• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Auto racing tips

ktmal

ktmal

Husqvarna
A Class
I met up with a old enduro racer from the local Husqvarna shop (now a k-- dealer) who used to race a 390 auto and also let me ride his back in 1980 the only one I had ever rode till I bought mine a couple of years ago .He had raced it for 5 years and had done very well with it,his tips to me for racing the vintage enduros were as follows ,Run a smaller rear tire let the tire spin as to not to heat up the first gear drum, gear as low as possible to allow up shifting ,service the shoes every 100 miles or so, change the freewheels every 40 hours (ouch), and of course change the trans oil every race. What else have you guys heard or experienced ? list them here to help all of the auto owners out
 
500 AE 84 Carb Jetting Mikuni 38
Recommended jetting for 500AE's as supplied by Paul Rooney is

38mm carb: Slide 2.5 - 3.0, pilot 50 - 55, needle jet R2, needle 6DH3, main 400, float level 17mm - 19mm

40mm carb: Slide 2.5, pilot 55- 65, needle jet AA0, needle 7DH3, main 370 - 380, float level 19mm
 
PORTING 430 AE CYLINDER BY PAUL ROONEY
Hi Michel. Ok it is no good porting an auto for top end power as the auto
only changes gear at maximum torque, & only revs out once in top gear. So it
needs to be ported for more mid range power which is of more use.
Exhaust from top standard = 40.mm, take it to 39.mm.
Exhaust wide standard = 58.mm Take it to 64.mm. Keep the sides of the
port as straight as possible.
Square off the top of the inlet booster ports.
Turn the cylinder upside down & drill 2 holes 1 each side of the inlet port.
Drill from the transfers to the inlet & then grind out till you make them as
large as possible & a nice shape. Do not worry if you cut into the cylinder
stud holes as the head gasket will seal it.
Once all this is done then take .25mm of the top of the cylinder.
You will need to go leaner in the needle jet & up one size on the main to
test. Have Fun Paul.
 
Rowant has added some screw in order to reduce clearance between
shoes, and keep spring hard. Don't know if screw support vibrations.

A spot can be welded on steel shoes in order to the same job as above.
pc070181.jpgpc070180.jpg
 
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