• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

arrgh. valve shim dilemma..

S

stainlesscycle1

Husqvarna
A Class
so, i couldn't figure out why my bike was backfiring, i went in to check cam timing again, and it appears the shim had fallen outta left side exhaust valve cup. needless to say the rocker smashed the valve cup enough to not allow a shim to fit (i found the shim laying in the head..) anyway to swap the valve cup out without pulling the head? (i assume the answer is no... don't know how i'd compress the spring enough to pull the keepers...and even if i did, re-installing in the bike would just suck.) i doubt that i can 're-shape' the valve cup to get a shim to fit..it's only a coupla thousands of smashing, but it's enough..

so anyways, i see there are 3 different head gasket thicknesses - i assume to increase compression - should i just get the thinnest one - or what? i'm guessing i might as well replace the valves as well when i'm in there...
 
Place piston at TDC and apply shop air in spark plug hole. Should be able to remove valve spring and related parts.
 
Ruffus;24105 said:
Valve spring compression tool is way it's done on cars, I'm guessing the same method works on bikes, just a different size?

http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/motorcycle/AMR038E-1.htm
Click to expand...

Those only work with the head off... he is trying to replace the spring cap without pulling the head.

For removal without using the spring compressor my friend (ASE master tech) always uses a socket and hammer... He pops the top of the spring cap and the retainers will pop out. He does that even with the head removed because it was faster than using the clumsy tool when working with 16 valve heads... For him time is money.

For reassembly I have heard of people filling the cylinder with soft rope and running the piston up against the rope to hold the valves, never tried it myself. I am not sure how you would compress the spring to get the retainers back in though, might take a couple extra hands... :excuseme:

If it was mine I would just pull the head off.

Later,
 
yep, i pulled the head. i thought it would clear the frame, but i had to semi-pull the motor to pull the head (head does not clear frame...). i have valves out already, and am swapping new ones in on friday... i have a ohv valve spring compressor i thought i could sneak in there, but it wouldn't clear. so i pulled it and used the regular old valve spring compressor..
 
another question..

do i just put piston at tdc when i align the cam chain - i know the 2 dots on the idler line up with the 'v', but is there a dot on the cam chain crank gear to line up? i'd really like to not install it 180 out...
 
stainlesscycle1;24122 said:
another question..
do i just put piston at tdc when i align the cam chain - i know the 2 dots on the idler line up with the 'v', but is there a dot on the cam chain crank gear to line up? i'd really like to not install it 180 out...
Click to expand...

since your question was unanswered- I'll bump it up- and throw what I can think of at the wall

but don't take my word for it I haven't had a husky apart- but if the piston is at tdc- what should make it the right TDC is that the valves are set to their marks that would be tdc. SO you can make either tdc- the right one with correct set up of your chain-cams...

the only thing- I can think of is on another bike I own (ktmrfs) the flywheel had a landing on it that lined up with the pulser coil when it was tdc- I don't know has any- extra- indicators of tdc like that...

if you figured this out let us know how it goes:thumbsup:
 
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