Let's say you really like the light weight/high quality of the TE310 vs. other street-legal bikes but you don't need to do any technical trail riding--you really want closer to 50/50 dirt/road vs. the 90/10 of the stock bike. Has anyone had success with some combination of taller gearing/FI tuning/etc? I know there's not much you can do about the close gearing. Also assume max speed of 50 mph (no freeway) to make it easier. Apologies if this has been covered--please direct me to appropriate threads. Thanks for any help!
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
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As-streetable-as-possible TE310?
- Thread starter scrimm
- Start date
Welcome! 
A smooth running engine i.e. FI that acts well is appropriate on road or off..
If it were me, I would stick a larger counter sprocket on it and call it good. How much larger would be determined with a quick ride to decide what target mph & rpms were desirable, and do some math.
Of course there are also tires to consider... and I really do not think you will be happy with the xlite engine on the street as much as something like a 449/511
A smooth running engine i.e. FI that acts well is appropriate on road or off..
If it were me, I would stick a larger counter sprocket on it and call it good. How much larger would be determined with a quick ride to decide what target mph & rpms were desirable, and do some math.
Of course there are also tires to consider... and I really do not think you will be happy with the xlite engine on the street as much as something like a 449/511
On the 449/511 vs. new 310 engine, are you talking about power, or peaky response? The 310 would definitely make enough power for me (not really a speed junkie), and from what I've read about JD tuners etc. it seems like the 310 power delivery can be made pretty smooth. But yeah, that's exactly what I'm wondering... My concerns are about smooth power delivery across the spectrum with overall taller gearing. Thanks.
OlderHuskyRider
Husqvarna
Pro Class
See what stock gearing gets you in RPM at 50 mph in 6th gear. If it's 5000 rpm, you're good to go if you hold it to 50mph. I have dual sported my TE450 for over 2 years now and I am geared to do 60mph at 5500 rpm and I have over 13,000 miles, been thru 13 rear tires.
I've thought about this extensively for like the past 5 months and done a lot of research.. exact same situation. I drive on 50 mph roads from trail to trail (sometimes upwards of 30 miles+) or like to travel to a friends. I live in rural northeast US, and my TE 250, whilst a great machine - can't really sustain those 50 mph roads for long without 'race-esque- maitenence.
I've thought about a 2013 TE 310 R - then a KTM 350 , both are pretty pricey to be honest... Hence the reason why I'm picking up a used DRZ 400 E for around $1,900. I hear the engines are near bullet proof, and it was kept up very well. I've heard the DRZ400 "S" is pretty low on power and high on weight , so avoid that.. The 'E' and 'K' (electric and kick start only) are where you want to be, around 260 dry weight and crank to around 50 HP. A little on the heavy side but not bad, I test rode one it felt awesome - I honestly thought it would be heavier since my TE250 is listed as 235 dry - but the suspension helps hide those extra weight (until it's down on it's side lol). Definitely wouldn't be hard to trail ride at a slower pace / for fun... race? Would have to re-do the suspension, but the motor is easy strong enough.
Something you should consider, especially if you can find a cheaper DRZ 400 (e or k) and are in an area that is more lenient on plating dirt bikes --- anywhere that isn't California
Plenty of aftermarket parts and BAJA Designs kit for street use.
Good luck - if you do end up getting a TE 310 R , and gear it for road, please let me know how it goes. As Coffee mentioned, I'd imagine a TE449 would be better. You could cruise a lot better, and I doubt the weight difference would affect you too much.
Cheers
I've thought about a 2013 TE 310 R - then a KTM 350 , both are pretty pricey to be honest... Hence the reason why I'm picking up a used DRZ 400 E for around $1,900. I hear the engines are near bullet proof, and it was kept up very well. I've heard the DRZ400 "S" is pretty low on power and high on weight , so avoid that.. The 'E' and 'K' (electric and kick start only) are where you want to be, around 260 dry weight and crank to around 50 HP. A little on the heavy side but not bad, I test rode one it felt awesome - I honestly thought it would be heavier since my TE250 is listed as 235 dry - but the suspension helps hide those extra weight (until it's down on it's side lol). Definitely wouldn't be hard to trail ride at a slower pace / for fun... race? Would have to re-do the suspension, but the motor is easy strong enough.
Something you should consider, especially if you can find a cheaper DRZ 400 (e or k) and are in an area that is more lenient on plating dirt bikes --- anywhere that isn't California
Plenty of aftermarket parts and BAJA Designs kit for street use.Good luck - if you do end up getting a TE 310 R , and gear it for road, please let me know how it goes. As Coffee mentioned, I'd imagine a TE449 would be better. You could cruise a lot better, and I doubt the weight difference would affect you too much.
Cheers
I just think the 449/511 is far more of a street bike, it has been a while since I've ridden one, but as I recall it has less vibration than the x-lite.... and I've no idea how smooth the off idle is on a x-lite these days.
I've got a 2006 te250 and it is no fun on the road, cause it shakes too much. I'm reasonably certain the x-lite has less vibration than my bike.
Not really a horsepower issue.
Maybe ride a few different Huskys to glean more information?
Boogie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
2013 xlites with Keihin injection are smooth of idle. Much better than the 2012 mikuni FI.
My 310r doesnt vibrate much. (nothing like the 510!)
Johnrg
Husqvarna
Pro Class
As far as gearing the '13 comes with a 40 rear and a 13 up front. That according to the website for gearing means I'm about 6500 rpms at 65. 65 is as fast as I care to ride my 310, so stock gearing will work for a 50/50 mix or street and fire road, or mellow single track. 45, which is what plan to install soon should give me 57 mph at 6500 rpms. A better cruising speed on the road and still an acceptable engine speed. 45 should give me a bit better low gear for slow sections but I am still running stock at 500 miles so not necessarily urgent to do. I just try and ride the slow stuff faster. At 500 miles my ridng has primarily been fire roads and easy single track but if I don't haul the bike, it's 5-10 miles on paved roads which are a mix of 35-55 mph roads.
As far as tuning, the '13 only needs the less restrictive filter frame installed and a tune to stock specs. Mine is running great that way and no plans on anything power wise or tuning for now.
Gearing Commander... Load bike and add a different "custom" sprocket to see the effects.
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
As far as tuning, the '13 only needs the less restrictive filter frame installed and a tune to stock specs. Mine is running great that way and no plans on anything power wise or tuning for now.
Gearing Commander... Load bike and add a different "custom" sprocket to see the effects.
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
I have an Xlite TE 250 (2010, first year) and the vibrations aren't bad for short road travel. After awhile, it can get annoying (15+ miles). I would think the 310 slightly more vibrations as it's a stronger motor in same frame.
On a 310, depending on rider weight, a 45 rear and maybe 14 front would be good for non-highway 50/50 stuff. I use a JD Tuner on my TE 250 .. depending on year, you may not need that for a 310 - I think 2012 and up have different injector ports (helps low rpm stumble)??
The 2013 TE 310 R looks like one seczy beast tho no doubt about it.
Seems to have most of the bells and whistles from prior years, maybe worth to pay the retail price then get an older 310 imo.Really appreciate all the feedback! Very helpful stuff--thanks. I wasn't considering the 449 as I thought it used to be about 20 lbs. heavier than the 310, but it looks like the gap has narrowed for '13. I'm in CA so non-50-state bikes won't work. I almost never go more than 15-20 miles at a time so the 310 vibes might not be a deal breaker. And as Johnrg points out, it looks like the 40T rear will give about 5000 rpm at 50 mph in 6th, and mostly I'm at 40 mph or lower. Also sounds like the throttle response is not too sharp for the road, and I guess I could always try a tuner if I had to. All good! Thx.
glangston
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I put a 45 on the rear and it shows around 5200 at 50 mph. For my general trail riding this works fine. I actually rode it on trail with the 40 but it was not fun.
My Beta350RS with the wide ratio 6 spd is also a counterbalanced engine and is smoother ...pretty perfect
My Beta350RS with the wide ratio 6 spd is also a counterbalanced engine and is smoother ...pretty perfect
Josh Feller
Husqvarna
B Class
55-60 is about all I want to put my 511 through, so far I really like it! If I were you for the price difference I'd get the 511.
robertk61
Husqvarna
A Class
Welcome!
A smooth running engine i.e. FI that acts well is appropriate on road or off..
If it were me, I would stick a larger counter sprocket on it and call it good. How much larger would be determined with a quick ride to decide what target mph & rpms were desirable, and do some math.
Of course there are also tires to consider... and I really do not think you will be happy with the xlite engine on the street as much as something like a 449/511
I put a 14 on mine and found the chain rubbed a groove on the clutch slave VERY quickly, so 13 is the biggest you can go. Unfortunately you are stuck with changing the rear sprocket to get the desired effect.
Josh Feller
Husqvarna
B Class
Just price when I bought mine, I use mine as a commuter (12 mi each way 55mph) it just seems like I'd be beating the piss out of a smaller displacement motor. My 511 hums right along at 55 and doesn't feel like I'm harping on her also on the dirt I feel like the power is easily controlled, this bike is not a handful as most people think it would be. My only gripes are the super close ratio box, and the small tank. I have thought of changing the sprocket to allow 65-70 cruise, but then I might get tickets. I was considering 3 bikes when I got mine tr650, te511, and 310 ultimately the financing got me on the 511, there are a few days I wish I had the tr but never the 310. I think as similar as the 511/310 bikes are (size, weight,price) I'd think for a 50/50 you'd have to be on the 511 IMHO.
edmoto
Husqvarna
AA Class
Dude, buy a Honda!
Just kidding... sharing a little Thumper Talk wisdom, I'm sure
I don't own a 310 or 449/511, but I do think there is wisdom in going with more displacement when the riding would be mostly street miles. I say this from riding an XR250, KLX400, 640 LC4e, VOR503SM, and TW200 on the street. If you are sure your top speed limit will be 50mph-ish, then I would think the 310 could wing it... I know my little air cooled XR250 could. But nothing beats a big ol' piston whirling around at a nice, relatively slow piston speed than a smaller piston buzzing along. Is there any chance to do a test ride at a stealership? Or sneaking in on a Husky ride in your parts? The peace of mind a test ride would give you would help make your choice super easy.
Just kidding... sharing a little Thumper Talk wisdom, I'm sure
I don't own a 310 or 449/511, but I do think there is wisdom in going with more displacement when the riding would be mostly street miles. I say this from riding an XR250, KLX400, 640 LC4e, VOR503SM, and TW200 on the street. If you are sure your top speed limit will be 50mph-ish, then I would think the 310 could wing it... I know my little air cooled XR250 could. But nothing beats a big ol' piston whirling around at a nice, relatively slow piston speed than a smaller piston buzzing along. Is there any chance to do a test ride at a stealership? Or sneaking in on a Husky ride in your parts? The peace of mind a test ride would give you would help make your choice super easy.
Already had an XR650L! Too heavy for me--I'm kind of a weight weenie. I've got a 1500 lb. car, a 20 lb. mountain bike, and now a ~285 lb. dual-sport (modded KLX250S, wet weight). The difference in feel from the XR is huge. I do miss the power a little, but honestly, something like the WR250R might be OK if it lost 30 lb. There seems to be a wide range of opinion on just how acceptable Huskies are on the street, but it sounds like a lot of people here like them fine with high enough gearing, even without FI tuning. I guess at this point I need to ride one, as suggested... Thanks for the comments, everyone.
James Patton
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have the TE511, and I don't consider it a dual sport in the usual sense. I bought it so I could occasionally ride it
12 miles to where I usually ride. To town, which is only a couple of mile. It is a race bike with a plate. It belongs in
The woods, a TT track, an enduro, or a hardcore dualsport ride. It holds less than a quart of oil, it requires race bike
Frequency maintenance. Look up the service intervals, these bikes are not KLX250s or WR250Rs. If your looking for a
Race bike with a plate, then these are it. The TE, EPA stuff has to be dealt with, more money. That being said, I
Love my TE, it is perfect for me. If I rode better it could win TT races in my area, or harescrambles etc...
It weighs maybe less than a WR250R, but makes way more power, with great suspension, and lots of other cool stuff
Know what your going to do with it, then just buy what fits.
12 miles to where I usually ride. To town, which is only a couple of mile. It is a race bike with a plate. It belongs in
The woods, a TT track, an enduro, or a hardcore dualsport ride. It holds less than a quart of oil, it requires race bike
Frequency maintenance. Look up the service intervals, these bikes are not KLX250s or WR250Rs. If your looking for a
Race bike with a plate, then these are it. The TE, EPA stuff has to be dealt with, more money. That being said, I
Love my TE, it is perfect for me. If I rode better it could win TT races in my area, or harescrambles etc...
It weighs maybe less than a WR250R, but makes way more power, with great suspension, and lots of other cool stuff
Know what your going to do with it, then just buy what fits.