• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Best way to hold the clutch from moving?

MorrisBetter

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm going to install a Rekluse clutch in my 08 510, and I'm looking for suggestions on how to immobilize the clutch basket when removing the nut that holds it to the trans' input shaft. I've seen a picture of a penny that was wedged into the primary gears, and that seems a little brutal. That would also involve removing the entire side case instead of just the clutch cover.

Can I just put the bike in gear and hold the rear brake? Is the a better way to do this?
 
When I installed my rekluse I did just that - put it in gear and held the rear brake. You are cranking against the gearbox so be careful, I used a breaker bar. Use the right torque to put that nut back on.

Cheers!
 
I've not done this particular item, but it may be possible that an impact wrench may be handy.

Perhaps?
 
Mr Sleazy;130447 said:
When I installed my rekluse I did just that - put it in gear and held the rear brake. You are cranking against the gearbox so be careful, I used a breaker bar. Use the right torque to put that nut back on.

Cheers!

Any else to watch out for? The installation instructions look like they are very detailed, but there's always something that gets missed.
 
The install was fairly straightforward - stick to the instructions. It was more of an effort to get it adjusted exactly right.

I made 2 mistakes in my install -

1. I got rid of the clutch control entirely (converted to left hand rear brake). I thought I could just remove the push rod that connects the clutch slave to the clutch plates. NO! The rekluse depends on tension on that rod in its system, so this didn't work at all.

2. after re-installing the push rod, I didn't do a good job of getting the top plate (the one that holds the balls) seated onto the posts on the basket. Didn't notice I hadn't gotten it seated properly till I started the bike and heard horrible rattling noises****************************************! Shut off right away and got the top disks seated properly, no harm done.

Don't make these mistakes!

Also, watch the tiny washers that hold the clutch pack in place - they are so small if you drop one inside the guts of your machine it would be a nightmare to find it.

Coffee's suggestion above may be a good one, when I researched removal of my cluch basket nut the impact wrench seemed the recommended way to go. I don't have one, however, so used the method described above!

BP
 
if you can get hold of a old cog from a gear box with same profile and put that inbetween your gears to stop them spinning.
 
If you use an air impact gun it breaks it loose without hassle. I've installed an EFM in my TE250 and a Rekluse EXP in my TXC250. I'm in the east bay. Be happy to give you a hand.
 
I have not been into the clutch on my husky... but have used the "penny trick" numerous times on my ktm to tighten the crank nut and other service. It works- you will kill the penny for sure, just don't drop in in your case where you can't find it without disassembly- Using the rear brake sounds good to- for me I would have had to take off the lever to get the cover off and then put it back on- just never did it that way...

FYI: Motion Pro- also makes tools for this purpose.
 
While there are plenty of tricks that work, why not just spend the 30 bucks and get the tool made for the job!

Just tighten it enough to close, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT LIKE YOU NORMALLY USE VICE GRIPS, YOU CAN DAMAGE THE BASKET. Just put it on, run the adjuster up snug then lock in place. Too easy and is a great addition to your tool box.

Has other uses too like for counter shaft sprockets etc.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/

08-0008.jpg
 
Darkside;130494 said:
If you use an air impact gun it breaks it loose without hassle. I've installed an EFM in my TE250 and a Rekluse EXP in my TXC250. I'm in the east bay. Be happy to give you a hand.

Sure. I have all of the tools, but I could use the benefit of your experience. I'll PM you with my contact info.
 
firebolter;130517 said:
While there are plenty of tricks that work, why not just spend the 30 bucks and get the tool made for the job!

Just tighten it enough to close, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT LIKE YOU NORMALLY USE VICE GRIPS, YOU CAN DAMAGE THE BASKET. Just put it on, run the adjuster up snug then lock in place. Too easy and is a great addition to your tool box.

Has other uses too like for counter shaft sprockets etc.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/

08-0008.jpg

I always like an excuse to buy tools. Thanks for the tip.
 
AndrewS;130592 said:
What about a strap (or chain) wrench?

Sure, but again just be careful not to over stress the splines of the basket. While they are strong, they can be damaged, ask me how I know:D

That's why I finally spent 30 bucks, it was slightly cheaper than the 200 dollar replacement basket!
 
Coffee;130448 said:
I've not done this particular item, but it may be possible that an impact wrench may be handy.

Perhaps?

i did it last week with an impact drill, no need to jam the gears, i just put the bike in 2nd gear before i started
 

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Impact wrench worked just fine for my conversion to Rekluse keeping the bike in gear, of course. Just follow the instructions for setup and you'll be well familiar with that side of the engine in no time.
 
Darkside
I too am going to get an EFM clutch for my 08 TE 250 (now a 310) and they require you take the whole clutch basket out and send it to them. After bending the tang on the lock washer away, I used an impact and took the clutch basket nut off - no problem there. I have everything out except the first part of the basket that goes in against the tranny gears...I can get it out so far but the teeth on the outer edge seem to be just slightly bigger diameter than the opening in the side case. It appears that if you could tilt the basket just enough, you could get it out slightly sideways but the center shaft prevents me from getting the basket tilted enough...and I even removed the brass sleeve the goes between the shaft and he basket:confused: Does the whole shaft come out some how to allow you to turn the basket sideways???
 
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