• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Beware Of The Oil Screen Plugs On The TE511/449

asweeba

asweeba

Husqvarna
A Class
Hey guys, I was doing my third oil change on my 2012 511. Went pretty smooth until I got to the two oil screen plugs that are next to the oil drain. Those things are just a bad design. They're too short and do not allow enough area for your socket to grab. Another problem is that the center of the hex on the cap is recessed, so it is also structurally weak due to the low amount of material. The icing on the cake for me, and probably most of you, was that the teeth of my socket (12 point) that I was using were also recessed or "sunk" inward into the socket. So in the end, I was probably only getting a grip on 1/16" of the cap lol!

It rounded out pretty badly, so I resorted to using a vice grip. I clamped that thing on there pretty well, then got a pipe wrench on the vice grip so I had plenty of leverage. I must've torqued the crap out of the cap the last time I put it on, because I put a lot of force on it and it wouldn't budge. So I decided to really put my back into it and guess what happened? This:

IMAG0742.jpg

As you can see, the cap is pretty weak.

SO BE CAREFUL!!!

I'm still debating what I should do next. I can't fit a cutting wheel in this area, so I can't do the flathead trick.

I guess my only option is to get an extractor!

Any other ideas? lol
 
Yeah, I rounded one off too. Ya live and learn. The great folks at MotoXotica got me a new one and now I'm extra careful with it. It's been my experience
that the screens are never dirty so I will check every other oil change.
 
The best way I found was to fit you socket onto then with an extension and give one good solid hit with a hammer. This can free up the tight threads. Then when undoing with a ratchet put as much weight as you can on the socket whilst turning with the ratchet.
Once you get them out throw them in the bin and replace them with billet Husky hard parts or the sweet 7602 ones.
 
Try different brands of 6 point sockets. Find one that fits tight then grind off the rounded edges to insure complete engagement. I make custom tools to fit the job all the time.
 
6 point socket like you should have started with. Grind the end of the socket flat so you get maximum contact. Use a breaker bar so you can hit it with a hammer while you turn it. Otherwise, maybe a chisel.
 
I use a torque wrench to tighten this cap and am always amazed at how little effort is needed to tighten to spec. So little, it almost seems like the cap could come loose on its own. Never has. Never had any issue removing or with rounding.
 
Super5onic88 said:
The best way I found was to fit you socket onto then with an extension and give one good solid hit with a hammer. This can free up the tight threads. Then when undoing with a ratchet put as much weight as you can on the socket whilst turning with the ratchet.
Once you get them out throw them in the bin and replace them with billet Husky hard parts or the sweet 7602 ones.
Click to expand...
Radar said:
Try different brands of 6 point sockets. Find one that fits tight then grind off the rounded edges to insure complete engagement. I make custom tools to fit the job all the time.
Click to expand...
tonskiguy said:
6 point socket like you should have started with. Grind the end of the socket flat so you get maximum contact. Use a breaker bar so you can hit it with a hammer while you turn it. Otherwise, maybe a chisel.
Click to expand...
oregonsage said:
7602 makes a nice matching set which work every time...check the sponsor list
Click to expand...
Caiman said:
What he said, much better thought out set of drain bolts, all 3 use the same size bolt head. You can even lock wire the drain bolt unlike the OE plugs.

http://www.7602racing.com/husqvarna_te_tc_txc_449_511.php
Click to expand...
jeffrodub said:
You could try not putting it on so tight in the first place! :)
Click to expand...
Micfasto said:
Left hand drill bit. If that does not work insert the extractor.
Click to expand...
gillies said:
I use a torque wrench to tighten this cap and am always amazed at how little effort is needed to tighten to spec. So little, it almost seems like the cap could come loose on its own. Never has. Never had any issue removing or with rounding.
Click to expand...
Rearwheelin said:
JB weld a socket on or use some quick steel , should work then get new plugs.
Click to expand...
IMAG0763.jpg

Sorry for not getting back to you guys. I got this out about 3 months ago, which was also when I ordered the replacement cap (and a few extras). I know this sounds ridiculous, but the parts STILL HAVEN'T COME IN!!! Although Today I finally got a shipping confirmation that they are headed over here from Italy (I guess all the time before that, they were just sitting at the factory or wherever) So they should be here in about 3 weeks.

Any how, Since I kept assuming that the parts were going to arrive quickly, I just left the bike with the oil pan beneath it untouched in my garage for all of the 3 months. I didn't realize how much time flew by but, I left my oil drain hole and the screen holes wide open without anything covering them. I honestly wasn't paying attention to how long it was going to sit until now. You guys think I should flush it out before adding the new oil? It's winter up here and there hasn't been any moisture in here ever since, so I'm not worried about moisture, just the dust particles I guess.

Thanks.
 
gillies said:
I use a torque wrench to tighten this cap and am always amazed at how little effort is needed to tighten to spec. So little, it almost seems like the cap could come loose on its own. Never has. Never had any issue removing or with rounding.
Click to expand...

10Nm (7.5 ft/lb)...as gillies said, feels like not enough, but mine have never come loose or leaked and come oil change time they are very easy to remove.
 
I may have gotten my screens mixed up. Manual shows the 2 different screens but both going in the rear hole.
Anyone know the orientation offhand? 1 screen has an open area. currently this is in the front, open toward cap.
Thanks. 2013 te 511
 
asweeba said:
Hey guys, I was doing my third oil change on my 2012 511. Went pretty smooth until I got to the two oil screen plugs that are next to the oil drain. Those things are just a bad design. They're too short and do not allow enough area for your socket to grab. Another problem is that the center of the hex on the cap is recessed, so it is also structurally weak due to the low amount of material. The icing on the cake for me, and probably most of you, was that the teeth of my socket (12 point) that I was using were also recessed or "sunk" inward into the socket. So in the end, I was probably only getting a grip on 1/16" of the cap lol!

It rounded out pretty badly, so I resorted to using a vice grip. I clamped that thing on there pretty well, then got a pipe wrench on the vice grip so I had plenty of leverage. I must've torqued the crap out of the cap the last time I put it on, because I put a lot of force on it and it wouldn't budge. So I decided to really put my back into it and guess what happened? This:

View attachment 34258

As you can see, the cap is pretty weak.

SO BE CAREFUL!!!

I'm still debating what I should do next. I can't fit a cutting wheel in this area, so I can't do the flathead trick.

I guess my only option is to get an extractor!

Any other ideas? lol
Click to expand...


They are pretty soft & light, yes.
As listed above, putting the socket (I'd go single hex) on the cap & giving the socket a good sharp tap should loosen up the cap enough to get it off this time.
However, they are only stopping oil leaking past the gasket & have no oil pressure on them, you do not have to crank them in hard at all.
Doing them up till they touch & just a nip more is all they need.
Buy a quality single hex socket (six point), this will give more contact over the head of the cap.
I'm changing my oil every 5 hrs, the bike has 115 hrs on it now & still have the original caps on it.
 
I am having the same experience as Motosportz. I try to snug just enough to compress the o-ring. Mine look like
new and I change oil after every dirt ride ot 250/300 miles.
 
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