• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Billet water pump, who's interested?

PS I would stick close to the OEM design parameters on the dims for the impeller. I am sure they computer modeled a standard parameter for avg speed,air flow through the rads, cooling efficiency of the OEM coolant, flow rates and flow speed to capture the heat from the engine and lose enough to the air based upon all of the above.
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I'm sticking pretty close to the stock design as far as dimensions go. I'm not shooting for anything radical this first time. Mostly trying to clean up the rough edges. Once I can get some good test results with this one, I will begin to play with the design a bit.

Here are a few pics of the proto. Please excuse the very crude finish on it. The next few will have all the rough edges cleaned up. First pics are the two impellers side by side, last is our impeller installed.

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Man that is super cool. One day I would love for you to explain how you made that. As a machinist myself it just blows my mind how a chunk of aluminum can look so good. Nice work!!
 
Colo moto that impeller is absolutely beautiful. I'm sure it will work as well as it looks and when it dose I'll be in line to get one!
 
Colo moto that impeller is absolutely beautiful. I'm sure it will work as well as it looks and when it dose I'll be in line to get one!
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Thanks, it gets its first trial by fire tomorrow. We're racing the cucharas river enduro. Should be in the high 90's with lots of tight sand washes. Perfect combo for overheating.
 
Well, I gave the new impeller it's first test this weekend. Course was mostly tight and rocky lots of first gear stuff and a ton of clutch abuse. Under every other tree was a steaming KTM. My bike ran great and I had no overheating problems. To be fair I have only ever boiled this bike once so it has really never been a problem. Sorry I don't have any raw data or temp readings to throw around. So in the end it works, good enough to not over heat. I guess that is kinda like passing by not failing.
 
Switching to an "acorn" type nut should help improve the pump efficiency somewhat, too.

Better yet, some sort of bullet nose type cap that totally covers the nut flats and smooths the transition to the center hub would be even better.:thumbsup:
 
PS note for all that the 250 and 450/510 impellers are different pitch/size (check P/N). I have seen both next to each other at GP motos when we were chasing one down for me.
 
In a hydro analysis the (n) value would be much better (lower) for the billet impeller would have less flow restriction, and therefore the water would move quicker across them, where as the cast one would have (higher) (n) value unless it was polished. Or do I have that backwards? To late to think, must sleep now. Of course the pitch of the blades will also have a role to play. Nice part Colo moto. How about the impeller and housing as a larger unit to change the flow rate? Just a thought.

Gary
 
Im sure people would be more curious if these were for the 450/510. Not saying they are not BA (BadA**) but I havent seen to many 250's overheat. When i have, they were pretty much almost standing still.

7602 always makes awesome stuff. tweek them to really drop some temp numbers and make them for the 450/510 and you will probably sell tons of them. There is always a thread about a 450/510 overheating.

Mike
 
Very nice impeller indeed. Forgive me tho- but what value is increasing the through put of just the water pump if you are going 5 MPH? Are you expecting the radiators to passively radiate additional energy due to the increased flow?

My 07 450EXC would boil when speeds got slow and the engine work got heavy, like slow technical rock sections etc. Ive never boiled my Husky- even in the same sections of the same trail in similar conditions that would gurgle the pumpkin into submission.

Seems to me the hot ticket would be adding a thermo set point activated fan in addition to the impeller. BMW 318i from the 80s came with 4 different thermo switches 82, 86, 91 and 99 C. They are shoulder sealing 10 x 1.25 thread pitch and quite small. At X temp the switch closes, then opens again below X- 5C (ish). I used one of them and a 80 CFM 100 mm computer fan on the backside of the radiator. I never boiled the KTM again- not even in Moab in the middle of summer on some gnar gnar trails.

ColoMoto:

I dont know how far away LaJara is from COS- but I have a dyno and datalogging equipment and I like to mess around with all my bikes. Lets get together at my shop and get some numbers down and see what makes sense for a solution?

http://64.25.14.42/DRZ_bluepickle/KTM Rad Fan.html
 
Very nice impeller indeed. Forgive me tho- but what value is increasing the through put of just the water pump if you are going 5 MPH? Are you expecting the radiators to passively radiate additional energy due to the increased flow?
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The #1 goal for this project is reducing operating temps. If I have to speed up flow, or slow it down to do that, that is what will be done.

The second goal is making a more efficient design. The stocker moves water, but has many rough edges. I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and like things to be just so.
Seems to me the hot ticket would be adding a thermo set point activated fan in addition to the impeller. BMW 318i from the 80s came with 4 different thermo switches 82, 86, 91 and 99 C. They are shoulder sealing 10 x 1.25 thread pitch and quite small. At X temp the switch closes, then opens again below X- 5C (ish). I used one of them and a 80 CFM 100 mm computer fan on the backside of the radiator. I never boiled the KTM again- not even in Moab in the middle of summer on some gnar gnar trails.
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Many others have also done this, or just added the fan kit that comes on many of the EU spec huskys.

I dont know how far away LaJara is from COS- but I have a dyno and datalogging equipment and I like to mess around with all my bikes. Lets get together at my shop and get some numbers down and see what makes sense for a solution?
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PM sent. :thumbsup:
 
Hows this project coming? Any idea of a release date?
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Been in production of case savers and oil filter covers for the last few weeks, so had to put this project on pause for a while. Got this water pump and a clutch project kinda going at the same time now so its kinda so can't say for sure yet which one will be available first. I'll post up when one is available though. Thanks.
 
Heat Exchange

Hey boys & girls, here's a Poindexter thought... Heat exchange in the coolant has 2 places it happens. One is in the radiator and the other is in the motor (we usually forget about this and only concentrate on the radiator). If you slow flow down or speed it up it affects how heat is either picked up (in the cylinder) or dumped off (in the radiator). Resident coolant time in BOTH places affects cooling efficiency. For each particular application there will be an optimum flow rate (maybe slower, maybe faster). Engineers get close on paper, but real world temp readings should be most accurate.
 
etch12;46712 said:
Hey boys & girls, here's a Poindexter thought... Heat exchange in the coolant has 2 places it happens. One is in the radiator and the other is in the motor (we usually forget about this and only concentrate on the radiator). If you slow flow down or speed it up it affects how heat is either picked up (in the cylinder) or dumped off (in the radiator). Resident coolant time in BOTH places affects cooling efficiency. For each particular application there will be an optimum flow rate (maybe slower, maybe faster). Engineers get close on paper, but real world temp readings should be most accurate.
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Well ok, has anyone put a couple of water valves from a hardware store in the radiator lines and experimented while measuring the temp of both the motor and the radiators?

A valve going to each side of the radiator. That in theory might give good information.
 
Colo Motos impeller appears to have a more 'cupped' design than stock which looks like it will move more coolant (more flow). Polishing would be good for orfices that the coolant goes through to increase flow but not necessarily the impeller. The shape and clearances will be most important. It may be difficult to improve on the factory design as they take alot of things into account. Although adding the 'Y' pipe certainly helps and makes you wonder what those guys (designers) were thinking.
 
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