn. IIRC, they do it for something like 40 € and here a new 320 mm rotor costs 200/300 €.
 
I warped my 610 rotor having a little lay down on an embankment .
Bought a new rotor for about $80 aud . Not worth trying to repair . I could see it was warped when i spun the wheel
 
On my dirtbike I have straightened them with a ballpeen hammer. Sounds crude but is suprisingly easy. Just a tap is all that it takes to bend it back straight. Just put some EBC HH pads on the SMS630, F&R. Anxious to see how much they improve the braking. Cam.
 
KXcam22 said:
On my dirtbike I have straightened them with a ballpeen hammer. Sounds crude but is suprisingly easy. Just a tap is all that it takes to bend it back straight. Just put some EBC HH pads on the SMS630, F&R. Anxious to see how much they improve the braking. Cam.
Click to expand...


A bit easier on a dirt bike with a thin stainless rotor, vs a thick 320mm disc
 
That is very true, plus its not an SM style floating style which would make it harder to do. Cam.
 
Spice Weasel said:
My brake pulses at low speed aswell.
Still using OEM pads.
It feels like the rotor is warped, but im not sure if that is whats wrong.
Click to expand...
I put new pads in and have done a few miles and no change.
Im going to have to replace the rotor.
I dont want buy a new Brembo and the same thing happen.
What other good rotors are there other than Brembo?
 
I replaced my wobbly front disc with a wave disc of ebay. Race Discs brand from the UK. 30 quid. Fixed it.
 
Hi gang. Seriously not trying to hijack here, but thought I'd post this Q as this thread is alive.

A few days ago I tried pulling my rear pads (TE630.) I cannot, for the life of me, get the pin out (that goes through the caliper edges/holes in pads...holding them in.) Am I missing something? I did of course remove the retaining clip first. I tried tapping it out, but stopped when I figured I was hitting w/ too much force (didn't want to damage the caliper or bend the disc.) The pin spins, but won't slide out. I recall having this issue at the front, but a few taps jogged it loose.

Thanks!
 
How far is it coming out before binding? I believe there is a spring detent in there somewhere that you have to overcome.

Be careful that the notch in the pin is not biting the backing plate of pad as it comes out.\
Wiggle the pads as you tap it out.
Or you can push it back into position, then apply a little rear brake pressure to keep them stationary, then tap it out with a long punch
 
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