• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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baffle in or out??

d up 7

d up 7

Husqvarna
A Class
I recently bought a 2011 TE 250. just getting back into dirt bikes which i haven't done since i was 14. The previous owner had removed the baffle. Its really fricken loud. I rode it home and felt like such a tool when i went past people. Have no idea how to re-install it. Does it really help performance wise having it out?
Also, got a lot of oil dripping from the air box. The bikes only got about 50 miles on it. Is this normal? The bubble is at the top of the inspection window which I'm assuming is where it should be at.
Any advice most appreciated.

Cheers
 
If you have the "baffle" there should be a large circlip that holds it into the can. If you feel inside the end of the pipe you'll notice the groove that the clip goes in. I don't think there's much difference in performance. I have mine out but have ridden with it in and performance was good.
You've got too much oil in it, that's why there's oil in the airbox. I run mine with the oil halfway up the window or just slightly higher and have never had oil in my airbox.
Download the workshop manual (there's a thread on this site). It's an invaluable tool if you plan on doing your own maintenance.
 
Mine runs like shit with the baffle out ...! but it has the 12 port & race ecu , it goes BLAT when you whack the throttle on the bottom .
 
Mine also runs better baffle in. I'm going to guess the oil in the airbox is from a freshly cleaned foam air filter that had too much oil left on it.
 
If you are in southern CA, put the spark arrestor in it. That way if you go off on a fire road you'll be legal.
 
Remove the air filter and mesh guard, stick your finger inside the boot along the bottom. You will probably feel oil pooling there, check your finger and you should be able to make out if it is motor oil or filter oil. There is a line that enters the "intake boot" from the top, when traced backwards it leads to a fitting on the frame under the gas tank, then on the other side of the frame there is a line that leads into the valve cover on the motor. My understanding is oil will get pushed up this line and enter the intake boot when the motor is over filled with oil. This helps eliminate too much pressure inside the motor when overfilled (I've heard). If your oil level is at the top of the sight window then I would say its over filled. Did you check it when the motor was hot? If you did then it is definitely over filled because oil level will increase in that window when oil settles back into the case. I run mine at half the sight glass measuring when cold.

I cant imagine its filter oil because previous owners would have to really drench the filter in oil to cause it to be running out of the intake boot, plus I would think the bike would be suffocating itself and run poorly in that case.

Was the bike smoking at all? I had similar issue with mine and it smoked blue smoke a bit due in part to motor oil pooling in the intake, and being overfilled, sight glass showed oil near the top in this case too.
 
The 2011 TE blows oil out of the crankcase breather when you ride it at high speed..normal for a bike not yet broken in.

Yup, the bike is super loud with the spark arrestor screen out.

the S/A removal affects the jetting a lot too.
 
Baffle in, far better spread of power abd much quieter. In my experience there is no advantage of it being out on that bike
 
My '11 TE310 has-

TXC ECU and 12 port inj. + JD jetting card

Baffle: No
Spark arrestor: Yes

It runs like a scalded cat. Are you guys saying it'll run better with the baffle in?

Does the baffle do spark arresting duty as well?
 
Indorider said:
I'm running a powercommander/autotune setup. Probably why I don't see a significant change, it's being readjusted by the autotune.
Click to expand...
You need some back pressure on the 250/310s. The FMF powerbomb provides back pressure and worked perfectly on the factory race bikes which had restriction-less silencers. PC5/auto tune was used as well which resulted in much higher gains compared to when ran on the bigger 450/511s.
 
Back pressure is your friend. The easiest example is to look at dyn sheet on Harley's the more noise a bike makes typically the less HP they make. A buddy that builds drag bikes always told me more power = less noise which I always though odd till he started showing my dyn sheets with DB readings.
 
I agree that back pressure is a good thing. Too much is not. When I bought the bike the silencer was out and the rest of the crap still inside the exhaust. After removing that extra back pressure it ran quite a bit better. I'm going out today for a ride, bringing the silencer and going to test with and without. I've got a "seat of the pants" dyno that I trust more than any machine. Will post my findings later.
 
Ok, possibly a bit snappier off of low rpm situations but seemed to "spool up" quicker (3k-7k rpm) w/out the baffle. I'm going to run it with the baffle in for a few rides and see if I see differences/advantages in other situations. I'm not concerned with being loud or not. I learned a long time ago that loud doesn't mean fast...
 
Indorider said:
Ok, possibly a bit snappier off of low rpm situations but seemed to "spool up" quicker (3k-7k rpm) w/out the baffle. I'm going to run it with the baffle in for a few rides and see if I see differences/advantages in other situations. I'm not concerned with being loud or not. I learned a long time ago that loud doesn't mean fast...
Click to expand...
Thanks for this. I was all ready to try my baffle "in", and found I couldn't run the OEM (Arrow) baffle with the OEM (Arrow) sparky. It's one or the other, unless I jury-rig something up.

I see you have the PCommander/ATune installed.
Are you running the stock Arrow exhaust? Stock ECU and injector?

Looking forward to your buttdyno findings..
 
Ultimately don't you want more air flow? Removing such devices (baffle or spark arrestor) can create more flow?? You can alter the pressure with JD Tuner by increasing/decreasing the amount of fuel being fed... By richening or leaning the fuel mixture...???:confused:

I have a JD Tuner (2010 TE 250) and I don't have a baffle or SA. I used to have the SA in but according to the local shop 'it fell off' - aka they stole it. Any how - I really didn't notice a big difference (besides it being louder). I felt like with it out, once I fine-tune the fuel mixture with JD-Tuner, the higher RPMS resulted in slightly more power. Nothing significant, maybe a pony or two at high rpms - but maybe that was the sound making me think such :lol::banghead:
 
I'm not getting into this power argument.
Just the Facts of my machine. 2011 TE310 (2012 TXC310 spec engine)
S/A-dB plug in
2012 TXC310 ECU in
2012 TXC310 12 port injector in
oem stock header assy with o2 sensor plug in
2010 TC250 Ti silencer on (shorter and 1/2 the weight of the OEM silencer) 4lbs vs 8lbs.
my machine runs pretty the same with the cap in or out, mines in for friendly sound and no argument sound and spark arrester legality.
The bike is plenty fast and powerful as is for us 99%ers.
 
After looking through the arguments, I don't see a right or wrong here. You're actually talking about two different things here. Just like 2t engines, 4t engines require a tuned exhaust. There are basically two types of exhaust systems, long header and short header. This is often produced by adding bends and lengthening of the header and mid pipe. If you wish your power band to move more towards high rpms, remove the restriction (short header), otherwise the restriction will yield power at lower rpms (long header). Installing a baffle or removing it will change the back pressure to your engine, similarly to the above short and long headers. It is up to you to figure out which one fits your mapping system and riding style.

Racers obviously want the best of both and shoot for both long and short header systems. To do this, they use a power-bomb header. This is a tuned baffle system that produces the back pressure of a long header system early in the power band and becomes a short header later in the rpms in order to form a restriction free system. These systems are often coupled with shortened silencers such as Robert's Ti silencer. (yield is also +10%hp, -1.5db sound pressure)

Regardless of the system used, tuning must be done to match the new air/fuel amounts passing through the system.
 
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