• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Bike won't start

RusRider

Husqvarna
B Class
I was love my husky WR250 2011 while weather was less than 50f.
Now here is 54-59f and it's where the problem starts!!!

I can fire it up only once a day when it's stone cold when it warm I can't start it no mater what!!!
it runs strong when it works!
I've changed main jet, pilot jet, played with air screw... Nope
So I've spent all weekend in the woods trying to start it.

Now it has 430 main, 35 pilot and 3 clip at needle. See level area.

I'm very pissed with this situation, please help me figure out how to solve this problem.
May be it's not carb issue?

Thanks!
 
When the bike won't start, have you checked spark? That would be my next check. It could be something as simple as a bad shut off switch,
 
Sounds like it is still too rich, check float level as well as jetting. Does it start with a push when it's warm? If so almost certainly too rich. When its warm and wont start try a fresh plug if it starts with that its probably too rich.
 
What happens when you hold the throttle 1/4 of the way open when you are kicking it? That will tell you if the mixture is rich.
 
Sounds like it is still too rich, check float level as well as jetting. Does it start with a push when it's warm? If so almost certainly too rich. When its warm and wont start try a fresh plug if it starts with that its probably too rich.
Seems to start but only if you find long downhill.

What happens when you hold the throttle 1/4 of the way open when you are kicking it? That will tell you if the mixture is rich.
1/4 throttle? Not sure but looks like at 1/4 was the spot where it was very close to start.
Also it kicking back sometimes and sneezing out of silencer.
 
Your pilot is rich. Hold the throttle open a little further, or all the way. It will start. The fix would be to install a smaller pilot.
 
How many turns out on the air/fuel screw? that would tell you if your PJ is too big giving you starting problems.
 
How many turns out on the air/fuel screw? that would tell you if your PJ is too big giving you starting problems.

I've tried from 1,5 to 2,5 turns, without any achievements. For me it's hard to judge when I can't start the bike.
 
Probably a combination of float level too high and pilot too rich. A 27.5 or a 30 pilot would probably get you in the neighborhood. I had to adjust my float a very small amount to solve a starting and poor mileage problem.
 
Probably a combination of float level too high and pilot too rich. A 27.5 or a 30 pilot would probably get you in the neighborhood. I had to adjust my float a very small amount to solve a starting and poor mileage problem.

My bike is also have poor milage, but I was thinking that is ok for 250.
The smallest jet that I have is 35, so I try to adjust float first.

Do you know any good articles how to do it?
 
My bike is also have poor milage, but I was thinking that is ok for 250.
The smallest jet that I have is 35, so I try to adjust float first.

Do you know any good articles how to do it?
Read this first http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm then mark your throttle with tape 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and adjust one circuit at a time. Be patient and write down your settings so that you can compare. Once you get it perfect write it in the back of your owners manual so you can reference it if you change pipes or gearing or altitude ect. Enjoy.. you will be amazed how well the bike will run when it's crisply tuned from bottom to top.
 
Read this first http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm then mark your throttle with tape 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and adjust one circuit at a time. Be patient and write down your settings so that you can compare. Once you get it perfect write it in the back of your owners manual so you can reference it if you change pipes or gearing or altitude ect. Enjoy.. you will be amazed how well the bike will run when it's crisply tuned from bottom to top.
Thanks!

Do you have also information about float checking and adjusting?
 
Thanks!

Do you have also information about float checking and adjusting?
The way I set mine is to bend the tab in small increments until fuel does not pee out of the overflow until the bike is leaned at approximately a 45 degree angle to the left. If it pees early it's too high. Every time I am going to cold start the bike I lean it to the left and just before the peg touches the ground it pees. This puts some fuel in the engine for the cold start. I then pull the choke out and one or two kicks and it's going. I know this is not scientific but it works out to be the same as the measurement that others have posted on the jetting chat. If you want to measure make sure you hold the carb upside down at an angle because the weight of the float on the needle spring will throw off the measurement. Basically the float will be slightly below level when the fuel is shut off. (carb right side up)
 
6mm. The side edge of the float should be parallel to the side edge of the carb body when the valve closes.
 
here is how my float looks right now. Seems to be too high.
f5801713.jpg

6e64cf50.jpg

But i can't figure out what I should adjust and how.
kindly ask to help me.
 
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