• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Best explanation for oil in the airbox TE 449/511

Rearwheelin

Rearwheelin

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I found this on supermoto junkie and just copied the husky mechanics post so not me....:

Let me add this about your bike's oil leak. I work at a Husky dealer, and just done a Husqvarna training course this week for their new engines, where I found out that these 449/511 motors are very fussy about their oil level. The leak you are seeing is oil that has been blown up through the breather (right side of engine) up into the air box and then dripped down.

The level you see when cold is in the middle of the glass, but when you start it, the oil in the sump gets sucked back into the gearbox (dry sump system) the level simply goes down when sitting as it seeps into the crank area. So the level is actually higher when running than the cold level in the glass.

The way to do your oil level (seems silly I know) is to warm the engine up a bit with the bike level (not on sidestand), turn it off then undo the filler cap, and let excess overflow from the filler cap until it stops, then replace the filler and you're good to go, it's now at the correct level. You will notice the middle of the glass is about level with the bottom of the filler, this is your correct oil level at operating temp. When cold you may not notice any oil in the glass, but should be in the centre after you've run the engine for a minute or so.
 
Great post Rearwheel.. that's exactly how you should check it. I've never taken the cap off but sounds like a good idea.
You definitely can't fill it or check it through sight glass if you haven't run the motor first. Even the slightest bit over filled
you'll have that problem. Like McKay said, one full liter is about enough. Maybe a couple drops more.
 
George at up-tite swears by the GS 20-50 ... Next oil change I might switch, been wanting to run the thinner stuff for the tight clearances.... My bike has 9hrs and 300 miles barely lol
 
George is the one that turned me onto this as well, Ill head to semi synth in another five or so changes. This stuff is very similar to our aviation oils so I know its up to the task.
 
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