• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Bad regulator, or alternator?

MZee said:
I found the problem, but not the cause. See above photo showing fried stator coils.
Click to expand...

The cause: minor resistance in your windings causes heat to build up over time... a hotspot. Eventually, the super thin enamel insulation on the stator windings burns away or carbonizes (which conducts). You now have a short to ground, which means your battery does not get much or any power.

That is my theory- but I have not proved it. But I've seen it a lot. Also, vibration can cause the same situation (the full power AC generated in the coils of the stator cause the windings to try to move; AKA "transformer hum". that's why they're potted.)

People send me old parts sometimes... but I've never had a husky stator to tear apart.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
The cause: minor resistance in your windings causes heat to build up over time... a hotspot. Eventually, the super thin enamel insulation on the stator windings burns away or carbonizes (which conducts). You now have a short to ground, which means your battery does not get much or any power.

That is my theory- but I have not proved it. But I've seen it a lot. Also, vibration can cause the same situation (the full power AC generated in the coils of the stator cause the windings to try to move; AKA "transformer hum". that's why they're potted.)

People send me old parts sometimes... but I've never had a husky stator to tear apart.
Click to expand...

So, if your theory is correct, I do not need to keep looking for a short in the wiring -( bike has never blown a fuse)- Just install new stator & do the recommended idle voltage test to see if my reg is good?
I dont mind sending this stator to you, if you want. I will keep pickup coil.
 
MZee said:
So, if your theory is correct, I do not need to keep looking for a short in the wiring -( bike has never blown a fuse)- Just install new stator & do the recommended idle voltage test to see if my reg is good?
I dont mind sending this stator to you, if you want. I will keep pickup coil.
Click to expand...

Nope, you found your problem. Sorry, I thought i was clear.

And yep, do the voltage test. like I said before, this does not preclude your regulator being shot (but it's probably okay: our charging systems put out 100% power through the regulator 100% of the time, so there's a good chance it's still good).

Warning: speculative paragraph follows:
a couple of years ago when you indicated your charging system was putting out 13.5v, and I said you had a problem- this was probably it. If there was a minor resistance in your winding(s) at the time, it may have take this long to cause a failure. If so, there was nothing you could've done about it that you're not doing now. It might've cost you a battery, but that's a reasonable trade for almost 2 years.

all fuses are downstream- they're to protect your DC wiring.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
Nope, you found your problem. Sorry, I thought i was clear.

And yep, do the voltage test. like I said before, this does not preclude your regulator being shot (but it's probably okay: our charging systems put out 100% power through the regulator 100% of the time, so there's a good chance it's still good).

Warning: speculative paragraph follows:
a couple of years ago when you indicated your charging system was putting out 13.5v, and I said you had a problem- this was probably it. If there was a minor resistance in your winding(s) at the time, it may have take this long to cause a failure. If so, there was nothing you could've done about it that you're not doing now. It might've cost you a battery, but that's a reasonable trade for almost 2 years.

all fuses are downstream- they're to protect your DC wiring.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping this stator will fix the erratic idle & low RPM flameout problem that this bike has always had. As per your speculative paragraph - 13.5 V not enuff to properly operate the injector at low RPM?
 
MZee said:
I'm hoping this stator will fix the erratic idle & low RPM flameout problem that this bike has always had. As per your speculative paragraph - 13.5 V not enuff to properly operate the injector at low RPM?
Click to expand...

no, 13.5v is enough to run everything. It just indicative of a failing charging system. You were actually were running on the battery only for a while (AKA total loss electrical system) and could've dropped down to 10-11 volts before you noticed anything.

I did not mean to indicate that it was the cause of your other problems 2 years ago; however it's hard to diagnosis a major issue when there are a bunch of minor problems (possibly unrelated) also.

Turn your idle up to >2000 rpms.
 
just to be clear because I tend to add too many details: I really doubt a new stator is going to fix any of your running problems.

(unless your pick-up was failing. hah.)
 
Update: Found new stator on Ebay for $200. PN 8538730. Checked resistance. Measure .50 ohms on all 3 across wire resistance measurements. ( old analog meter increments only to whole ohm, so not precise at partial ohm measurements). Installed stator & started bike & measure 13.5 v at battery. I don't have a tach, so dont know RPM. Adjusted idle up to a smooth, somewhat fast idle. ( 1700 to 2000 ?) . Now measure 14v at battery . These voltage numbers agree with the WSM, (and thread replies). So, it looks like my regulator is still good. Should I rev it a bit to check how high the V goes?
 
MZee said:
Update: Found new stator on Ebay for $200. PN 8538730. Checked resistance. Measure .50 ohms on all 3 across wire resistance measurements. ( old analog meter increments only to whole ohm, so not precise at partial ohm measurements). Installed stator & started bike & measure 13.5 v at battery. I don't have a tach, so dont know RPM. Adjusted idle up to a smooth, somewhat fast idle. ( 1700 to 2000 ?) . Now measure 14v at battery . These voltage numbers agree with the WSM, (and thread replies). So, it looks like my regulator is still good. Should I rev it a bit to check how high the V goes?
Click to expand...

naw, you're good, however you can rev it if you want to check the voltage at higher RPMs.

but buy a bottom-of-the-line digital VOM 'cause they're cheap.

I'd guess your idle is still a bit too low, but it's closer now. Turn the knob all they way in (count the clicks), then back it out 40 clicks. that should put you pretty damn close.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
naw, you're good, however you can rev it if you want.

but buy a bottom-of-the-line digital VOM 'cause they're cheap.

I'd guess your idle is still a bit too low, but it's closer now. turn the knob all they way in (count them), then back it out 40 clicks. that should put you pretty damn close.
Click to expand...

I put all the plastic back on & took test ride. Starts easy & runs great now. It pulls a lot batter at very low RPM than ever before. I attribute the improvement to both new injector ( installed right before the charging problem happened) , and new stator . I think both were weak .

Thanks for the help, Trenchcoat85 .
 
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