• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Anyone put a Smart carb on their bike?

I've been using the Smart Carb since 2013 exclusively on all my bikes. When I was rebuilding my 1986 430 Auto I got my first Smart Carb, I was looking for clean running carb that comes down to a nice idle immediately which is very important on the Auto. For the first two years I was swapping it back and forth with my 2009 WR300 without changing any settings, that really impressed me the most. All the claims on their web site are true. I haven't adjusted anything after the initial setup.
The best thing it does is make the power more linear because it has only one circuit, no overlapping circuits of a conventional carb. The next best feature is that there is no popping or surging upon deceleration. Even after a long downhill with the throttle closed the whole way, even for several minutes. When you get back on the power it is right there ready and clean.

I would never go back to a regular carb EVER.

Disclaimer: on the website there is a tuning guide and starting procedure compiled by a third party that is a regular on KTMtalk, it is important to thoroughly understand and follow it, you have to forget everything you have ever learned about jetting a conventional carb. Once you do that, starting is first or second kick hot or cold, and flawless running.

They are expensive, but worth every penny. On my WR300 where at some races I used to have to refuel to get 2-1/2 hours on the stock 10 litre tank(specs say 9.5 litres but holds 10). At most hare scrambles races my class usually runs about 2 hours and 15 minutes and with the Smart Carb after the race I routinely have 4+ litres left. I have been recording my fuel economy for 10 years now on a spreadsheet with data from over 60 races. First with the stock Mikuni then a Keihin PWK and finally the Smart Carb. All races since 2010 on the same bike, so the data is very comparable. I compared consumption as litres/hour. An average season running the PWK I averaged 3.46 L/h. A season running the Smart Carb I averaged 2.88 L/h. That relates to about 20% improved fuel consumption. If interested I could send you the spreadsheet. I no longer have to worry about fuel stops or the dreaded oversized tank. I have even extrapolated out that at some races I could have gone 3:45hrs before running out of fuel at race pace. And all this great fuel savings with increased performance to boot.

I'm not trying to sell you on the Smart Carb, I am in no way linked with the company. I paid full price for the three carb I now have. I am just very impressed with everything it has to offer, I see it as a competitive advantage. It gives me a very response bike without having to refuel.

Do your our research if you are considering it, lots of info on other brand specific forums and TT as well.

Braaaaap,

Paul.
 
so what is the advantage of the smart carb over a lectron? the benefits you describe are similar to what ive noticed
 
They were developed by the same inventor: Red Edmonston. The Lectron is from the early 70's and the rights were sold off long ago, and they haven't changed much. A power jet circuit was later added and that is where that carb is today.

16681827_1709641155993107_8412478021617012288_n.jpg

Corey Dyess worked under Red Edmonston to develop the Smart Carb.
The main differences is that the Smart Carb has no external venting and therefore no need for a power jet circuit because the float bowl is pressurized forcing more fuel up the rod as air velocity and engine speed increase.
 

Attachments

The biggest benefit is: it is self compensating to changes in temperature, altitude and other changes in air density. This is accomplished by the fact that the current air conditions are what is pressurizing the float bowl. Also no fuel is ever lost through vent tubes, it's a sealed system, another reason for better fuel economy.
 
They were developed by the same inventor: Red Edmonston. The Lectron is from the early 70's and the rights were sold off long ago, and they haven't changed much. A power jet circuit was later added and that is where that carb is today.

16681827_1709641155993107_8412478021617012288_n.jpg

Corey Dyess worked under Red Edmonston to develop the Smart Carb.
The main differences is that the Smart Carb has no external venting and therefore no need for a power jet circuit because the float bowl is pressurized forcing more fuel up the rod as air velocity and engine speed increase.


good explanation, thanks
 
Can't fault my lectron.
Seams like this guy knew what he was doing.
Has anyone back to back comparison between lectron and smart carb.
 
so what is the advantage of the smart carb over a lectron? the benefits you describe are similar to what ive noticed

Just remembered, the only adjustment that may be needed other than idle is raising or lower the metering rod which can be done on the Smart Carb externally with the carb on the bike in about 30 seconds. The Lectron I think you have to pull out the slide.With the Smart Carb this only needs to be adjusted on initial setup, then forget about any more adjustments. Even engine mods don't affect the initial settings. The Smart Carb focuses on get the fuel-air ratio right and that's it, if the engine wants a bigger charge of this mixture that's fine, the ratio is still maintained.

The Lectron is also a very good carb, that is definitely a step up from a conventional carb.

I think on the Technology Elevated (Smart Carb) facebook page there is a link to an independent dyno test showing a fuel to air ratio graph along side of the power curve. It compares several carbs including the Smart Carb and the Lectron.
 
thanks for the explanations!
my main gripe with the lectron is the "slide feel"...the lightweight slide is also not super smooth...wish they had a nice chrome plated brass unit for that smooth feel!
 
At $450? I think I'll pass. I'm hard of hearing so I just purchased a hand held tach so I can adjust the balance screw better on the standard mikuni carbs. Once the pilot jet and the balance screw is inbetween 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns out your low end is set. Make sure your float level is set and your needle and seat is sealing off the gas flow. The law of averages I'm seeing is to just replace the needle and seat and forget about it. Put the needle clip in the middle position. Now adjust your main jet. Till it's blubbery then back off till it's running clean. Adjust your needle next. Then check your balance screw. You can smoothout the bottom transfer with the balance screw just to tweek it. Remember getting it jetted correctly the first 90% is easy that last 10% is tougher but you will learn it. Don't forget to install the UFO.
 
@Palito, thanx for the info.
Hmmm now that could work with a pressurised intake.
Thinking singleshock 500, piped and with helluva ramair scoop...now that should turn out real fast
 
At $450? I think I'll pass. I'm hard of hearing so I just purchased a hand held tach so I can adjust the balance screw better on the standard mikuni carbs. Once the pilot jet and the balance screw is inbetween 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns out your low end is set. Make sure your float level is set and your needle and seat is sealing off the gas flow. The law of averages I'm seeing is to just replace the needle and seat and forget about it. Put the needle clip in the middle position. Now adjust your main jet. Till it's blubbery then back off till it's running clean. Adjust your needle next. Then check your balance screw. You can smoothout the bottom transfer with the balance screw just to tweek it. Remember getting it jetted correctly the first 90% is easy that last 10% is tougher but you will learn it. Don't forget to install the UFO.

$ounds $imple enough, I guess I paid $450 to have all that looked after. Now I'm out riding instead of fiddling with a bunch of brass and voodoo guess work on initial setup then every time conditions change. Like the old Fram filter commercial says: "pay me now or pay me later".
I just what to ride.

Paul.
 
@Palito, thanx for the info.
Hmmm now that could work with a pressurised intake.
Thinking singleshock 500, piped and with helluva ramair scoop...now that should turn out real fast

I been wanting to try a pressurized air box. Get a throttle cable that has the oil injector cable and connect it to a reastat bad spelling sorry. Small mili amp muffin fan?

I enjoy fiddling with the carb.
 
At $450? I think I'll pass. I'm hard of hearing so I just purchased a hand held tach so I can adjust the balance screw better on the standard mikuni carbs. Once the pilot jet and the balance screw is inbetween 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns out your low end is set. Make sure your float level is set and your needle and seat is sealing off the gas flow. The law of averages I'm seeing is to just replace the needle and seat and forget about it. Put the needle clip in the middle position. Now adjust your main jet. Till it's blubbery then back off till it's running clean. Adjust your needle next. Then check your balance screw. You can smoothout the bottom transfer with the balance screw just to tweek it. Remember getting it jetted correctly the first 90% is easy that last 10% is tougher but you will learn it. Don't forget to install the UFO.
do you just copy and paste your responses from one thing to another now? we dont need jetting lessons. please stop spamming us about the damn ufo insert. we have heard about it 20 times.
we are trying to discuss smart carbs in this thread..
 
do you just copy and paste your responses from one thing to another now? we dont need jetting lessons. please stop spamming us about the damn ufo insert. we have heard about it 20 times.
we are trying to discuss smart carbs in this thread..

I like what Bill has to say, he obviously has had a lot of experience and is worth listening to.
:)
 
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