• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Brake Arcing tool

1983XC175

1983XC175

Husqvarna
AA Class
hi, I just wanted to share pic. of a brake shoe arcing tool I am making. will let you know the results when I do first set of brake shoes.:banghead:
 

Attachments

  • tool1.jpg
    tool1.jpg
    94.9 KB · Views: 95
1983XC175;64844 said:
hi, I just wanted to share pic. of a brake shoe arcing tool I am making. will let you know the results when I do first set of brake shoes.:banghead:
Click to expand...

probable waiting for me to send you that set.:D
 
Can you explain how it will work.I've heard of the process,but can't picture how your set up does it. Thanks
 
If you look on Race tech web site under vintage, brake arcing you will see pics. You will understand..
Bill:busted:
 
I see and understand.You would have to open the brakes so their diameter is greater than the hub ID before cutting them.And you will never get 100% contact ,because you can't expand the shoes around the stationary lug.How much contact will you get,let us know.
 
Hi, Here is the latest pic. shown is a front Maico backing plate with no shoes.Hope to try it this week.
Bill
 

Attachments

  • tool3.jpg
    tool3.jpg
    88.1 KB · Views: 55
Mike, may try it tommorow. Had a guy from work help me on the project .. joint effort.. hope it works.
Bill :confused:
 
We probly have 12 to 15 hours in designing amd machining. Hopefully it is worthwhile. Thinking of offering a brake arcing service. People would send complete backing plate and axle , We would cut shoes. What do you all think?:excuseme:
Bill
 
He is the first try. Gripper brake shoes for a 1981 Maico. I cannot believe how far the shoes ran out of true before cutting. Worked very well.
 

Attachments

  • tool4.jpg
    tool4.jpg
    91.4 KB · Views: 53
What do I think? Wouldn't you want to shim the cam which pushes out the shoes to the exact spot it will be at when the shoes contact the drum. It has been my understanding and practice that you just pad the cam flats in some fashion and keep on using the shoes unless they look as if they will come unglued soon. I have been on a few rides where the whole inside of the brake drum was virtually mud. If you are reallly fussy wouldn't resurfacing the inside of the drum or machining it out and pressing in an iron liner actually be of more use to someone who rode these things a lot.

Fran
 
Very cool tool, 1983XC175. Very nice machine work.
I wonder how the job would turn out if you simply put the drum backing plate on a rotary table and cut the shoes on a conventional milling machine. It seems straightforward enough, assuming you make some sort of adapter to mate the backing plate to the center taper of the rotary table. Anybody have any thoughts on approaching it this way?
 
Fran,I dont know if you want to shim the cam, but you need to have it open. Yes, The cam is open on this 1. I will be measuring the brake drums and machining shoes .020" smaller. will keep opening cam for as much contact as possible.



fran...k.;65285 said:
What do I think? Wouldn't you want to shim the cam which pushes out the shoes to the exact spot it will be at when the shoes contact the drum. It has been my understanding and practice that you just pad the cam flats in some fashion and keep on using the shoes unless they look as if they will come unglued soon. I have been on a few rides where the whole inside of the brake drum was virtually mud. If you are reallly fussy wouldn't resurfacing the inside of the drum or machining it out and pressing in an iron liner actually be of more use to someone who rode these things a lot.

Fran
Click to expand...
 
I made a madrel and tryed it in a lathe. The interrupped cut kept wanting to throw shoes out. This unit is self contained and alot faster set up then conventional mill. you idea will probly work. I am sure there are many ways to do it.


NYWR430;65295 said:
Very cool tool, 1983XC175. Very nice machine work.
I wonder how the job would turn out if you simply but the drum backing plate on a rotary table and cut the shoes on a conventional milling machine. It seems straighforward enough, assuming you make some sort of adapter to mate the backing plate to the center taper of the rotary table. Anybody have thoughts on approaching it this way?
Click to expand...
 
Fran, you are correct. I would think that the brake lining run fairly true. Wouldnt the shim on the cam only be used if your brake shoes had a lot of wear on them? I am not sure what your last sentence means?
Bill






fran...k.;65285 said:
What do I think? Wouldn't you want to shim the cam which pushes out the shoes to the exact spot it will be at when the shoes contact the drum. It has been my understanding and practice that you just pad the cam flats in some fashion and keep on using the shoes unless they look as if they will come unglued soon. I have been on a few rides where the whole inside of the brake drum was virtually mud. If you are reallly fussy wouldn't resurfacing the inside of the drum or machining it out and pressing in an iron liner actually be of more use to someone who rode these things a lot.

Fran
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top