• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

bitza 430

J

jo360

Husqvarna
AA Class
picked up a 1984 (tbc)xc with a air cooled wr430 engine (tbc) i have already stripped it down to nothing but a bundle of parts.
i measured some parts as follows :piston 86.5mm, cylinder id 87mm and 2.5mm wall thickness, have yet to split the cases as i need a flywheel and gear puller the cylinder has 9 cooling fins, i will post up the engine and frame numbers next and then take some photos.
i will require new engine cases (i have a good clutch cover and a repaired spare) engine cases are chipped and coroded on outside and i would prefer a better starting point for the new bearings and seals i will be fitting.
once split i will have a better idea of the crank condition.
the ignition is amal sem type with a key and timing marker viewing point through the body.
i will be selling the original front end :triples, forks, front brake, wheel as i will be replacing this with a new yz 250 front.the bike also came with a spare seat, rear wheel, kick starter lever and exhaust.
the frame has been powder coated but has a small crack on the sub frame near the exhaust muffler that appears to have been worn down by the exhaust and then cracked, i will weld in a section over the top with a mount for a rubber cushion to keep the pipe from hitting the frame.
could somone let me know what engine cases (years, models) are the same or pm me if you have some for sale, thanks.
 
The Crankcase separating tool is on our site for sale as is the gear puller tool. Don't be tempted to hit the crank ends as they will burr over or move in the crank cheeks - which means a crank strip if they do!!!

Lets see a pic of what you have frame - wise and what is the frame number???

Andy Elliott.
 
thanks Andy, i have bought the engine cases and the front end is ready for installation soon as the bushes and seals arrive, the supposedly 2001 yz front end is actually a 1995 43mm kayaba fork set which is an easy install on the husky frame using mitsubishi wheel bearings in the headset.took the cylinder head to a local machinist who is going to bore the sleeve out to 87.4 then check the sleeve for cracks etc after that i can buy a new sleeve or 87.5 overbore piston depending on outcome.
frame seems in good condition i will be going through the rest of the parts sorting out the good from the bad the crank seems to be in good condition with no vertical movement.
 
split the engine and do all the bearings as they are cheap to replace and good for peace of mind. Same with crank seals, if one lets go your new bore will be toast:eek:
 
progress so far :frame and swing arm topcoated in kilrust gloss white (still drying), ordered some used stuff on ebay, engine cases, 250 crank (found light movement in mine),gear drum dogsand bits n pieces.
replaced swing arm bearings, headset bearings, rear shock bearings,cases split and bearings removed, painted and straightened a few things, made the footpegs bigger,currently scraping the plastic petrol tank ready for buffing.
still waiting for machine shop to get bck to me regarding the cylinder sleeve then i can order the rest of the gear.
i will be keeping the bike for a long time so i will be replacing all the bearings in the cases.
i have some items that will be surplus front end ,forks ,triples and front wheel c/w new condition trelleborg, rear wheel no brake centre, spare exhaust, spare seat pan and foam, set of new ohlins rear springs set up for a 60kg rider.
you might know this bike i bought it from a guy who bought it from a guy in bunbury who brought it over from bendigo and the rear shocks have krooz tune stickers on the reservoirs.
 
would be one of Bendigo Dirt Bikes Finds probably. mick seems to have a nose for these machines.

have a flick through my 400 rebuild post, done last year. might see some tips in there for you.

I got the engine case ports matched and the barrel tidied up and its a sweet motor now.

I would hold on to the original front end as it may make it eligible for some vintage events so you could swap it over to ride.

enjoy the rebuild they are easy to work on...
 
i will be posting pics shortly just waiting for the frame to dry thoroughly, then i can start some sort of reassembling.
the local paint specialist shop recommended killrust over the rustoleum cheaper and apparently tougher finnish.
realistically should be able to ride this out of the shed in about 5 weeks time.
when i pulled the crank was suprised to see a seal inbetween the crank and the drive gear bearings also very impressed with the double rows on either side of the crank no wonder these things have lasted so long.
 
got the call from the machine shop regarding the cylinder and bore state and the good news is the bore is cleared and ready for an 87.5mm piston.
the underside of the cylinder is engraved 'p rooney 12/85 A' and looking at the ports and castings seems to have had a good going over with a dremel.
p rooney may have been a previous owner or maybe an engine builder.
 
Paul Rooney is one of and still is probably Australia's foremost husky expert. if he has ported that cylinder, you are in for a world of great power. His work on autos is legendary. somewhere on this forum is a thread by speedyauto who wacked a 430 auto into a 05 husky frame. he had Paul port and sort the engine and he was impressed.
 
ordered a wossner piston to suit, thanks for the info suprize once its running i will do a report, still waiting for parts but cannot wait to give this a run.
 
quick update both second hand conrods and pins are worn out so I will be needing replacements,where is the best place to get them? money is getting tight so after the engine work is complete will put the bike back together and ride it replacing things like seat covers and plastics later down the track.
 
Husqvarnaparts.com check out the website and talk to phil. HVA in England also have rod kits

Ring Mick from Bendigo dirt bikes, he may knwo something more local... 03 54 478940

cheers
 
tried bendigo via email but no response, but got a rod, pin and bearing on its way from huskydogg who answered my email within a couple of hours and only$400 aud delivered.
all new bearings and seals are now in the cases,cases cleaned up and painted, yz front end fitted ,swing arm fitted, both wheels with new tyres, air box fitted and also fabricated a stainless steel side stand and fitted that, bars fitted, front brake fitted, rear brake fitted.
 
the new con rod kit turned up yesterday in record time (thanks huskydogg), so the crank is now being put back together, after that just waiting for the piston to turn up and i should be able to install the engine.i have taken a boat load of photos and will be posting those up when all is done, this is not a restoration project but a rebuild and ride project so will never be upto the standard of work you guys have done in the past, i will eventually put a new yz mudguard on the front and something equally as unconventional on the rear for a more modern look.
strange thing is that the bike felt lighter than my gg200 when it was complete pushing it on and off the trailer.
i have stripped cleaned and reinstalled the gearbox, selector drum and dogs into the left side case and will be heating the right sidebcase and freezing the crank ready for installation into the right side case, i will then heat and freeze again installing the crank into the left side case.
i will need to make up some crank pullers.
i will run a small film of permatex black on bothsides of the centre case gasket as insrance against oil leaks etc.
when cases are back together i will install the cylinder and head(after lapping with valve paste) and then install the fly wheel set the timing (i have a workshop manual that gives the correct procedure), check the squish turn the engine a few times checking for binding, kick it over checking for spark, put some fuel in it and start her up.
heres what i propose for a run in :
1.do a heat cycle then change plug.
2.take it out do some long uphills loading engine and going through gears change plug.
3. take it out and ride as normal then check jetting.

please let me know if you have any suggestions or recommendations.thanks.
 
Why change the plug?? I would take several short rides allowing it to heat up and cool down. when riding, just sneak it along and avoid any loading for the first few rides. doing a long uphill without the jetting checked is asking for a lock up:eek: . bed it in a bit before starting to sneak it into the powerband just a touch before changing up. as you get more time, use a bit more and more of the power, working the engine a tad more. after a tank of juice or more (at a slightly richer mix than usual) set your preferred premix and look at some plug chops. don't use Unleaded as it doesn't color the plug properly. the longer you do this the longer your piston and crank "should" last.... probably a good start for a new thread..how to run in a new engine.

the long uphill load is for 4 strokes to bed in the rings....dangerous on a 2- unless the jetting is spot on
 
just changing plugs out to check on jetting, keeping the original jetting til run in complete, should run rich on the new bore and piston.i have read in the past to put the engine under load allowing the rings to bed into the cross hatch but this would be my first iron sleeved air cooled bore and just want some input on a tried and true method.normally i just proceed as above and no issues so far.put alot of time, money and work into the build so not wanting to make any mistakes this late in the game.
 
suprize is spot on....load=bad break in on a two stroke..make sure to vary the rpms a fair amount. dont hold at one speed...i think suprize is getting at this since he speaks of shifting quite abit...good luck
 
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