At 54,117 miles, you might want to...

[JonXX]

...Open 'er up and have a peek around. I figured this winter would be a good time to tear down my sweet baby '07 SM610 and reward it with a freshening-up (and a wee little bit more power ).

The cell phone pics don't really show a lot of detail, but if you look closely you'll see that the transmission gears (especially on the input cluster) are dundies. Yes the trans still works perfectly, shifts awesome, finds neutral no sweat, but as I've said in the odometer thread it's gotten a little whiny. You may or may not be able to see the gear faces clearly; if you can't, they're hammered and most of the hardfacing is gone. My instruction to Bill at www.billshusky.com was "if it doesn't look like it'll go another 50k miles, taking into account the power-upping, replace it." I was thinking several components would need to be replaced, and yep I was right. Long story short: A new transmission is in order. And I am not one little bit sad or shocked, frankly if anything I'm surprised at how GOOD it looks considering how I've beaten this bike like a rented mule (but also always taken care of it and rewarded it for never EVER leaving me walking - the ONLY bike I've EVER owned that I can say that about).

Clutch basket spring washers. ONE of them is cracked.

Cylinder looks good with just a quick look

A little bit of crustiness on the head, I reckon some of that is from running some premix in it recently (oops)

Input shaft and gear cluster. Note especially second gear (2nd from left)

Output gear cluster and countershaft. Note the hammered splines where the sprocket rides...GREASE those splines every time you lube the chain or change the tire! I didn't do this the first two years I had the bike, and by the time I did the damage was done.

Ok now that I see the pic I didn't get the sprocket splines in it. But you get a better look at the gear faces.

Like Bill said..."This is what happens when you hammer the box for 50k miles!" Hee hee hee...

 

[Motosportz]

I'd say thats in very good shape for the miles. Nice job. What oil did you run in that?

 

[DYNOBOB]

Wow! I'll take that for 50k miles. Are those stock spring washers?


.

 

[Xcuvator]

Interesting Jon. Keep us up with the progress....

 

[jmetteer]

Did you buy this bike new?

Later,

 

[JonXX]

Larger (yet a bit blurrier) view of the input gear cluster.

Better overall view of the output gear cluster and countershaft. Here you can see the hammered sprocket splines.

 

[JonXX]

I'd say thats in very good shape for the miles. Nice job. What oil did you run in that?

I agree Kelly, I was happily surprised to not see more significant carnage. I use Amsoil 10w40 motorcycle oil.

 

[JonXX]

Wow! I'll take that for 50k miles. Are those stock spring washers?


.

Yes. It's not had anything internally replaced except the cam chain at 19k (I've talked about this at length in the odometer thread).

 

[JonXX]

Did you buy this bike new?

Later,

I bought it from a friend in July 2010 with just under 5k miles on it. I'm the third owner, BMP Bill's nephew is the original owner.

 

[ghte]

Agree you have had a pretty good outcome on serviceability considering to rode it like you stole it. Good luck with the rebuild.

 

[jmetteer]

I was hoping it was the one my friend owned, he had issues with 4th gear I think and sold it or traded it for a KTM. I would have been more than happy to send this to him as he bashes husky now.

Later,

 

[R_Little]

I think the issue with the output shaft is loose fitting countershaft sprockets.

 

[JonXX]

That's certainly one of the contributors, no matter how tightly they fit (when it was new-to-me they fit TIGHT) they're only held on the shaft by a snap ring. No nut or locking collar for positive security.

That, coupled with the on-off BANG power characteristics of a big single, on the street, with no cush drive, and something is going to give.

A little over a year ago I came to learn that one of the regular maintenance points is to put grease on the countershaft where the sprocket rides - something I hadn't been doing for the first couple of years. The damage had already been done, at that point I was just trying to control and contain further accelerated spline damage until I made mileage to my teardown goal.

 

[Fast1]

Technically speaking, how does greasing the counter shaft splines negate spline wear and tear?

 

[SilverBullet]

Technically speaking, how does greasing the counter shaft splines negate spline wear and tear?

It acts as a "cushion" between the shaft and the sprocket. Even the thinnest layer will still help some. But as JonXX said this is not a grease and forget it until next sprocket change. Sure the initial grease helps but eventually will be gone. Needs to be reapplied at regular intervals to help long term. Each rear tire change should be sufficient, unless you ride pavement and street tires only, then I would suggest every 2,500 miles or so. No more than a 5 minute job to do this.

Same goes for trailer hitch receiver/draw bar and trailer ball/coupler. Most people dont grease these either but you definitely should.

_

 

[268fords]

I grease my coupler/ draw bar, ball.

 

[cjoecruz003]

I've been greasing my sprockets when I change them on my 510 for street and track since I saw you say this in an earlier thread. Engine looks great! 50k is a great accomplishment

 

[SimpleOne]

Thanks for the images, looking surprisingly good for the miles. What sort of grease are you using on the splines, does a high temp bearing grease suffice are using something more specific?


Irrelevant crap below this line
**************
Sorry, random question, is anyone else not seeing any of the images in this thread, or is it just me?
Quite interested to have a looksee, but its not happening at the moment...

Edit: Just opened this thread in Internet Explorer and there are no issues...Google Chrome beats me yet again...
Edit2: So, a google chrome extension (Disconnect) was blocking requests to Facebook where the images were stored. Problem solved.

 

[JonXX]

Thanks for the images, looking surprisingly good for the miles. What sort of grease are you using on the splines, does a high temp bearing grease suffice are using something more specific?

Yes I'm surprised at how good things look, myself. Because I ride year-round, I use Bigfoot super-tacky marine grease. It's the tackiest, highest washout-resistant bearing grease that I could find. I use it on everything on the bikes including the wheel bearings and the lower suspension pivot points. I used to do my wheel bearings as part of my annual, this is the second year on these bearings, they pass inspection with just a repack. Also, because of its bright orange color, I can instantly tell if I lose a wheel seal (I pack the hubs behind the seals as well; if more grease is in, less water can get in).

Irrelevant crap below this line
**************
Sorry, random question, is anyone else not seeing any of the images in this thread, or is it just me?
Quite interested to have a looksee, but its not happening at the moment...

Edit: Just opened this thread in Internet Explorer and there are no issues...Google Chrome beats me yet again...
Edit2: So, a google chrome extension (Disconnect) was blocking requests to Facebook where the images were stored. Problem solved.

Yes, I've been using the Facebook for image storage and hotlinking purposes, it's just so much easier to upload to it from my phone than to FTP to my own server. I'm lazy...Haha

 

[JonXX]

I swung by Bill's today, they had the crank pressed apart so we could have a peek at that...

Big end of the rod

Crank pin and bearing

Oil pump drive end of the crank

Of course with the crappy cell phone pics, you can't really tell just how good the crank looks...It just looks like a bearing has been sitting there running. No scarring, marring, or galling at all. Looks like we can just stick new bearings on each end of the rod and hammer down.

Oh and I had to grab a shot of the ever-popular subject of much internet lore, the "honking clutch bushing" - which does not, nor ever has, made a bit of noise for me.