• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Anyone running a larger tank and Dyna-Ring 2010 WR125

MyRCRocks

Husqvarna
B Class
If so, what tank are you running?
Any complaints? How does it fit? What's the capacity and what do you get miles/tankful?
Thoughts on the Dyna-ring?

Thanks in advance...
 
Tim Troffer on this site has a Dyna Ring in his 125 soon to be 167
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I am running the IMS 2.9 (actual 2.85gal) tank on my WR150. Good for 50 miles, racing conditions.
 
I'm also running the IMS tank. I had to melt the front to get it to fit with my GPR stabilizer. My seat is also a bear to get on now. But the extra capacity was worth the extra trouble.
 
I'm running the IMS also. Does not hit the motosportz stabilizer, crossover disconnect is nice, I think the tank changes shape depending on temps; one day the rad shrouds will fit in the slot, the next day they won't. Watch the front tank mounting bolt. It really won't hit bottom and tighten up without getting into the plastic. I run some small spacer type washers under the bolt so about the same time I hit plastic it tightens up metal to metal to the post. Andy can get 2 1/2 hours at race pace with 4-5'' left over; milage? don't know. Lawn, I took a Dremel grinding burr to the seat pan, fits a lot better now. The pan hits the downcurve on the back of the tank not letting it got all the way foward. Take the side plates off, get a flashlight and a thin piece of cardboard cut off your Wheaties box and see if it will slide between the two...If not; good spot to Dremel and sand. I relieved all of the other connection spots on the pan also...tank bolt slot, frame tab slots...It sounded like the dentist office! But it slides into place almost like stock...
 
The pan plastic hits the rear of tank plastic. Some seat tank combos require a soft but firm (i.e.plastic spatula/platic wedge) to put between raer fender and baclk of seat to give some "coaxing" to get seat fowrd. I say plstic as using a scrwdriver or pry bar can tear seat cover.
As mentioned it is the raer tank against seat pan. Not perfect. DO NOT grind anything from tank. A little prying up (not even an 1/8 inch) of the tabs on the subframe helps too. If you have to grind alittle off the vertical edge of the seat pan, it is ok. The situation gets better as the seat seats in. It also helps to leave the front tank bolt out until the seat is on on install then snug it down and forget it. This leaves the tank as fowrd as will allow. Have seen some with tougher fit to no problems. I even trieed my seat from my 310 (same seat as 125) and it is tougher....go figure.
Ther is the stock husky 1.8 gallon and the husky oversize like on 2010/1 models but it is like 2.1 galons and that .3 gallons is so negligible it was ridiculous....to retool for that little gain by the factory.
Also, another reason I am a W.E.R. dampener fan....does not mount up top and have never had an issue with its fitment on like 9 different bikes since I got it in 1992!

Joe
 
Like Joe said, and I want to make clear also if I didn't...ALL the burr grinding/sanding I did was with a very light touch and on the seat pan only! NOT the Tank!

I hope that's clear. Have a great day!
 
Ther is the stock husky 1.8 gallon and the husky oversize like on 2010/1 models but it is like 2.1 galons and that .3 gallons is so negligible it was ridiculous....to retool for that little gain by the factory.

I know, how confusing is that****************************************
 
I know, how confusing is that****************************************

I thought the tank capacity on the 2010 FI bikes was 1.5 gallons... Making the jump to 2.1 over a half gallon increase. That fuel pump takes up to much room.
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I know on the WR125's the tank measured out to 1.8 gallons stock and 2.4 on the 2011 tanks.

Seems worth while to me.

Later,
 
I'm running the IMS tank and in addition to the fitment issues already mentioned I had to drill out the fuel petcock hole to get it to fit. I also noticed last weekend that the metal fitting on the bottom of the tank on the right side is leaking.
 
Slo...I called IMS about our loose, but not yet leaking, metal elbows for the cross-over tube. They are threaded in. It may be possible to put one more turn on it, or take it out rewrap it with teflon tape and reinsert. I actually put one more turn on ours. I'm pretty sure standard teflon tape is what they are using.

They said there is a lot of thread in the plastic and a good finger tightening should work.
 
I get over 50 miles on the 2011 tank on the WR150. I also have a dyna ring and love it. I see that Rekluse is now offering this style auto clutch.
 
Thanks for the tip pahusky. It was weeping just enough to collect some dust and turn it into mud, so I gave it another turn. That didn't solve it so yesterday I took it apart and put about 4 wraps of teflon tape on it. If that doesn't do the trick I'll hit it with some Seal All.
 
I just bought an 09 wr 125/144 oem kitted. I have the Dynaring installed. It works good , a little different than my rekluse equipped wr300 . I think it is more the power out put differences of the motors than the clutch. I like the back shifting of the dynaring better. On the rekluse I think the engagement is better. I have the 3 gallon ims tank, it fits pretty good, other than the seat is tight to get on. I rode 55 miles on Sunday and still had a little gas left. I have been working on the jetting (keihin 38/RB plate) and I think it is getting really close. I should have my CR ignition on next week, Iam really interested to see how it runs with that installed. All of this work is leading up to installing my Uptite 167, I should have it in about 2 weeks. I wanted to get all this other stuff sorted out on a good running motor before I installed the 167 so I wasnt chasing it all over.

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Can't wait
 
Wow, a CW167R...I can't wait!
If you have any questions/problems with the IMS tank give them a call.
I ended up talking to the guy that puts the insert elbows in..he was not aware of some people having to drill for the petcock.
I also found out the little green o-ring in the disconnect is very special. Made of something called 'Viton'...they sell them but you may be able to find one local, not real sure of the size. I would like to have a spare...supposedly standard o-rings don't hold up well against the new gas additives. In a pinch you could take the disconnect out and splice straight across.
 
I noticed my o ring had a little nick in it but it isn't leaking. I've been really careful with it but I guess not careful enough. Guess I'll have to call IMS and order a "special" one.
 
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