• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Bike electically dead - ideas?

danny318

danny318

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My Bike is dead, as if the battery is dead but its not.
Here is what happened -
It was doing the 'difficult to start when warm' thing, and I cranked on it a little longer than I should have. Usually it does not mind and eventually starts. This time it Eventually went dead.

Then it would light up the dash for a second when I hit the starter, but thats it. No fuel pump prime noise. Now it won't light up the dash. I disconnected the ground for a while and unplugged and replugged the ECU, and still the same.

Checked the 30amp fuses both look good.

What would have broke during the excessive cranking? What things should I check first?

Thanks in advance.

TE449
 
Well the relays look good visually, no corrosion or anything. I swapped them since they are all the same with each other, but no difference.

The dash flickers random lines all by itself, can't be good.

Anyone have a spare ECU I can borrow?
 
I would look a the solenoid, as the amperage there is very high at start-up. Next to you main fuse under the seat.
I had one go bad from prolonged cranking. Next be sure negitive cable to starter is good (not cooked).
 
I'd have a look at the connections that the fuses plug into in case the connector/s burned.
Grab a multi-meter & follow the power along until it stops using the diagrams.(Through the battery cable to fuses, from there to relays etc....)
 
James Patton said:
I would look a the solenoid, as the amperage there is very high at start-up. Next to you main fuse under the seat.
I had one go bad from prolonged cranking. Next be sure negitive cable to starter is good (not cooked).
Click to expand...
Thanks, what is this Solenoid exactly?
 
Danny, do you have a Lithium battery? Might be something to look into when you've found the original fault.
They can help stop blowing fuses & overloading the electrics.
Amps go up as volts decrease to produce the same work. If the volts fall low trying to crank the amps go high & can blow fuses, overheat connectors/relays....
 
justintendo said:
have you tried a different battery?
Click to expand...
I measured the voltage and its 13.4v, but I'll try another just in case

Just tried with the battery charger hooked up to it, I get a buzzing sound from the starter area and deep click sound from somewhere else. Strange.

With the bike in gear trying to rock it back and forth it sounds like the starter gear is still engaged. The solenoid is the thing that controls the engagement, right? Maybe it is stuck engaged. Wouldn't explain the whole thing. I'll have to look closer tomorrow
 
I suggest you keep the volt meter on the battery whilst holding down the starter. If volt meter goes to zero, you either have a bad connection dumping to ground, or your battery cannot hold cranking volts, thus is dead.. Also check continuity of fuse.
 
huskydude59 said:
I suggest you keep the volt meter on the battery whilst holding down the starter. If volt meter goes to zero, you either have a bad connection dumping to ground, or your battery cannot hold cranking volts, thus is dead.. Also check continuity of fuse.
Click to expand...
Okay cool this is making more sense. Just did volt meter while pressing starter and it goes right to zero. I do not suspect the battery so there must be a bad connection or broken wire somewhere. thanks
 
A battery can still show 12v but have no reserve cranking amps (and go to zero when loaded)
Different lithium batteries have different ways of 'saving' themselves from overloading to. Most have some internal electronics to do this inside the case.
It is possible this has died....
Unless the battery charger has a mode to boost for starting, it won't make enough amps to crank it over.
Try starting it with some jumper leads if you have some, that would prove the battery one way or the other.
 
The starter solenoid/relay is located on left side rail, in front of battery. Follow the heavy positive cable from battery to relay. On my te310 there is a fuse in there too. Follow Huskydude59's advice re battery.
One of the collateral benefits(?) of owning these bikes is that you WILL learn to use a multimeter.
 
If your battery charger shows fully charged and shows zero volts when trying to crank then I would suspect dead cells in battery. Try another battery. Your electronic would have safety circuit to protect itself.
 
yup, a battery can instantly go bad anytime...make sure all the grounds are good as well. im betting bad ground circuit or open battery..
 
I'm starting to think you all might be right about the battery. It is the legendary Earth-X so thats why I am reluctant to believe it. Its probably only started the bike 50 times.

My other battery is dead, but I hooked up the charger in 'engine start' mode and the bike cranked over just fine, but did not start. But that it cranks over to me seems to mean that there is no ground or other electrical fault - do you all agree?

I'll pick up a spare battery to test this further and hopefully thats it, and from what I understand Earth-X has great support and warranty.
 
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