• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Best of the late sweetish big bores for everyday use ?

500Xc is a hellbent desert sled with tall ratios. For an excursion into mountain kingdom of Lesotho it proved unsuitable.
It has the same suspension travel and valving as CR.
500WR has much lower gear ratios, more engine inertia because of steel clutch basket, 8plate clutch (84-86), lower compression, longer midrange sustain because of pipe. It starts much easier because of more engine rotation per kick. Suspension is lower with softer rear valving.
On the following Lesotho trip i took the WR and couldnt wipe the smirk off my face. Pure joy and the bomb for tight stuff, riverbeds, evil climbs.

Some of the stuff in the above quoted text is puzzling to me. At least for this market USA I am under the impression that there was only a wr 500 one year I believe 1984 and not a single shock. I never had one but the parts sheet shows the same wide ratio transmission as wr 430 and xc500. The more engine rotation per kick is effected by the primary reduction, there was a change in the starter and intermediate gear but I think the ratio of that change is minimal and if talking about single shock all will be the later version.

Back to the general use I have my doubts a big bore two cycle can be made to pass sound tests. The political landscape seems changing especially in the state to the north, even for riding on private property.
 
I rode a new xt 500 a mate bought when they first came out....I had an old xl 250 motosport Honda. I couldn't believe what an enormous bucket of crap it was. we were riding tightish single lane and rough 4wd tracks and this thing was just awful. but...as you do when a mate has a spanking new toy..."it goes good!" I told him.... later in the day he clipped tree with the bars..nothng big, left a small tree scar but it broke both upper triple clamp bolts on the opposite side and peeled the clamp wide open so the fork leg was floating in space....they look nice...
 
I rode a new xt 500 a mate bought when they first came out....I had an old xl 250 motosport Honda. I couldn't believe what an enormous bucket of crap it was. we were riding tightish single lane and rough 4wd tracks and this thing was just awful. but...as you do when a mate has a spanking new toy..."it goes good!" I told him.... later in the day he clipped tree with the bars..nothng big, left a small tree scar but it broke both upper triple clamp bolts on the opposite side and peeled the clamp wide open so the fork leg was floating in space....they look nice...
good motor, awful chassis. i can see why the mill is transplanted into the husky chassis
 
im not so sure of the motor... found it was too big fourstroky..firing every 20 feet when the going got tough, either digging a hole or wheeling out of control trying to get up hills..had to ride it like a 125...clutch clutch and more clutch ....was great on more open tracks, cant deny that.... and I guess for the time it was a biggie...just never impressed me. there were easier bikes to ride I thought....
 
Some of the stuff in the above quoted text is puzzling to me. At least for this market USA I am under the impression that there was only a wr 500 one year I believe 1984 and not a single shock. I never had one but the parts sheet shows the same wide ratio transmission as wr 430 and xc500. The more engine rotation per kick is effected by the primary reduction, there was a change in the starter and intermediate gear but I think the ratio of that change is minimal and if talking about single shock all will be the later version.

Back to the general use I have my doubts a big bore two cycle can be made to pass sound tests. The political landscape seems changing especially in the state to the north, even for riding on private property.

Frank, the guys making some of those comments are in New Zealand, Australia, and Africa so it isn't really related to the US.
 
I rode a street legal 98 Husqvarna wr250. She was a awesome ride. With Dunlop dot knobbies. She sounded great on back country roads just brapping along listening to the popcorn in the pipe.

As far as speed I stayed with and passed a 600rr Honda till he let off I had him beat off a red light. I had a Harley guy cut me off at a red light he said sorry man as we waited for the light. I ate him alive off the light. He didn't stand a chance. My point is a 250cc can hold its own in traffic.

The 99 Husqvarna TE610e was another nice street ride. I enjoyed the grunt of the 610.

I would do a Sunday morning church loop with the 250wr. I would loop around two towns where the churches were in the country side. Besides my 12am rides. One of my morning rides as I came out of the forest trails in town there was a state police spot check. After showing my reg and insurance card I rode away. I never had a sound test.


My point is there are many choices.
 
I had a street legal 95 WR360, great bike but wicked throttle response and power band.

First time I rode it on the road near my house, the road was wet.

Everything was great until the power band in second gear, it did a complete 180 and was then going down the road backwards at speed.

I threw my right leg out by pure instinct and did not come off.

I am really sure any other bike but a Husky it would have ended up very messy!

:)
 
there is a guy on utube on a kato who pulls that manoeuvre off!! by accident! ive done it in slick mud once or twice with both feet "a la trainer wheels" on the deck.
 
Cheers you lot . I am planning on buying this wr430 . Already has different forks on it which suits me because I have some 98 rm 250 forks for it . First real mods will be check spring rates and swap accordingly . Chch rear travel and remove spacer from rear shock if needed .
Also have access to a smart carb ....
Can anyone comment on stock pipe vs up tite vs dp etc ?
 

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Cheers you lot . I am planning on buying this wr430 . Already has different forks on it which suits me because I have some 98 rm 250 forks for it . First real mods will be check spring rates and swap accordingly . Chch rear travel and remove spacer from rear shock if needed .
Also have access to a smart carb ....
Can anyone comment on stock pipe vs up tite vs dp etc ?


If the Up-Tite pipe on my 400 is anything to go by, I'd leave the stock pipe on for street use. The biggest difference is the huge mid range hit with the Up-Tite, but less over rev. After riding them back to back at the Yass Vinduro, the difference is very obvious and I guess it comes down to rider preference for off road use, but for on road I think the power delivery is more useful.
Surprize also rode my 400 with the Up-Tite after his stock pipe 400, he noticed the difference too.
I'm unsure if it produces more power, or just concentrates it in the mid range.
Tony.
 
If the Up-Tite pipe on my 400 is anything to go by, I'd leave the stock pipe on for street use. The biggest difference is the huge mid range hit with the Up-Tite, but less over rev. After riding them back to back at the Yass Vinduro, the difference is very obvious and I guess it comes down to rider preference for off road use, but for on road I think the power delivery is more useful.
Surprize also rode my 400 with the Up-Tite after his stock pipe 400, he noticed the difference too.
I'm unsure if it produces more power, or just concentrates it in the mid range.
Tony.
this also seems to describe the dp pipe on my 430, altho i am running the stock silencer with factory clamp on arrestor. im sure that is sapping power. less top and stronger bottom/mid..
 
Oh yea I didn't actually mean I was going to ride it every day to work or anything etc sorry about that . Meant this will be my main trail ride /adventures bike . As opposed to the fleet of vmx only bikes I have .
Yea that is an up tite pipe . Was asking for opinions of characteristics of each .
It's a wr . Was advertised on there last month .
 
the uptite puts all the power in a low to mid range band, very sharp sign on and sudden sign off. after riding my rev out special I found it very restrictive and a little harder to ride. I found I had to be very careful with the throttle or unhappiness would result! I can see a good rider in tight woods and loamy country would love the uptite but if there is tricky ground conditions, slick rocks, steep hills with tree roots and fast sections, I think the stock pipe is a better option. BUT without knowing timing, muffler jetting etc of tb's scooter etc it may be possible to spread the uptite power upstream and make it more rideable.
if you have one on the bike, I would work around it. George from uptite may have sometips on getting the best out of the pipe.

one thing for sure, your mates will be impressed....
 
Nice find!:thumbsup: I think you'll love it. My bike pulls hard from down low & it comes on strong in the mid to upper rpms. Doesn't feel like it signs off real early to me but I have an SA pro silencer. Every bike is a lil different. I had this pipe on a CR430 as well. Very sturdy pipe.
 
the uptite puts all the power in a low to mid range band, very sharp sign on and sudden sign off. after riding my rev out special I found it very restrictive and a little harder to ride. I found I had to be very careful with the throttle or unhappiness would result! I can see a good rider in tight woods and loamy country would love the uptite but if there is tricky ground conditions, slick rocks, steep hills with tree roots and fast sections, I think the stock pipe is a better option. BUT without knowing timing, muffler jetting etc of tb's scooter etc it may be possible to spread the uptite power upstream and make it more rideable.
if you have one on the bike, I would work around it. George from uptite may have sometips on getting the best out of the pipe.

one thing for sure, your mates will be impressed....


Good point JC, I would welcome any and all advice in achieving this, the stock pipe is easier to ride, there's no doubt about that.
My bike has stock jetting, stock muffler and is timed at 1.8mm btdc, any gurus out there?
Tony Brown.
 
you could.....
1. retard timing a tad
2. drop the needle 1 clip
3. try a larger bore muffler if you can find 1 or try repacking with steel wool.

leaning out the mid will soften the hit onto the main jet. I thought you had some richness in the system to be able to do this. obviously you need to test it to make sure its not too lean.
 
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