• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Battery Issues

M

Mitch5

Husqvarna
C Class
Hi,

I've just had to replace the battery on my 09 te510.

I'm wondering if there is a voltage or amperage that can cause the battery to melt while running??

The previous batter had a melted spot near where the seat touches it (the forward top edge).

I've just replaced the battery with a new one and it is showing small signs of this again - but when its running and I give it some revs it doesn't feel hot??

Any ideas of things I can check to make sure my battery isn't copping too much charge??

Cheers,

Mitch
 
Both batteries I have used in my bike have shown "melty" looking areas where the seat holds the battery down. I run a voltmeter on my dash, and the battery charges at about 14v, which may get things warm but as long as the battery case is not breeched, I haven't worried about it much.
 
The seat will touch the top of the battery and is normal. Are you sure it's "melted" and not just "rubbed" from the seat? Otherwise lead acid batterie cells can collapse and cause internal shortage.
 
put a volt meter on the battery.

it should read about 12.8vdc at rest

Around 14.4 vdc at idle and about 14.1 vdc when you rev the motor in neutral.

If the voltage goes over 15vdc with the motor running your regulator is suspect and it can overheat the battery.
 
Ok no worries I'll suss out those things.

A mate of mine who is a suzuki dealer said that this happens occasionally on the suzuki rmz's and they "over charge" at higher revs - a quick/temporary fix for this is just to ride with high beams on all the time.
 
Do any of you know whether the amount of charge going to the battery can be adjusted through the voltage regulator by pluggin into computer??
 
Mitch5 said:
Do any of you know whether the amount of charge going to the battery can be adjusted through the voltage regulator by pluggin into computer??
Click to expand...
You can set max and min voltage with ibeat but I think all it will do is give you a fail code if it goes out of that range and not actually change the voltage from the regulator.
 
Ok.

After talking to a few husky dealers I think it is most likely the regulator that has kicked the bucket - what confuses me tho is that no fail codes have ever come up on my display - and I read on another site that overvoltage charge is a fail code that should be detected???
 
hi ive gt a simular prob my 510 is killing batterys when running if i disconect bat bike still runs so alternator is working what cud it be??
 
Mitch5 said:
Ok.

After talking to a few husky dealers I think it is most likely the regulator that has kicked the bucket - what confuses me tho is that no fail codes have ever come up on my display - and I read on another site that overvoltage charge is a fail code that should be detected???
Click to expand...
Hey Mitch what was the problem, was it the regulator?
 
Is the battery fully insulated from the bike, they can produce voltage outside the case, if they have a source/connection,
Ie..positive connection tracking to frame (negative) making the regulator continue to produce , because there is no
Resistance from the charged battery.
 
Third new battery and still have same problem.
Bike has been to 2 workshops who tested electrics and said new batteries were faulty. Second workshop put on Ibeat said electrical system charging properly but after 1 ride FAIL message back, battery down to 12.2 v and under 10v when electric starting. ( it will kick over but now won't start). I think it somehow the regulator must fail/short out when hot? Any thoughts.
I charged the battery but now the bike will kick over but not start at all! It is 09 TE 450 with 27 hours.
 
Hey fish I never replaced the voltage regulator, I replaced the battery and it was fine for ages but just recently I've got the same problem you've described above. Was turning over but not starting about two weeks ago, and now I get absolutely no ignition lights or anything when I turn the key (as if the battery is dead). But I have two batteries that are definitely not dead.
I've got no real idea what's going on yet
 
Hey Mitch read the posts to the thread below for some good advice on this topic:

09 Husky TE450 electrical problem
Discussion in '4 Stroke' started by Fishslayer, Apr 5, 2013.
 
It's alive! Just turned out to be a bad connection of the fuses. Fuses are new but just cleaned up the terminals and all good. Was back firing like a mother trucker first few times I gave it some revs. Please god no more electrical problems. Drives me crazy and then it turns out to be something so basic.
 
Yes Mitch unfortunately we will need a great deal of luck- and a couple of new players starting with a new 7 and 6 as well!
 
Take a piece of rubber radiator hose and cut it length wise and slip it over the cross support above your battery. It will keep your seat off of the battery. It will make tightening the dzuz fastener a little harder. That way you won't crack the case
 
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